- Thread starter Smallfry
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One time, I was farting around in the dark trying to jump start my 200tdi 110. I had a spare charged battery. It was dark. I connected the leads to the landy and then to the spare battery. I thought it arced a lot as I jammed the negative lead on but went with it. After about 10 secs (maybe more) I thought the leads were rather hot and getting melty. I'd only gone and put them the wrong way round! I whipped them off, let them cool l, put them on correctly and off it went. Both batteries lasted another 10 years or so. God knows what I would have done to a modern car!
The only issues I've ever seen have been the result of leads being connected wrong, or in the wrong place.
Either not enough power to fully power up, or some modules managing to power up while others don't so communication between the modules isn't working how it should, and they'll just not respond correctly.
Usually locking the vehicle, leaving it a couple minutes, then trying again is enough to let things shut down, then power up correctly.
I've never personally had any specific issues with Masters/Movanos, but have had the occasional vehicle that won't start, and it's likely to do with modules not powering up correctly.
Either not enough power to fully power up, or some modules managing to power up while others don't so communication between the modules isn't working how it should, and they'll just not respond correctly.
Usually locking the vehicle, leaving it a couple minutes, then trying again is enough to let things shut down, then power up correctly.
skotl
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My 2023 car is loaded with electronics, which is what causes the battery to drain in the first place! Started it with the Noco booster probably ten times with no ill effects.
I now leave it connected to a Noco trickle charger most nights.
I now leave it connected to a Noco trickle charger most nights.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Volvos have a "hot" power point in the boot...intended to run a fridge for example I think. I used to just have a solar panel plugged in and stuck on the rear window....worked very well. When the battery is nicely topped up it started lovely....car could be left indefinitely which was very handy.
They won't lock they completely go blank, all electrics stop working, even the odo display disappears from the dash, Always after the lads have been left unsupervised to jump start them.
They regularly drain the batteries leaving flashing lights on or stop start work when they turn them on and of repeatedly.
Hold that battery terminals together for minute, reconnect the battery and everything comes back to life. Re-attatch the jump leads and off you go. No other signs of a problem.
I'm not sure if the van thinks it's trying to be stolen and immobilizes itself or whether it is trying to protect itself.
And I definitely couldn't tell you how it works.
The first time it happened we thought they had well and truly knackered the van.
Ubique
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If that's the case, then you have a problem - no vehicle 'modern' or otherwise, should draw >50mA quiescent current, usually much lower, around 30mA. I'd suggest you have the cause investigated whilst it's still in warranty, the good thing is that there should be comprehensive battery monitoring stats available to confirm the concern and point to the cause - which may well be the starter battery itself.
Kayos
Gone......
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I see these comments a lot on here
Along with hundreds of posts about problems with older cars
I will stick with my brand new car, stuffed full of electronics and gizmos
According to the app, when I leave at 0830 it will be 20 degrees, the drivers heated seats will be set just so and it cost me £4.90 to charge last night, giving me 200 miles if range
You makes your choice and all that
pedrobedro
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I jumped the neighbour's Toyota Auris with my Clarke battery with no ill effects. His battery was totally flat.
Misterg
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The X290 Ducato / Boxer / Relay series of vans are notorious for any sort of voltage upset killing the airbag ECU.
They are widely used as a base for motorhomes, and the problem often manifests itself when someone tries to crank a camper van/motorhome with a low battery (from standing unused). There have also been incidents (reported on motorhome forums) that if you give a jump start to another vehicle with one of these, then your airbag ECU can get damaged. In my case (2018 Relay) I killed the airbag ECU by almost stalling the van, such that all the dash lights came on - the airbag light never went off again- £400, please
.
The newer (2020 on???) Airbag ECU modules are supposedly more robust.
They are widely used as a base for motorhomes, and the problem often manifests itself when someone tries to crank a camper van/motorhome with a low battery (from standing unused). There have also been incidents (reported on motorhome forums) that if you give a jump start to another vehicle with one of these, then your airbag ECU can get damaged. In my case (2018 Relay) I killed the airbag ECU by almost stalling the van, such that all the dash lights came on - the airbag light never went off again- £400, please
.The newer (2020 on???) Airbag ECU modules are supposedly more robust.
I must have been lucky I use my 2016 relay to jump start tractors loaders most weeks.The X290 Ducato / Boxer / Relay series of vans are notorious for any sort of voltage upset killing the airbag ECU.
They are widely used as a base for motorhomes, and the problem often manifests itself when someone tries to crank a camper van/motorhome with a low battery (from standing unused). There have also been incidents (reported on motorhome forums) that if you give a jump start to another vehicle with one of these, then your airbag ECU can get damaged. In my case (2018 Relay) I killed the airbag ECU by almost stalling the van, such that all the dash lights came on - the airbag light never went off again- £400, please
The newer (2020 on???) Airbag ECU modules are supposedly more robust.
Morrisman
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I’d be a banging on the main sdealers door if my one year old car kept flattening its battery overnight.
dobbslc
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That's wrong surely!
My Surf sits unused for quite long periods of time with fairly old batteries and only needs a jump start very rarely.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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An advantage with EVs...if everything is working correctly they top up the 12v battery from the main traction battery I believe.
....if everything is not working correctly I've heard they too may need a jump start!
....if everything is not working correctly I've heard they too may need a jump start!
I thought the fairy story about connecting the - Neg to the engine/body was to keep it away from the battery to avoid a spark igniting any hydrogen escaping from the battery.
40 years in the motor trade and jump started 100s of cars straight to the battery with jump leads/ battery packs. Never had a problem.
40 years in the motor trade and jump started 100s of cars straight to the battery with jump leads/ battery packs. Never had a problem.
Yes always dead battery last connection. Here's what happens if you get it wrong.
The engine bay of my similar age 106 looks very similar to that Pug – and I can see very similar electronics on the end of the engine I think. Those “fancy” electronics failed one day leaving work, causing me to need to spend 15 miles tied to the back of an AA van.my noco went flat the other day so i had to jump the talbot, can say with confidence neither of these have any fancy electronics
View attachment 470958
Compared to my trials car using clockwork ignition from a 1978 Escort, nearly everything has fancy electronics.
I too though, haven’t suffered, I think, from any issues with multiple cars of ages from 1978 to 2106 jumpstarting with connections direct to battery or to engine blocks/bodywork.
Certainly never left them connected before starting the jumper to see if it will start the jumpee – as my Caterham uses a lawn mower battery, there wouldn’t be much juice left in it jumping the Lancia.
However, since fitting a new alternator that always turns off the light, rather than mostly turning off the light, the 6 yr old Sun battery in the Lancia hasn’t required assistance.
