Measured but usually only for a few minutes at a time or the electric bill would be
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julianf
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only the op can tell us the information. no point in speculating
Whilst i get paid to do electronics, a lot of the above is going over my head!
only the op can tell us the information. no point in speculating
Whilst im ok with electronics and the physics of electicity, a lot of the above is going over my head!
Ive taken some photos -
Currently that "washing line" affair in the earlier photo is comming off position 13, along with a cooker point (note this is not the cooker im on about in my 'costing')
I assumed i would run a new cable from the consumer unit above, but, really, i have little idea about this stuff.
What im really wanting to achieve is that the CNC machine does not get tripped by overload. If something goes mid job it just costs me time / effort / money.
Not in photos -
There is, what im 99% sure is, an earth spike just outside our front door. Earth comes down the wall and to the spike.
WorkshopChris
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Thats the way i would go, but i would fit new tails to a new split distribution board.
Put the workshop on a rcbo-(unless the cable run could meet regs to be non rcd protected) then feed the existing installation via a 30ma rcd, as the existing instal is only covered by a 100ma. Leaving capacity on the new DB to move over any circuits as required or updated.
What i am not seeing in the images is any signs of a adequate earthing arrangement. The 100ma rcd is often a indication of a TT arrangement.
julianf
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ps could you possibly link me to products? for someone who does not instantly recognise the terms, its useful to be pointed at stuff for sale (i dont mean im going to run out and buy it, but, often looking at products is an easier way to learn some stuff as any other)
julianf
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...ive just been on youtube, trying to educate myself.
Am i right in thinking that i dont need a new actual consumer unit, as the current unit is split anyway?
It looks like the only thing in use on the right hand half is a cooker socket. So im thinking i could use the existing case, and use one half for the house, and the other half for the garage?
Or would a 3 zone unit (i assume they exist) be preferable? Or put the individual house circuits on RCBOs instead of fuses on the second section of the existing unit?
Am i right in thinking that i dont need a new actual consumer unit, as the current unit is split anyway?
It looks like the only thing in use on the right hand half is a cooker socket. So im thinking i could use the existing case, and use one half for the house, and the other half for the garage?
Or would a 3 zone unit (i assume they exist) be preferable? Or put the individual house circuits on RCBOs instead of fuses on the second section of the existing unit?
angellonewolf
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if your not sure and you do have to have a p cert for the installation why not phone plannning office /who every in council offices
they will come and inspect and say what you will need you can do the work your self and they will sign it off as safe and if you sell the house you are covared
they will come and inspect and say what you will need you can do the work your self and they will sign it off as safe and if you sell the house you are covared
New consumer units are so cheap these days I would be inclined to replace it. It doesn't take long buying new breakers for old unit to get close to the price on a populated unit.
A fully populated MK 16 module 10 way split load is only £80.
It's certainly worth getting a common brand, I had to go to a few places to get breakers for my garage consumer unit. Even though they fit on a DIN rail and you think should be standardised some just won't fit in other brands.
A fully populated MK 16 module 10 way split load is only £80.
It's certainly worth getting a common brand, I had to go to a few places to get breakers for my garage consumer unit. Even though they fit on a DIN rail and you think should be standardised some just won't fit in other brands.
Seadog
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If you're going to do it yourself, then you need to notify Building Control before you start. I thnk you'll still need to find a sparks to sign it off, which may be the sticking point.
angellonewolf
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i though they actualy did the testing but will want to look at the work as it goes along ?
Seadog
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They'll want to inspect but not sure if they'll sign off. You'll have to ask them I suppose.
julianf
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The way it works with doc J is that there is a commercial body (hetas) who can install and sign off. Some installers will sign off other peoples work, but some wont. Or buildings control will inspect and sign off. I got buildings control to sign off the solid fuel appliance installs here.
WorkshopChris
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I am on the phone at the moment but when back on a pc i will sort out some links to bits and info.
Your best bet may be to find a local electrical who will terminate, test and sign off if you fit any bits and run the cable.
angellonewolf
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^^^^^good luck in that
I'd imagine your CNC machine draws too much power to give it it's own UPS ?
Since you really want to protect your CNC machine perhaps a setup similar to what I've got should do the trick.
The red group are fed from the 100A incoming switch (no RCD to trip) and the 63A MCB is the feed to my garage's consumer unit. This way the garage or the house can't trip each other out. Because the red group has no RCD I've used RCBO's to feed each of my house lighting circuits so that when a bulb blows it can only take out the lighting circuit it's on and nothing else.
The blue group of 3 MCB's are protected by a RCD, and again the green group is 4 MCB's again protected by it's own RCD.
Each group gets it's own feed straight from the 100A incoming switch. I had to buy extra copper busbars and cut them to the lengths required but I consider it worth the effort.
In my garage I have a split consumer unit again protected by separate RCD's feeding each bank of MCB's.
The only way either the house or the garage can affect each other is if I blow the DNO's fuse and if that happens I'm in the poo anyway.
WorkshopChris
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Thats the way to go but unless the workshop feed is either swa or in metallic conduit (or surface mounted along its entire length) To comply with current regs it still needs rcd protection.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...cfm?type=pdf&usg=AOvVaw1WOV4Q1XNCeOZgds9Hbb_g
This should give you a bit of background on the earthing side of things.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...cfm?type=pdf&usg=AOvVaw2f9WSYnVQevOG6Sdp_yU7d
