Some buggy pics for Baloo

  1. Wightsparks

    Wightsparks Forum Supporter

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    Sound lovely it's so nice when you finally find something wrong!

    I'm chasing an intermittent idle problem on mine as well, it will idle fine for ages then suddenly start hunting and even die, hot or cold. Then it's fine again - not the ICV as I swapped it out but something random - might be the ECU temp sensor. Better re attach the OBDII port that got chopped out:doh:
     
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  2. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

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    1,806
    Rotherham
    I had similar with the MX-5 a few years ago, I think it was the actual throttle body itself, I cleaned it all up and blew the bypass hole out and then set the throttle stop and bypass back up (that's a tricky balance!) and it's been fine since.
     
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  3. Woody.v8

    Woody.v8 Blue gluer

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    @PhillipM ,What tube are you using in the chassis and cage , T45?
     
  4. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

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    Rotherham
    Yes, the whole thing is T45 from one end to the other, even the bumper and nerf rails.
     
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  5. Woody.v8

    Woody.v8 Blue gluer

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    Who are you getting it from?
     
  6. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

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    1,806
    Rotherham
    Proformance Metals, there's not many supplying it these days unless you want 10 ton of it :D
     
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  7. Woody.v8

    Woody.v8 Blue gluer

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    Thanks I'll give them a go:thumbup:
     
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  8. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

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    1,806
    Rotherham
    Next question...what are you building? :D
     
  9. Wightsparks

    Wightsparks Forum Supporter

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    Could be - but it was a sudden problem, few hundred miles just fine (since transplant) then parked out in the sun for a few hours last August and the problem started - only affects idle - driving ins fine. Worth a try though as it's an easy one.
     
  10. Woody.v8

    Woody.v8 Blue gluer

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    20180824_224608.png
     
  11. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

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    1,806
    Rotherham
    Yeah, this was the same - as soon as the temperatures dropped in winter - I think the throttle had gunked up enough that just a bit of throttle icing in the cold weather was shutting it.
     
  12. Wightsparks

    Wightsparks Forum Supporter

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    Pulled off the TB, used half a can of brake cleaner and lots of 'roll. Well oil be, seems to have fixed it. Thanks Phil :thumbup:
     
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  13. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

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    1,806
    Rotherham
    The diagnostics invoice is in the post :D


    Had a nightmare with the car just as we thought we were sorted - the car ran fine when fired up - but then the intermittent starting reared it's head again - with sudden random engine stops for no apparent reason, but only when idling - been tracking that down again over a lot of wasted weekends.
    Finally traced it down to what we thought was the alternator or the ballast, so I pulled the loom apart and added a larger ballast to the field coil, no difference, bought a new alternator in case that was a duff one - no difference.
    Take alternator off, starts fine.
    Much head scratching.

    Turns out the alternators we were getting from the local supplier (an electrical specialist, not just a factors) - were basically noisy as hell when they were trying to get to the right voltage at low rpms (i,e - startup only) - a cap in the line doesn't fix it, some shielding might but we've just sacked it off and got a different type of alternator instead, need to alter things to get that to fit properly again now, but after rigging it up today it's purring like a kitten. Need to retime it now though as not certain it was 100% before as it idles smoother now.

    It never rains, it pours!

    On the upside, I was rebuilding some other dampers* so I rebuilt/revalved the rears on ours to suit the new arms and bled them, so that's one more job off the list and ready to go - although I have just acquired some new go faster parts to machine and fit - I got told these were top secret so...there we go:

    [​IMG]

    It's all very well getting shiny adjustable parts for your dampers but then you have to spend hours modelling the damned things - nearly there, housings next.
    These are high and low speed compression adjusters, that hopefully with a bit of work on my side will be adaptable enough to use both on the small fronts and large rear dampers...hopefully.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If it works they'll end up costing us about 1/3rd of what it would to buy the kits you can get for the Fox dampers, and these will fit the fronts too which the kits don't.


    *Might put some pictures up later if someone wants to see just how much damage some debris in a damper can cause...
     
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  14. Shox Dr

    Shox Dr Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango

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    @PhillipM I’d be interested in the damper internals
     
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  15. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

    Messages:
    1,806
    Rotherham
    I'll put them up later, nothing fancy, just plenty of damage from simple neglect/shit rebuilds.

    Adjuster housings done - light and simple to make, and easy to swap fittings for the different hoses:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

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    1,806
    Rotherham
    And they adapt with just a few fittings and some internal changes to work with the smaller front shocks, sorted :D

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

    Messages:
    1,806
    Rotherham
    Seems a shame to go back to the old front end when the new ones were finished in mock up and are mid fabrication for the actual ones, but screw it, back to the old we go - it can have an upgrade after the dyno instead...

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

    Messages:
    1,806
    Rotherham
    Thought I'd let you at least hear a couple of thousand revs:



    Throttle response is a little slow currently, but I think it's mainly down to the idle mapping running a bit lean - it stumbles a touch when you first touch the throttle from 1k.
    I need to check my changes to the cold start settings I've been making today when she cools off enough, and then I can hopefully richen the idle area and lean the main map out a bit to perk it up.
    Got the coils/injectors back up and running in sequential mode as I turned everything to dumb group fire when diagnosing, so timed in the cam trigger wheel and I've done a bit of work on the low-load transients so it picks up nice and cleanly everywhere bar around idle.

    Need to get it to the dyno then to get it spot on - it's deliberately tuned on the rich side with a bit of timing pulled at the minute to protect it until then - but basically everything else is setup in the map ready to go.
    I'm not sure it'll have any exhaust packing left by then though, it's covered the workshop in it...I got a bit more enthusiastic with the throttle later on as I got it a bit crisper
     
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  19. Shox Dr

    Shox Dr Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    I take it the hi/low speed comp adj is inline to a remote? What's the reason for spring rather the shim stack, greater range?

    How do you cope with the linear rate of a spring, over the infinitely adjustable shim stack
     
  20. PhillipM

    PhillipM Member

    Messages:
    1,806
    Rotherham
    It has a shim stack and a spring, the shim stack is for small fast response stuff and the spring just preloads the inner portion of the stack, faster shaft movements that overcome the preload lift the backstop washer and let the stack lift and blow off. Basically just a digressive system but with more adjustment range from the spring, but still allowing the stack to soften the transition.

    The housing screws straight onto the fitting for the canister that's already there - easier than machining the whole thing.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2019
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