Small car wheel studs from bolts

[cardiffrob]

Howdy.

I've got to replace some 7/16 unf wheel bolts in a 1952 Morris Minor. It is the early version, not the later 3/8 unf with studs on. To make the new bolts I was planning to use 60 degree Ford Crapri wheel nuts and some threaded bolts cut down. I need 37mm of threaded section, ideally. Any suggestions as to a good source? HT socket heads? Threaded 8.8 rod? 12.8?
Thanks.

Rob

 

[colnerov]

Hi, Try Mistertee he has quite a range of wheel studs and nuts. -

https://www.mistertee.co.uk/

Colin

 

[cardiffrob]

Thanks. I've been on that site today. I still need a source of the bolt thread section. The nuts are quite easy to source.

 

[colnerov]

Hi, There's a plenty on ebay with variety of lengths.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...6"+wheel+.TRS0&_nkw=7/16+wheel+studs&_sacat=0

Colin

 

[frank horton]

the wheel studs, are they the swaged pressed in type ??
what ever they are normal cut down bolts WON"T do at all........they are very high tensile steel........buy the proper ones and save ur life.......
the nuts are not special at all at that size.........

 

[daedalusminos]

I find it hard to believe suitable replacement studs aren't available - probably same fitment to other era cars e.g Sprite, Midget with integral hub/drum. Try enquiring on a Morris Minor forum, most likely they'll point you in the right direction.

 

[merryman]

I think we need some pictures. We don't seem to have grasped quite what you are on about. Are you sure you need UNFs? My MG TC came out three years before the Minor and is all BSF (except the metric threaded engine).

 

[armalites]

7/16 UNF studs are available
https://www.trailertek.com/trailer-...ares/wheel-studs-and-nuts/7-16-unf-wheel-stud

But as I read it 7/16 UNF wheel bolts are needed hence the talk of using a nut and a bolt

The bolts are available though
http://www.morrisminorspares.com/wh...yres-c96/road-wheel-bolt-unf-early-mm-p831449

 

[PhillipM]

Majority of wheel studs and bolts are usually 10.9 grade, so 10.9 studding/bolts is fine, so long as you can secure them in the hub properly.

On a '58 Morris Minor they're probably a step up from cheese as standard

 

[Stueeee]

couldn't you convert to using 7/16 UNF hex setscrews behind the hub and then use conventional wheelnuts.

This is what I did on my avatar car.

 

[malcolm]

Seems a lot are available. If you are feeling really tight https://www.morrisminor.org.uk/part...MItunom8GN3QIVzpztCh2W5wQgEAQYASABEgIcK_D_BwE

They do new ones too!

I'm not one for messing around with wheel bolts - it is irritating when the wheels fall off.

 

[cardiffrob]

Not studs...wheel bolts, as in the pic from Malcolm, above. In the pic you can see that there is a tiny surface area of contact with the wheel so they wear easily. By using a threaded length of HT and a Ford nut I can make the equivalent to a wheel nut with a larger head that will have a much larger area of contact. To reiterate, there are no studs on this car and no studs can be fitted due to the design of the one-piece hub/drum. The nut is ony 15.8mm AF whereas the Ford one is at least 19mm (or the Imperial equiv) To have enough thread to go into the hub and through the nut I'd need 37mm of thread, at least.

 

[cardiffrob]

OK, not the best pic, but it kinda shows the problem where the small bolt head pulls through the wheel.

 

[Justme]

Cone washers?

 

[gaz_moose]

think I would buy bolts with the correct thread length then cut the heads off and wind the thread threw the nut till its recessed on the back, then weld them together.

although someone with a lathe could just turn some out of some hex bar.

 

[cardiffrob]

It seems that some BMWs use 8.8 HT bolts to hold their wheels on. If so, I think a 27 BHP Morris is unlikely to snap some cut-down setscrews. Interesting to note that later Morris cars went down to 3/8 from the 7/16 sizes. I bought some more wheels to see if I could find a couple of better ones. This one seems to show the problem quite well. Prolly not worth saving???

 

[colnerov]

Hi, The stud and nut or the bolts don't bear the driving loads, they provide the clamping force for the wheel on the hub. The friction of which takes the loads.

Colin

 

[cardiffrob]

Progress, at last. I found some grade 5 hardware which I take to be the equivalent of 8.8 grade metric stuff? I have new nuts on order in 19mm. From the pic I hope you can see the problen where the 12 o'clock shows a standard factory set-up, 3 o'clock shows a washer under the bolt and the 9 o'clock is the version I'm working on. Lots more surface area to tighten down on and zero chance of bottoming out.
Any words of wisdom???

 

[merryman]

Looks like the nuts and setscrews are the way to go. Never heard of grade 5, sure it isn't S as "S quality" is the equivalent of 8.8. I would use Loctite to keep the nuts on the studs, any heat is going to "draw the temper."

P.S.
Just noticed your reference to 19mm, thought it was 7/16" UNF, standard wheel nuts will either be 11/16" or 3/4" AF spanner size.

 

[cardiffrob]

Strangely, the nuts are 7/16 UNF but call for a 19mm AF spanner on the packet. I'm going with studs and Loctite so it is also easier to get the wheels on. Bolts are a PITA!



Found this...

1 Mpa is 145 lb/in2 so grade 5 is 634 Mpa yield against 8.8 at 640. Looks like a close match.