anto44
Member
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- 1,924
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- ireland
Was often tempted to write out a post of all the curse words I could think of and see what ones do and don't pass, mods probably wouldn't be impressed by the post if I did though
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 13,515
- Location
- France, Brittany.
Do it in a pm that way you'll know, try hurling rude words at me in a pm, then we'll know what passes.
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
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- 13,269
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
I got some new shocks for the Surf last week and fitted them on Sunday.
Nice pair of pre assembled Pedders struts, top mounts and standard length springs.
.
The old ones got an advisory for rust on the last MOT and as I'd already done the rears I thought I'd treat the old truck!
The job was supposed to be an easy one ! The only trouble I thought I would have was poping the bottom ball joints out but they both came out after only 8 precision wacks each with the club hammer...
The problem I did have was getting one of the 14mm nuts off the top mount on the drivers side, took over an hour of swearing and grinding to get it free, all 3 on this side were slightly rounded off before I started compared to the other side that was fine. Naturally it was the one at the back I couldn't get at with a socket or proper sized grinder.
Anyway it's all done now and the front of the truck is now about 3" higher than it was!
The old ones had seen better days....
Nice pair of pre assembled Pedders struts, top mounts and standard length springs.
.The old ones got an advisory for rust on the last MOT and as I'd already done the rears I thought I'd treat the old truck!
The job was supposed to be an easy one ! The only trouble I thought I would have was poping the bottom ball joints out but they both came out after only 8 precision wacks each with the club hammer...
The problem I did have was getting one of the 14mm nuts off the top mount on the drivers side, took over an hour of swearing and grinding to get it free, all 3 on this side were slightly rounded off before I started compared to the other side that was fine. Naturally it was the one at the back I couldn't get at with a socket or proper sized grinder.
Anyway it's all done now and the front of the truck is now about 3" higher than it was!
The old ones had seen better days....
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,501
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
lister engine reassembled with new gaskets (for the most part)
it (is supposed to) has copper rings as head gaskets.... it certainly didn't have any when I stripped it. and that is the only reason I had to buy a whole engine gasket kit.... there was only one gasket otherwise that I would have had to make, a paper gasket I would have made from a Kellogg's box.
but as i had them, I fitted new valve cover gaskets and new injector cover gaskets, and will be fitting new intake and exhaust gaskets when i get that far.
I mostly only built it up to keep any dirt out of it.
it (is supposed to) has copper rings as head gaskets.... it certainly didn't have any when I stripped it. and that is the only reason I had to buy a whole engine gasket kit.... there was only one gasket otherwise that I would have had to make, a paper gasket I would have made from a Kellogg's box.
but as i had them, I fitted new valve cover gaskets and new injector cover gaskets, and will be fitting new intake and exhaust gaskets when i get that far.
I mostly only built it up to keep any dirt out of it.
Melvyn Best
Member
- Messages
- 1,833
- Location
- Cambridge
Try typing " screw in tyre " on an MOT advisory . comes up as something like profanity not allowed ! You can have a nail in tyre though
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,481
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
Try typing hairy nail and see what happens
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 13,515
- Location
- France, Brittany.
Good use of dead extinguisher.
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,481
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
Now that's good
James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,418
- Location
- Orkney
Glad it wasn’t just me....
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,501
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
a few more picslister engine reassembled with new gaskets (for the most part)
it (is supposed to) has copper rings as head gaskets.... it certainly didn't have any when I stripped it. and that is the only reason I had to buy a whole engine gasket kit.... there was only one gasket otherwise that I would have had to make, a paper gasket I would have made from a Kellogg's box.
but as i had them, I fitted new valve cover gaskets and new injector cover gaskets, and will be fitting new intake and exhaust gaskets when i get that far.
I mostly only built it up to keep any dirt out of it.
Good choice. Though i am biased!
Got your moneys worth from the lower bushes. Im sure you know, but make sure you do up the bolts through those bushes at ride height. They have a LOT of work to do and are very much the weak point of the design.
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
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- 13,269
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
I don't think they did badly for a set of 25 year old shocks!
I did tighten the lower bolts after dropping it back on it's wheels and giving it a bit few bounces.
Mr Fro
Member
- Messages
- 505
- Location
- Bury st Edmunds-ish
Remember this nasty old thing?
I had a bit if time spare so had a look. It was rusted solid after living outside for some time but astonishingly it came apart fairly easily and all the internals were like new.
I cleaned it all up, de-reusted everything, lubed it and bunged it back together.
I'm really happy with the end result - the tilt mechanism is a bit on the heavy side but I can live with it.
qIt turns out it's a Marcello Marini, made in Italy (I'd never heard of them either).
I've just got to wait for the last couple of bits to de-rustify then cobble a chuck and back plate together.
I had a bit if time spare so had a look. It was rusted solid after living outside for some time but astonishingly it came apart fairly easily and all the internals were like new.
I cleaned it all up, de-reusted everything, lubed it and bunged it back together.
I'm really happy with the end result - the tilt mechanism is a bit on the heavy side but I can live with it.
qIt turns out it's a Marcello Marini, made in Italy (I'd never heard of them either).
I've just got to wait for the last couple of bits to de-rustify then cobble a chuck and back plate together.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,326
- Location
- Going Away.
Busy day yesterday.
Finished a few bits, started a few bits and had fun.
Made bread, twice. First loaf did not last very long.
The chief idea was to try out some restoration methods to see if they can be used in MIS.
The plan was to see if a stage could be completed in the time span of a session.
First through my hands.
The block plane was complete, but in need of some TLC
The main body was dirty and had some rust on it. The cap and locking screw was very rusty. The sawdust had absorbed moisture.
Cleaned the sawdust out and treated the rust with a Over the counter rust remover.
The company were very kind and supplied a H&S data sheet and a A4 size picture on the stages. Saved me a bit of work.
The body was cleaned up with wet and dry 1000 grit stapled to a suitable size MDF.
A bee's wax and linseed oil was used as a lubricant.
The blade was sharpened on a oil stone.
The above method will allow the MIS to restore that sort of tool in a session.
The next was the Stanley Hand drill in the top picture.
Striped down.
The killer on those drills is the springs in the chuck. If they are worn missing or broken then the cost of replacement makes it pointless to restore.
Another point if to much force or force applied in the wrong place in stripping the chuck, it will deform and render the drill useless.
Some one in the past has glued both handles on, removing them would break them.
If they are removed a few minutes in a lathe will clean them up. You want a smooth finish.
This time a cabinet scraper was used. Good handles are beech.
Restored to a good usable tool.
MIS have to be careful. Repainting will eat into time and reduce the amount of money they could make.
This way they have a tool to use, to swop or sell.
This plough plane was used to prove that a "dead tool" can be restored to a condition that would allow it to be used, swop or sold.
But.......
Yes the corner has broken off.
If the sole of the plane is involved in the break it renders a cheep repair pointless.
It can be done, but it cost in time and effort.
In this case the sole was un-damaged, so a 5 minute glue was used.
Meths. and wire wool was sued to clean the body up.
The blade was ground and sharpened on a hand cranked wet stone. Why?
@Cus we have one, we haven't done it that way before.
The Burr on the top of the blade was dressed back with a file.
Turns out the plane is a Marples. Blades in different sizes can be found.
The blade shows the rust pitting.
But the tool works.
Finished a few bits, started a few bits and had fun.
Made bread, twice. First loaf did not last very long.
The chief idea was to try out some restoration methods to see if they can be used in MIS.
The plan was to see if a stage could be completed in the time span of a session.
First through my hands.
The block plane was complete, but in need of some TLC
The main body was dirty and had some rust on it. The cap and locking screw was very rusty. The sawdust had absorbed moisture.
Cleaned the sawdust out and treated the rust with a Over the counter rust remover.
The company were very kind and supplied a H&S data sheet and a A4 size picture on the stages. Saved me a bit of work.
The body was cleaned up with wet and dry 1000 grit stapled to a suitable size MDF.
A bee's wax and linseed oil was used as a lubricant.
The blade was sharpened on a oil stone.
The above method will allow the MIS to restore that sort of tool in a session.
The next was the Stanley Hand drill in the top picture.
Striped down.
The killer on those drills is the springs in the chuck. If they are worn missing or broken then the cost of replacement makes it pointless to restore.
Another point if to much force or force applied in the wrong place in stripping the chuck, it will deform and render the drill useless.
Some one in the past has glued both handles on, removing them would break them.
If they are removed a few minutes in a lathe will clean them up. You want a smooth finish.
This time a cabinet scraper was used. Good handles are beech.
Restored to a good usable tool.
MIS have to be careful. Repainting will eat into time and reduce the amount of money they could make.
This way they have a tool to use, to swop or sell.
This plough plane was used to prove that a "dead tool" can be restored to a condition that would allow it to be used, swop or sold.
But.......
Yes the corner has broken off.
If the sole of the plane is involved in the break it renders a cheep repair pointless.
It can be done, but it cost in time and effort.
In this case the sole was un-damaged, so a 5 minute glue was used.
Meths. and wire wool was sued to clean the body up.
The blade was ground and sharpened on a hand cranked wet stone. Why?
@Cus we have one, we haven't done it that way before.
The Burr on the top of the blade was dressed back with a file.
Turns out the plane is a Marples. Blades in different sizes can be found.
The blade shows the rust pitting.
But the tool works.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,326
- Location
- Going Away.
Got this lump the other day.
It was solid.
Not even the priming screw would loosen.
So. I fired up the music, made more coffee and dug out the hot spanner.
That got the nuts, bolts and the handle free.
This image does not show the work that went into getting the face plate off.
Two stages.
Stage One, was the pull the plate so far, as shown.
Stage 2.
Then pulling the brass gland sealing.
There was deaths in the dismantling.
If they didn't die before they are dead now.
The spider made an early bid for freedom.
The de-rusting removed the rust. But the old paint came to light.
It was then passed through the hot caustic to remove it.
There are four flap valves inside. They have no seals, but rely on the surfaces being flat and the water pressure to make the seal.
The surfaces are flat, but cast onto a curve surface.
Making a wood block from scrap hard wood allowed me to uses 800 grit wet and dry to make the surfaces.
There is before and after.
Rebuild.
The flapper valve RHS is fixed onto a brass peg. There is a leather strip seal between that and the butterfly shaft.
The handle was cleaned on a lathe, re-stained and French polished.
You don't want a smooth finish, but a smooth to rough. This allows a frim grip that will not through your hand off.
Finished
Only one nut and bolt was usable. The rest the metal moth had done for the other 3.
On the hunt for the 2 pipe flanges now.
well.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,326
- Location
- Going Away.
I even found time, between coffee to clean this up as well.
Now filled with a light grease.
To be used on MIS power tools fitted with grease nipples.
Now filled with a light grease.
To be used on MIS power tools fitted with grease nipples.
