MattF
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- South Yorkshire
What's its serial no.? Should be stamped on the metal ring at the rear of the body.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
What's its serial no.? Should be stamped on the metal ring at the rear of the body.
OJCar
Member
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- 2,508
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- Lothian & Westmorland
A Hack Knife is your friend there !
This sort of thing
https://footprint-tools.com/product/hacking-knife/
https://www.screwfix.com/p/faithfull-fixed-hacking-knife-4-5-/613hl £12
Don't be afraid of having a go at putty glazing, it is actually really easy to go once you get into it.
Bed of putty, glass in, pins or proper triangles if you can get them to hold the glass, thumb in putty, smooth with knife, clean up.
So simple even I can do it !
New kingpost and carriage finally back on the JCB after stripping the splines the other week.
Had to use the press to get them all together with the new bushes in. 18tons in the end. Lot tighter in the back now.
Few seals to do still but they can wait for better weather.
Autumn well and truly arrived today with the fog..
Had to use the press to get them all together with the new bushes in. 18tons in the end. Lot tighter in the back now.
Few seals to do still but they can wait for better weather.
Autumn well and truly arrived today with the fog..
Paulbarrett
Member
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- 1,103
- Location
- Northampton
It has that. I’ll check it tomorrow
Blobber
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- 3,350
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- lincolnshire
Last time I used putty for glazing was about 8 years ago, it just didn't seem the same as the stuff we used to use when the guy behind the counter dug it out of a big box
Did you buy the king post complete, or use a repair kit?New kingpost and carriage finally back on the JCB after stripping the splines the other week.
Had to use the press to get them all together with the new bushes in. 18tons in the end. Lot tighter in the back now.
Few seals to do still but they can wait for better weather.
Autumn well and truly arrived today with the fog..
View attachment 463570
Last time I had to re putty a window it was a rush job that had to be painted immediately. So instead of putty I used some P38 filler that I was using to fill holes in the window frame caused by rot.
It worked really well, filled the bead up, smoothed as best as I could with a filling knife then finished with a sander when dry.
At the time I thought it wouldn't last but it is still perfect several years on.
New kingpost pin, refurbished carriage then bush kit for the kingpost itself. Not cheap but easier and quicker than trying to find someone to remachine the old carriage.
This time it was the turn of the Halfords 2.5 ton Trolley Jack
I needed this the other day to support the lower end of the Ford 4000 spindles that I rebuilt but it was still sitting on the shelf where I'd thrown it in disgust several years ago when it let me down. A long time ago and pre-covid I can't even remember what I was jacking up, but it was more than it could cope with, and the pair of side frames bent like bananas !
So I thought I'd dismantle it and see if I could beat them back to shape on the anvil.l No chance, too springy and I didn't want to heat them in the forge or I'd lose what ever properties the steel had. So I asked my 60 ton Epco garage press for a bit of help. Worked a charm, a few judicious squashes and what was previously a banana shape began to look much more civilized.
Putting it all back together all seems well. I'd not trust it to work under, but then you should never work under an item only supported by a trolley jack.
No 'before' pictures I'm afraid, I forgot !
I needed this the other day to support the lower end of the Ford 4000 spindles that I rebuilt but it was still sitting on the shelf where I'd thrown it in disgust several years ago when it let me down. A long time ago and pre-covid I can't even remember what I was jacking up, but it was more than it could cope with, and the pair of side frames bent like bananas !
So I thought I'd dismantle it and see if I could beat them back to shape on the anvil.l No chance, too springy and I didn't want to heat them in the forge or I'd lose what ever properties the steel had. So I asked my 60 ton Epco garage press for a bit of help. Worked a charm, a few judicious squashes and what was previously a banana shape began to look much more civilized.
Putting it all back together all seems well. I'd not trust it to work under, but then you should never work under an item only supported by a trolley jack.
No 'before' pictures I'm afraid, I forgot !
RobCox
Member
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- 524
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- Cambridge, UK
It's taken more than a day to complete this, but I've finished degreasing, wire wheeling, paint spraying and reassembling this nice little "Ixion" pillar drill. To say this thing is vintage is an understatement - it has been in my parents' shed for as long as I can remember and probably belonged to my step-grandfather before that, so I'm guessing it's 70-80 years old. It looked like this a week ago:
It now looks a bit tidier, having been stripped into component parts, degreased (ugh!) and tarted up including a nice new beechwood handle:
I only found out how the feed mechanism worked a week ago! The spindle is driven by the handle and the flywheel at the top is driven by a 10tpi ACME thread off the top of the spindle. If the flywheel rotates slower than the spindle, the spindle feeds down and an adjustable plunger resisting flywheel rotation sets the downward drill pressure, so it self-feeds down with constant drilling pressure.
It now looks a bit tidier, having been stripped into component parts, degreased (ugh!) and tarted up including a nice new beechwood handle:
I only found out how the feed mechanism worked a week ago! The spindle is driven by the handle and the flywheel at the top is driven by a 10tpi ACME thread off the top of the spindle. If the flywheel rotates slower than the spindle, the spindle feeds down and an adjustable plunger resisting flywheel rotation sets the downward drill pressure, so it self-feeds down with constant drilling pressure.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
They are great drill.
I have a few myself.
I know a grumpy human who has a few gathering dust.
I feel your pain - when the splines stripped on the driven plate for no apparent reason on my own1150GS....
Gragson
Member
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- Bucks
Folks house, couple of jobs, first garage door which one of the sprung arm plates had come away along with some channel and angle (ancient door in dangerous state so priority) Had a look before, took compressor air riveter and kitchen sink thinking it would be an ass of a job, half hour on the job all SS riveted up, jobs good.
Next kitchen draw fronts come off, Brum make, what a total PITA to work out how to release the captured screw brackets to attach to the draw front via a hidden release mech, clever but the designer wants flogging - 2 hours to put 4 screws in - easy WHEN you know how I guess..
No fuming pics I'm afraid
Next kitchen draw fronts come off, Brum make, what a total PITA to work out how to release the captured screw brackets to attach to the draw front via a hidden release mech, clever but the designer wants flogging - 2 hours to put 4 screws in - easy WHEN you know how I guess..
No fuming pics I'm afraid
I did a 2001 R1150R clutch for a mate (stripped splines). I'd not done one before, but had (have) a Haynes manual.
I ignored the steps though to remove the shaft drive & swing arm, and just split & separated thr engine & gearbox.... a bit like splitting a tractor.
Maybe not the recommended practice, but it worked fine & cut a fair chunk of time & aggro. IIRC I left the rear wheel on, and jacked/chocked under the 'box & just moved it back enough to swap out the clutch.
(I seem to recall aligning the clutch by doing up the bolts just tight enough for the pressure plate to grip the clutch plate, then wiggling the box on to align it. I then tightened the pressure plate bolts through the starter motor aperture).
