Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 16,928
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
You can put it where you want, I don't have any prejudices against people with weird habits and traitsFiller in the gob then I assume
You can put it where you want, I don't have any prejudices against people with weird habits and traitsFiller in the gob then I assume
One torch and left hand filling it is then mate.You can put it where you want, I don't have any prejudices against people with weird habits and traits
Yeah I’ve seen it lots of times just like that but mostly on ac once the Tungsten has balled. Dc usually no issues. I was doing some tuition the other weekend and the guy had a new digital rtech. Not a bad machine for the money but it was a terrible striker on a balled tungsten. Needed a little tap on every other strike yet when it did strike it was a strong snap like you say.It is with the sharp tungsten on DC that I get it every now and then, a balled one on AC has not been an issue yet.
When it works, which is 90+% of the time, it really cracks across with a real thump, no crackling sparks like I normally got with the Parweld. When it doesn't work there is absolutely nothing, or at least I don't think there is but with the noise of the fan on this thing I probably wouldn't hear it anyway There are certainly no sparks though, kind of strange one.
Yeah that’s it. You never really know what it’s gonna behave like as they all behave so differently.I will try the new WP18 on DC and see, could also wire up the plug on the SWP one again and see, certainly never had issues with the WP20 torch before but I suppose different machines may need different things.
I am liking the Stealth so far, the fan is a noisy begger but that doesn't really bother me too much as compared to the jet turbine that was in my old Esab mig it is almost silentYeah that’s it. You never really know what it’s gonna behave like as they all behave so differently.
Was doing a bit of stainless today and the arc is as good as if not very slightly better than the Parweld. My stainless welding is still not the best though
Pic of a tank I made up.
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One thing I have found is the HF either shoots the arc across with a crack or it doesn't work and you have to touch the tungsten to the metal then press the trigger again. It is only occasionally that you have to do this but not something I had to do with the Parweld although I remember having to do it now and then with the TecArc.
Yes, just needs a tap on the material and away it goes. Think it is still on 10 seconds post as that was what I had when doing the 12mm Alu to give the tungsten a chance to cool a bit from 300Amps.just scrape the tip on any thing before you hit the button even a wipe across the glove helps (removes oxide )
seems to be a trait on them modern machines old esabs would hf arc over an inch
longer post flow might help
Used the Stealth today for the job I got it to do. Started welding up a davit arm from 3 1/2" Dia x 1/4" wall tube and 12mm thick 5083 for the web. The return lead got very hot so I swapped over to a 50mm² lead. The supplied one is probably only 25mm² and really is far too light for a 320Amp welder.
Took bad Tig welding at 300Amps and the WP18 torch is a bit cumbersome but at least it keeps your hand a bit further away from the heat, still managed to shrink the fingers of the tig glove that was feeding the filler rod
I was at first using the saw wave which I prefer normally but on this thicker stuff I found I preferred the square wave so the second side was done with it.
Overall I am happy with the results but I really need more practice with the big torch and the high currents.
Pics of the job.
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