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They are just Extra Load car tyres, not van tyres.
Yes, they are OK for an MGF and are about the best of the bunch at the moment.
- Thread starter Wozzaaah
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Yes, they are OK for an MGF and are about the best of the bunch at the moment.
dobbslc
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Another thought, scraping the bottom of the barrel now but...
On the Toyta Aygo, Peugeot 106 Citroen C1 a lot of people have had trouble with the steering due to a duff battery. They have enough power to start the car and everything else works fine but the steering doesn't like it.
Has the MGF been sat around unused during our lovely spring/early summer and the battery gone flat?
On the Toyta Aygo, Peugeot 106 Citroen C1 a lot of people have had trouble with the steering due to a duff battery. They have enough power to start the car and everything else works fine but the steering doesn't like it.
Has the MGF been sat around unused during our lovely spring/early summer and the battery gone flat?
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Brand new battery fitted last year but it is definitely NOT a power steering fault.
qwakers
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i think you're discounting it because it isn't the 'usual' fault. having been in the trade you know there are occasional outliers.
if you've checked the geometry and there are no anomalies suggesting something is bent, then it MUST be a epas issue.
i recently had a customer come in with a similar issue to yours. after running through the usual diagnosis and a bit of lateral thinking i drove it whilst recording the steering angle sensors readings. it turns out the sas was a long way out of calibration. the result of this is it wasn't meeting any of the reference values, so it was doing some really funky stuff. the clipped notes version is if you put left steering input (for instance) it would behave normally until you want to straighten up, where it would continue a slight assistance to the left until you passed the centre point and then it would switch to assisting to the right. the end result is as the wheels got near the centre point the natural centring action wasn't enough to overcome the slight assistance in which ever direction the wheels are turned.
weird as hell, but after a manual recalibration in forscan it was fine. turns out the rack had been replaced and the calibration never done. because it was so far out of spec the usual issue of slightly heavier in one direction was transformed to always assisting in whatever direction was last commanded.
ok so it wasnt a mg but....
if you've checked the geometry and there are no anomalies suggesting something is bent, then it MUST be a epas issue.
i recently had a customer come in with a similar issue to yours. after running through the usual diagnosis and a bit of lateral thinking i drove it whilst recording the steering angle sensors readings. it turns out the sas was a long way out of calibration. the result of this is it wasn't meeting any of the reference values, so it was doing some really funky stuff. the clipped notes version is if you put left steering input (for instance) it would behave normally until you want to straighten up, where it would continue a slight assistance to the left until you passed the centre point and then it would switch to assisting to the right. the end result is as the wheels got near the centre point the natural centring action wasn't enough to overcome the slight assistance in which ever direction the wheels are turned.
weird as hell, but after a manual recalibration in forscan it was fine. turns out the rack had been replaced and the calibration never done. because it was so far out of spec the usual issue of slightly heavier in one direction was transformed to always assisting in whatever direction was last commanded.
ok so it wasnt a mg but....
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I am discounting it as the EPAS motor is built into the column. I have changed the column. I have also disabled the EPAS system, the fault persists.
If I drive it, give it any slight steering input either way and remove my hands, the wheel simply stays where I put it, there is no other issue.
There is no SAS to calibrate, the only sensor is the torque sensor which detects any steering input and activates the EPAS.
CKJDJK
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Disconnect the lower column both ends. Check ujs and slide. Should be smother no notchieness. Check slide travel is enough to allow full articulation of ujs when installed.
If you can safely. With shaft removed and front wheels turned either way push or drive forward on the flat. Do the wheels centre?
Are the inner track rod ends smooth? Split outer ends and move track rod in all directions.
If you can safely. With shaft removed and front wheels turned either way push or drive forward on the flat. Do the wheels centre?
Are the inner track rod ends smooth? Split outer ends and move track rod in all directions.
Melvyn Best
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What causes a car steering to self center? Castor
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Melvyn Best
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The only other thing I can think of , did you check how easy it is to turn the replacement steering column before fitting it? Any binding in the column will cause problems. I know in one of your early posts you thought the original column was tight/ binding
colnerov
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I reckon he's got all those unused PO elastic bands caught up in the steering
But has he signed for them?
Or toe..
My Master camper conversion had very similar symptoms to what is described (I think anyway).
Steering would not self-centre, & also felt a bit "sticky" like it had tight spots.
I had visions of PAS failing, knackered rack etc. It really felt like something expensive.. but:
Due to van standing a lot while being worked on - I went for the the basic simple option, crossed fingers & figured maybe the steering column UJ under the floor had partially seized/sticky.
A good soaking with Plusgas on the UJ, and a few figure 8's in a local car park effected a dramatic improvement.
Steering would not self-centre, & also felt a bit "sticky" like it had tight spots.
I had visions of PAS failing, knackered rack etc. It really felt like something expensive.. but:
Due to van standing a lot while being worked on - I went for the the basic simple option, crossed fingers & figured maybe the steering column UJ under the floor had partially seized/sticky.
A good soaking with Plusgas on the UJ, and a few figure 8's in a local car park effected a dramatic improvement.
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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I have not read all the posts on the thread, but this is exactly the same problem I had with my Master. Also had it before with the Trafic, which was worse. Dousing the UJs in Bilt Hamber Ferrosol cured them both. I gave the other UJ at the end of the column up behind the dash a few squirts too.
Couldn't believe how much difference it made.
I've not heard of Ferrosol - I must look it up!
Dousing in Plusgas has improved it a lot, but its not 100% and the effects wear off.
It's about £50 & no doubt a royal PITA to swap out the UJ - so Ferrosol sounds worth a try
Update: just ordered a can. For a tenner (plus carriage) it's well worth a try!
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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Yes, the effects of PlusGas do wear off quite quickly, but its the best stuff for freeing things off in the first place.I've not heard of Ferrosol - I must look it up!
Dousing in Plusgas has improved it a lot, but its not 100% and the effects wear off.
It's about £50 & no doubt a royal PITA to swap out the UJ - so Ferrosol sounds worth a try
Update: just ordered a can. For a tenner (plus carriage) it's well worth a try!
I have been using Ferrosol for a few years now, and find it way better than WD40. You must shake the tin though.
ajlelectronics
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prepman
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No..... it''s scrub radius..either positive or negative on a manual rack. It has the effect of raising the car when steering is off centre, so the dwell is the centring force. Castor is fixed by ball joints offset. Scrub radius is a theorectical scribed line caused by the inclination of the steering pivot in the side plane.
What is Scrub Radius? A Guide to Positive, Negative & Zero Scrub Radius | Low Offset
Wondering what is scrub radius and how it affects the handling of your car? Our comprehensive guide has everything you need to know.
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