I'm also after a manual
Easily done from above direct in line with original motor locationMy Arboga is similar in design with regards the motor and if anything did go wrong with it I would find a way of hooking up a standard motor. Shouldn't be too hard as it would just require a slot milled/cut into the housing and a belt to attach an outboard motor.
That would make it very easy then.Easily done from above direct in line with original motor location
A guy from the south coast found this thread and rang me regarding removing the motor on his drill.A bit of a further update. I have now discovered how the shafts come out. I had another look at the top of the machine, removing the large circlips allows the oiler together with a cap to be removed, these were stuck in fairly tight but a bit of wiggling and some WD40 and they came off. This revealed the top of the shafts and yet another circlip. It's clear that the shafts will have to be removed in a certain order and to be able to remove any of the shafts it's first necessary to remove the shifter mechanism as otherwise the shafts cannot move more that the travel of the shifter. I'm still working out how to correctly remove the shifters, they operate as a cranked arm on the end of a shaft and are held to the shaft with a roll pin. The shaft nearest the front of the drill is easy to access and the pin is also easy to access. It's a very different story with the other one - this is on the end of a rod about 6 inches long and the roll pin is inserted on the top of the cranked arm, the problem is that it is at the back (deep inside) the gearbox head and very difficult to get at, I'm making a tool to help to push out the roll pin and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the roll pin isn't too tightly stuck in the shaft. The build quality of this thing is very good, a lot of thought has gone into the design and it fits together very well. Point to note, on the top of the three shafts, in addition to a retaining circlip the central shaft also has shims in place, there are two in this case, I suppose that could vary from machine to machine. Since all this shaft does is hold gears in relative positions and is also held captive by the bearings I wonder why it has the shims in place at all, the gears slide freely on the shaft so why would it be necessary to control the absolute vertical position of the shaft? beats me but I'm sure there's a reason so I'll be refitting the shims when I rebuild. Removing the motor appears straight forward but see point above, you can't do that unless the shifter mechanism is removed since the shaft cannot move far enough downwards. I did wonder if there would be a retaining clip under the oil seal on the top of the motor (where the shaft passes from the motor housing section into the gearbox section, there's an oil seal fitted. I removed the seal (which of course gets destroyed in the process so I will be replacing that) but there is no retaining clip, the motor is held in position by the lower cover (4 Allen screws) which incorporates the lower bearing housing and the top of the shaft is held in position with a circlip as per the other two gear shafts. As far as I have been able to work out the removal sequence is 1) remove the front and rear shifter arms by removing the roll pins. 2) Remove the top cover circlips to reveal the shaft top circlips and note any shims that may appear. With the shifter mech out of the way, the central shaft can be removed - push the shaft upwards (it cannot exit downwards), remove gears from the lower end of the shaft as it passes upwards noting order for reassembly 3) remove motor cover Allen screws and prise off the cover evenly using levers then remove the clip holding this shaft at the top of the machine and then press the shaft downwards - position something under the motor so it doesn't plummet earthwards and damage something also note that it's still connected to the wiring although there appears to be considerable slack in the cables to allow motor removal from the housing. The top gear on the motor shaft is too large to pass through the opening in the motor housing so I assume it must be held by yet another circlip which I can't see yet - need to move the shaft downwards to see the top of the gear. The selector ring that moves the gears slides on the shaft and is controlled by two keys, they in turn are held in position by a collar. I have not yet determined whether the motor armature shaft is in two pieces that are slotted together somehow, I suspect it may well be and I'll report back.
Reassembly should be a reversal of the process with the last items to be fitted being the selector arms and their roll pins. I'm writing this up as I have not been able to find anything anywhere on the internet that shows how to dismantle one of these drills and thought that this information could be useful to others. I'm 100% I'm making some mistakes and if anyone does know better then please jump in and correct me.
Very true, haven't organised pics yet, I'll do a photo "how-to" when it comes to reassembly - dismantling involved getting covered in grease which I didn't then want to get all over the camera.A picture paints a thousand words.
Agree with that partly, rotor will indeed come out although easily isn't exactly the word I would use, it can be done but it's very tricky getting past the selector shift mechanism. Plus you have to remove the top gear from the shaft as it's too large to pass through the engine housing top hole (gear is 60mm, hole is 55mm diameter). In hindsight, I should have removed the gear earlier before trying to get it past the shifter but I need to get a small bearing puller which is why I've stopped play for today, with the gear off then the shaft will clear the shifter without any trouble. The stator is not a press fit, it's held in place with an Allen head threaded stud and a lock nut, I have no need to remove the stator and don't want to have to remove the wiring unless I need to.A guy from the south coast found this thread and rang me regarding removing the motor on his drill.
The rotor will come out no problem, the stator is a press fit into the drill from what i remember him saying
Or two thousand, in this caseA picture paints a thousand words.
I was thinking of giving this explanation a title, "War and Piece" perhaps ? ;-)Or two thousand, in this case