Steel frame bed

  1. Yamhon

    Yamhon Member

    Messages:
    667
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    Planning on making a steel frame double bed. I'm thinking of using RHS of 60x40x3 dimensions for the long lengths and internally to those weld along the full length some RHS of 50x30x3 upon which wooden slats will rest.

    The bed will need to be able to come apart for transport. The long lengs should be okay in just long sections, perhaps even with legs attached, but I'm not sure how best to attach the front and rear to these long sides.

    I'd like to be able to bolt either with nuts or into a plate on the long sections of RHS with tapped holes, though I'm struggling to understand how I can mate up this joint in the corners without any bolts placing stress and crimping up the hollow sections I'll be using... maybe these joints should just butt up against each other on the external corners and bolt together with plates somehow on the inside underneath where the bed slats will be.

    For the legs I was planning on using some of the RHS, probably 2 pieces set next to each other and these will be welded onto either end of the long sections.

    As anyone made a steel bed frame and could share what they learned doing it or does anyone have any suggestions on how I could best achieve a structure which will be able to be dismantled and then put back together again?

    Thanks.
     
  2. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

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    Flat plate out of sight with bolts into the head/foot. If you make slots rather than holes can loosed the bolts and slide the crossbeams out
     
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  3. The_Yellow_Ardvark

    The_Yellow_Ardvark If in doubt ask. Same rules for everyone

    Messages:
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    A Padded Cell.
    Buy a decent 1950's second hand one, they will be bolted. Will be fit for purpose.

    Add decent hard wood slats.
    Job done.
     
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  4. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

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    westyorkshire
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  5. Yamhon

    Yamhon Member

    Messages:
    667
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
  6. Parm

    Parm I have fun doing stuff

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    I think you’ll be hard pushed to crimp or deform 3mm wall thickness box section with any nuts or bolts

    Plus with that metal it’s gonna be bloody heavy
     
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  7. Yamhon

    Yamhon Member

    Messages:
    667
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    Just want it to be robust. Would 2.5mm be a better choice?
     
  8. Arclikeharrypotter Member

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    1,005
    Location:
    Northampton
    Even 2.5mm could be well over specced. It all depends on the design and where it's to be supported.
     
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  9. Parm

    Parm I have fun doing stuff

    Messages:
    9,394
    Location:
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    Your becoming a true forum member now with all your projects.

    Repair of your drive way.
    Welding some metal bar to some steel.(some kind of bending forming thing)
    Repairing you Stamos welder
    Making return leads
    Learning to use your Clarke
    Studying
    Learning to weld
    Making a welding trolley
    Making a bed frame

    Just stay on top of them all and ensure they don't turn into roundtuit projects

    And do post up some pictures, we love pictures on here
     
  10. Parm

    Parm I have fun doing stuff

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Towcester
    I don't know. There will be more experienced members than I whom can provide a better answer. I just know that 3mm will be heavy but very strong
     
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  11. colnerov

    colnerov Member

    Messages:
    3,187
    Location:
    Nr Gatwick UK
    Hi, I love the way home brew projects turn into Irn-bru ones (made from girders). Personally I think all dimensions are over the top, when you consider that beds were commercially made from angle, albeit spring steel, or 3" x 2" timber and hardboard. I suppose it depends how energetic you're going to be in it.:dontknow:

    Colin
     
  12. Yamhon

    Yamhon Member

    Messages:
    667
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    I'm never sure if you're taking the mickey or not :p

    Got a few other things to fund first; then I'll get some SBR and give it a go.

    Waiting for parts; didn't have the right size round bar or plate in stock, so ordered some off cuts on Ebay. Probably attempting this over the weekend.

    On hold; lower priority now I've got another working MIG, although I do need to test the MMA function when I can prioritize purchasing another electrode holder, binned the supplied one as it was damaged.

    Already done. Have the connections for another one, but waiting till I get a crimper too before doing that one. Thought I had a photo of this, but turns out I don't, will take one this evening.

    Ongoing; probably be the weekend before I get chance to have another go with it.

    Waiting to book my practical sessions; have about 10 days to wait remaining before I can book... oh and 300'ish pages I need to print, ugh.


    Just need more practice. Lost a lot of time waiting for my table before I got started, then building a new return lead after the supplied one broke, dodging really pants whether and a broken welder... oh and waiting for the electrician to wire up the 16a circuit. Now I need to crack on.

    Need to finalise the design and purchase the materials; got a couple of jobs I need to complete first, but might be able to order materials at the same time.

    Came out of the blue after a friends bed collapsed. Need them to decide what type of bed slats they want - apparently there are multiple types, then finish up the design and get started.

    I'll try and post more photos. I don't keep my phone on me when I'm welding or grinding, so sometimes forget or can't be bothered to go into the house and take photos after I've done.
     
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  13. Yamhon

    Yamhon Member

    Messages:
    667
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    Will have a re-think; as I don't have any guidelines to go on, I tend to bias towards over built. Existing bed uses some metal box section which is much smaller than what I had planned to use, and those structures didn't fail, so I could probably do something similar just a bit better.
     
  14. The_Yellow_Ardvark

    The_Yellow_Ardvark If in doubt ask. Same rules for everyone

    Messages:
    10,860
    Location:
    A Padded Cell.
    Hay Mr @Parm

    A man can dream.
    Just some of use know what the difference between a dream and real life.

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUdhaDCvPWY
     
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  15. Parm

    Parm I have fun doing stuff

    Messages:
    9,394
    Location:
    Towcester

    That will be one hell of a bed with metal of that section. Just make sure your welds are good. You don’t want anything collapsing. Others will give proper advice if required.
     
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  16. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    8,483
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    not got to needing a bigger workshop or need more tools yet to fill it up :D
     
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  17. Yamhon

    Yamhon Member

    Messages:
    667
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    This is the return lead I made up awhile back. About 4m of 25mm squared, on a solid bronze clamp. Bit of spatter on it when I was flux core welding close to it.
    20190820_165717.jpg
    After the hammer on crimp failed, I'm waiting to get an hydraulic crimper to finish this trailing socket I'm adding to the below bracket I've made up for the magnetic clamp.
    20190820_170132.jpg

    Just added two quick top coats. Need to improve my rattle can game.
     
    • 20190820_171215.jpg
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  18. Yamhon

    Yamhon Member

    Messages:
    667
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    For new trailing socket, 35-50 Dinse and 1 metre of 50mm squared. 20190820_165941.jpg
     
  19. Parm

    Parm I have fun doing stuff

    Messages:
    9,394
    Location:
    Towcester
    I’ve got a small bit of sacrificial plate on the clamp, very handy for striking an arc with the stick
     
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  20. Parm

    Parm I have fun doing stuff

    Messages:
    9,394
    Location:
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    It doesn’t take long

    Yamhon probably hasn’t started going to car boot markets to collect all those things that one day might become useful
     
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