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Ross365
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Mmmm.....that's one set of results, but there should be a second set. Going back to my first diagram, line one has you measuring between the LHS rectifier and the centre tap (i.e. negative lead) and line 2 has you measuring between the rectifier and on the RHS and the centre tap.
The way those two switches interact is not quite what I was expecting, but at least you are seeing voltages in the ballpark on the one half of the transformer, so if you get similar voltages on the other half that would be great.
The thing here is that it will be easier and much safer to guide you through repairs in the low volts side of the transformer rather than the mains side.
Assuming the second half of the transformer is good, that would narrow any problem down to one or both of the two rectifiers, or the meter or the DC circuit breaker, or the connections between them. Replacing those would be soooo much cheaper than the transformer.
Even if the second half of the transformer is bad, I reckon you can still cobble some sort of fix using just the one side, though it would not be quite as fast.
A pic of the top cover would be good; I find that instruction booklet a bit confusing.
Pleased to help you; on another forum today, a guy saved me an awful lot of work sorting out problems on some fog lamps with his expertise , so it comes around.
The way those two switches interact is not quite what I was expecting, but at least you are seeing voltages in the ballpark on the one half of the transformer, so if you get similar voltages on the other half that would be great.
The thing here is that it will be easier and much safer to guide you through repairs in the low volts side of the transformer rather than the mains side.
Assuming the second half of the transformer is good, that would narrow any problem down to one or both of the two rectifiers, or the meter or the DC circuit breaker, or the connections between them. Replacing those would be soooo much cheaper than the transformer.
Even if the second half of the transformer is bad, I reckon you can still cobble some sort of fix using just the one side, though it would not be quite as fast.
A pic of the top cover would be good; I find that instruction booklet a bit confusing.
Pleased to help you; on another forum today, a guy saved me an awful lot of work sorting out problems on some fog lamps with his expertise , so it comes around.
These kind of things have never had a lifetime warranty and even if they did it would not apply as you are not the original purchaser. These kind of things tend to be 1-2 years.
It's a very common misconception, their warranty statement is 100% crystal clear on the website.
Red'n'Black
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OK great. This is what I would do:
Find something to use as a dummy load. A headlight bulb is a good start, the type that have the combined high and low beams with three terminals on the back. Using a car battery, find the pair of terminals that connects both filaments in series, this can be safely conncted to the charger output on both 12V (both filaments will glow dull orange) and 24V (both filaments will light at full brightness) settings. It isn't anything like a full load for this charger but will be good enough to show where the problem is.
Connect the charger clips to the bulb terminals, set it to 12V (can't quite make out what the switch settings mean from the photos) and power on. Does the bulb even light?
Set the meter to 200 V AC (i.e. one click to the right of where it is in your photo).
Connect the black meter lead to the negative charger clip.
Touch the red meter lead on the left-hand lead from the transformer secondary where it bolts onto the rectifier (terminal on the big square ally plate) and note the voltage.
Touch the meter lead on the right-hand rectifier terminal and note the voltage.
Both readings should be around 14 - 17V and should be closely equal if both halves of the rectifier are working properly.
Switch the meter to the 20 V DC range. Leave the black meter lead connected to the charger negative, connect the meter red lead to charger positive and note the voltage.
Touch the black meter lead somehwhere on the rectifier heatsink, Make sure the tip pierces through any tarnish or anodising.
Touch the red meter lead on the left-hand transformer lead where it bolts on to the rectifier and note the voltage.
Move the red lead to the right-hand transformer lead and note the voltage.
That lot should help narrow down the fault once we have the results. There are some more tests to follow on from those but that's probably enough wall-o-text for one day
Let us know what you find.
chris pruteanu
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Talking about monster booster/starters, i have one at the garage from local airport maintenance facility, you should see the size of that...the diodes are some massive russian made rectifiers and the transformer is 50kg on its own...will take some pictures of it next time i am at the garage... granted that snap on above is no toy either !
Hi again Ross I agree 12v fast or slow are the only 2 I will be using and I have taken the readings which are 12v rear plate on normal is 10.8 on fast is 15.7 and the same on the front one, I am also not sure that the ammeter is working I have never seen it move but I may not have been set up correctly as doing this with you has given me a better understanding of it already
Ross365
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OK, that's good. Where are are you wrt the second set of results (which can be just for B1 C1) and finding a load for it; either a partially discharged battery or a car headlight bulb? The latter would need some wire connected to it (good for at least 5, better 10A) to connect it to the leads.
Ross365
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Best keep an eye on the battery with the hazard light; you don't want to discharge to anywhere less than 10.5V, which it might do if left overnight; I guess the light will be a quart halogen, so probably taking 4-5A.
One way forward; using the battery as is;
>>set your meter to DCV 20 and measure the battery voltage (probably shows something like 12V)
>>Set charger to B1 and connect;
If significant power is reaching the battery, the voltage should start rising fairly quickly to around 13V. You might see 5A on the ammeter. I cannot read any of the numbers on the scale of the meter very clearly; can you tell me what they are? Don't leave it running long, then switch off and we can discuss whatever result you get.
One way forward; using the battery as is;
>>set your meter to DCV 20 and measure the battery voltage (probably shows something like 12V)
>>Set charger to B1 and connect;
If significant power is reaching the battery, the voltage should start rising fairly quickly to around 13V. You might see 5A on the ammeter. I cannot read any of the numbers on the scale of the meter very clearly; can you tell me what they are? Don't leave it running long, then switch off and we can discuss whatever result you get.
pressbrake1
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I remember that and they were better than anything else 240v
I also recall seeing loads of dead ones
Hi again Ross I have checked the battery and it on 12.4 so I think in the morning it should be about where we want it. anyway outlaws gone but I am not up to more tonight will get the battery reading in the morning if does go slightly under I have a trickle charger
might be stating the obvious but be cautious on modern cars... I managed to fry an engine ECU on a 7.5t DAF LF with an SIP booster/charger using the booster to get it started, £500 for an independent tech to supply/recode a used/recon replacement ECU, from DAF it would have been nearer 2k!
Ross365
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Yes; as per my posts #5&12, I do wonder about whether a fast charger like this is entirely compatible with modern batteries/cars.
I guess the only way to find out is to try but any expensive car I buy will not be suffering along those lines
Hi again Ross I took the battery readings at midnight last night and it was down to 11.7 so disconnected have just read it again and back up to 12.4 so it is back on the hazard lamp please advise thanks Chris
Ross365
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Even at 12.4V, connecting the charger should still show you a rise to 13V and above quite quickly. Stop quickly if it's getting to around ~14.5
Where are we on getting the AC voltages on the second side of the transformer? Remember we only need the B1 and C1 settings?
Where are we on getting the AC voltages on the second side of the transformer? Remember we only need the B1 and C1 settings?
