Small Diesel Shop Heater

[not done it yet]

How will a 3amp charger run the glow plug that is required for ignition of the fuel.

Perhaps you should have read my earlier posts and not just chimed in on my reply to fizzy?

Yours is likely the way that some read, and believe, things that have been taken out of context and ‘re-issued’ in a different form.

I’ve no idea how you connect a chinese diesel fired air heater with a grinder. The mind boggled. If in doubt, read again, until you are clear is my advice.

 

[Barking Mat]

They should never be installed with an off switch, on the 12 v supply.

When turning off, they must go through the cooling off cycle.

Read the installation instructions, protect the exhaust, they get stupid hot.

I have major issues with the autoterm compared to webasto exhaust insulation.

 

[fizzy]

Perhaps you should have read my earlier posts and not just chimed in on my reply to fizzy?

Yours is likely the way that some read, and believe, things that have been taken out of context and ‘re-issued’ in a different form.

I’ve no idea how you connect a chinese diesel fired air heater with a grinder. The mind boggled. If in doubt, read again, until you are clear is my advice.

He wasn't suggesting using it with a grinder. Just saying that having a battery on charge could be dangerous near something like a grinder due to hydrogen gas being given off.

 

[carbon]

See HSE storage battery guidance regarding sparks and batteries

 

[DAPPH]

Finally fitted and tested the Chinese diesel heater , as previously mentioned I run it with a clean air intake for both the burner ignition burn and the heat exchanger input/ out put incase there are volatile fumes in the mancupboard . It also has a battery power supply on a trickle charger due to us having an unreliable mains supply. The charger blew the 5 amp fuse first time used , replaced it with an original LUCAS spade fuse out my box of 35 yr old ancient fuses .. every thing appears to be OK
Fuel wise about 1.2 litres on the lowest heat setting in 3.5 hrs which raised the mancupboard's internal temp on setting H 1 from 9 oC to 13 oC with the insulated roller shutter down . Cavity block walls and 100 mm insulated Kingspan plastisol galv roof .
Ran it today for a 3.5 hr. uninterrupted period ... well pleased with it .

I'm glad I took the time & spent more money to get the core drills & an extension to put the air inlets & exhaust through 16 i& 18 inches inches of cavity wall made with grit concrete block work. Rubber Rawl plugs for stress reduced mounting of things in the block walls didn't come cheap either ca. all extras including battery terminals , suitable cabling from battery to the supplied wiring IIRC £86 in total plus VAT .

The block work is such that I dare not trust it to take all steel anchor bolts nor plastic wall plugs and screws as it braeks up under the slightest pressure.

It cost £88 plus VAT the extras needed to complete the install getting on for half that and having to wait for them to be delivered .

Fresh air intake for the heat exchanger , I will be 3D printing two pipe adaptor collars as the alu concertina pipe is almost 5 inch internally slipped over the 75 mm stainles pipe going throughtnbeh wall and covering the heaters own air inlet flange

Air intake filter on the left pointing down incase of heavy rain and the stainless exhaust 7 silencer on the right. After tomorrow the exhaust will be run via a 2 mtr extension tube through an aluminium tube through the greenhouse and out the other end as a simple fully sealed along it's length greenhouse warmer when I'm playing in the mancupboard .

Things for tomorrow perhaps ? Take a Tee off the boiler's oil supply and fit it with a proper oil resistant stop tap & small spout fairly low to the ground so I can fill the flexible spouted 6 litre filling can with heating oil and fill the heater's fuel tank with ease and without any oil spills . .

 

[AVI_8]

Very neat, personally I’d have let the intake use the warmer air from the inside of the building.

 

[rcx132]

I have two of these recently fitted to heat my 30 sq.m garage. I find each one gives off twice as much heat as a 3kW electric heater.

I've had no issues with them, other than the pain of having to drill a 30mm hole for the exhaust and making a stand for them so that they mount on the wall.

Mine draw 7 amps on start up (glow plug?), so not sure why a 30a power supply is needed.

One of mine is a Vevor and the other is HCalory. I've had them both apart (curiosity). The HCalory seems the better one, more solid castings, nicer fuel tubing.

Honestly it's really amazing what Chinese manufacturing can do. Once they suss a technolgy they can create a decent product at an amazing price market changing price. The heaters are a bit minimal in build quality but they are perfectly upto the job.

Tip: I made the mistake of using generic power tool fuel line when I wall mounted my heaters. The exhaust started melting the tube, so serious fire risk. The original fuel tube is heat proof.

 

[bert]

I run one at work for keeping the spray booth warm. The tank takes about 4l of diesel we run it on red and will keep going for 6 hours or so on that.



It's connected to a 12v battery and a normal car charger

 

[winchman]

Got one in the motor home its fantastic, Facebook has a couple of good Chinese diesel heater groups which can be very helpful

 

[armalites]

Very neat, personally I’d have let the intake use the warmer air from the inside of the building.

I think that is the intake for the comustion chamber not the hot air so it's probably better drawer fresh air from outside

 

[fizzy]

Very neat, personally I’d have let the intake use the warmer air from the inside of the building.

It doesn't matter with the combustion air. But Dave is also taking the heating air from outside. Yes it is less efficient but he has a sound reason for doing so. He doesn't want paint or solvent fumes being drawn into the heater and burnt - then being pumped back around.

 

[fizzy]

I run one at work for keeping the spray booth warm. The tank takes about 4l of diesel we run it on red and will keep going for 6 hours or so on that.



It's connected to a 12v battery and a normal car charger

Kero is cheaper and cleaner if you can get it.

 

[Burdekin]

I use one quite often. Mine is supposed to be 5kw but I highly doubt it puts out 5kw. A tank lasts all day and good for heating probably a double garage space, maybe a triple garage space. I much prefer a multi fuel stove burning coal if you want a good amount of heat but the diesel heater is less hassle.

 

[fizzy]

I use one quite often. Mine is supposed to be 5kw but I highly doubt it puts out 5kw. A tank lasts all day and good for heating probably a double garage space, maybe a triple garage space. I much prefer a multi fuel stove burning coal if you want a good amount of heat but the diesel heater is less hassle.

My 8kw one is actually 4 kw. Sometimes they are sold as 5kw but that is rare. The 5kw one is usually 2 or 3 kw.
But exceptional value all the same!

 

[DAPPH]

Very neat, personally I’d have let the intake use the warmer air from the inside of the building.

That's a very dangerous NO , NO if there is any chance of you having highly volatile fumes in the room where the heater air intake is , imagine ...... One hell of a big bang and if your lucky you'll only have loss of your hearing and some serious burns .

Long before HASAW 74 came along the factories act training people reckoned an eggcup of petrol used to clean parts on a work bench is enough to blow a 30 x 30 x 10 foot garage apart if the fumes ignite

 

[DAPPH]

I think that is the intake for the comustion chamber not the hot air so it's probably better drawer fresh air from outside

Both air intakes are well outside of the mancupboard , the black dong is the air filter a for the actual burner . Five feet away round the corner is the heat exchanger clean air intake , as I definitely don't want to be breathing in reheated spent exhaust gasses.

Plumbed in an equal 10 mm compression T close to the point where the fuel line for the boiler enters the bungalow then put a 300 mm lift pipe on it then a 10 mm compression stop tap . I had an interesting time bending more 10 mm copper tube to get a sensible swan neck on the top end of th tap t so I can fill the 6 litre fuel filler jug/ can that has a decent long flexible neck on it .
Solved the problem in the end by slitting some 8 mm ID rubber gas hose and sliding it over the 10 mm pipe to increase the external diameter, it fitted snugly in the hand 15 mm pipe bender , after a couple of light bending sessions I got a lovely J shape . It takes around a five min or so to fill the six litre jug , being so light I can manage the six and a half or so kg when it's full . Plus if things get difficult for me my lass has said she will sack barrow it to the mancupboard and do the filling up for me if needs be .

 

[m_c]

That's a very dangerous NO , NO if there is any chance of you having highly volatile fumes in the room where the heater air intake is , imagine ...... One hell of a big bang and if your lucky you'll only have loss of your hearing and some serious burns .

Long before HASAW 74 came along the factories act training people reckoned an eggcup of petrol used to clean parts on a work bench is enough to blow a 30 x 30 x 10 foot garage apart if the fumes ignite

The exposed exhaust on the bottom of the heater gets hotter than the body of the heater.

 

[armalites]

Both air intakes are well outside of the mancupboard , the black dong is the air filter a for the actual burner and five feet away round the corner is the heat exchanger clean air intake , as I definitely don't want to be breathing in reheated spent exhaust gasses

Absolutely, eating twice cooked chips is fine but breathing twice cooked air is a different matter

 

[qwakers]

That's a very dangerous NO , NO if there is any chance of you having highly volatile fumes in the room where the heater air intake is , imagine ...... One hell of a big bang and if your lucky you'll only have loss of your hearing and some serious burns .

Long before HASAW 74 came along the factories act training people reckoned an eggcup of petrol used to clean parts on a work bench is enough to blow a 30 x 30 x 10 foot garage apart if the fumes ignite

BULL.

the air intake (not the combustion intake) has absolutely no possibility of passing that air over a combustion source, it is a totally separated circuit. there is also no chance of CO passing out of it.

 

[gaz1]

Very neat, personally I’d have let the intake use the warmer air from the inside of the building.

so any fresh air coming into the building will be cold therefore defeating your intention

its better to take fresh clean air from outside pipe it through the burning system and back out