Shopping List for New BUD Owner

[rikrobson]

Yup I put it round the lower countershaft and over the headstock spindle in the grove. Get someone to press the spindle lock button on the front. You'll need 3 hands as well.

pull down on the top end against the friction in the v grove.
pull up on the other end againt the countershaft and not the pully. This will give you just enough wiggle room.
there are two pind to go through 3 holes.
put the long pin through the middle hole in the bottom link.
then the short ping through the end of the bottom link
then the end of the top one on the last pit of the first pin.
then loop onto the lower pully.

You need to use the gap in the split and a pair of pliers.

Have a practice first off the lathe.

there is a knack to doing it. practice make perfect.

 

[dazza]

Yup I put it round the lower countershaft and over the headstock spindle in the grove. Get someone to press the spindle lock button on the front. You'll need 3 hands as well.

pull down on the top end against the friction in the v grove.
pull up on the other end againt the countershaft and not the pully. This will give you just enough wiggle room.
there are two pind to go through 3 holes.
put the long pin through the middle hole in the bottom link.
then the short ping through the end of the bottom link
then the end of the top one on the last pit of the first pin.
then loop onto the lower pully.

You need to use the gap in the split and a pair of pliers.

Have a practice first off the lathe.

there is a knack to doing it. practice make perfect.

It went on really easy should i take it off and remove a link or two? Or just continue putting it back together.

 

[Pete.]

On my lathe I joined the belt then popped it onto the pulley like re-fitting a bicycle chain.

To join the belt use circlip pilers to stretch the link open then add some brute force with your fingers to bend the links.

 

[dazza]

On my lathe I joined the belt then popped it onto the pulley like re-fitting a bicycle chain.

To join the belt use circlip pilers to stretch the link open then add some brute force with your fingers to bend the links.

This is exactly what i did, the circlip pliers worked really well.

 

[dazza]

Don't know if you can get an idea of how tight the belt is from this.

 

[Pete.]

Seems pretty good. You could add tension by packing the bearing block down with washers.

 

[rikrobson]

THAT IS WAY TOO LOOSE

 

[rikrobson]

take out links until it won't reach then add one. you'll be able to hold the spindle with the motor running like that.

 

[Seadog]

The belt should be bl**dy tight if you follow the instructions. It's measured length minus 9%. I ended up with the intermediate shaft hanging loose inside the cabinet and once fitted into the pulley levering the assembly back into place. It's a real pain to do.The head stock may not be in line with the end of the bed. It certainly isn't on the earlier models. It's all down to the alignment between the two pulleys. Drop a plum-line over the front of the pulley ( I think it's a vertical drop from there) and you'll see where to position it.

 

[dazza]

As usual i got side tracked, cant dog up the head stock bolt nearest to the chuck. The 14mm spanner is too long.

 

[Seadog]

The age old problem. Get a ring spanner you don't need ( the right size for the head of course) and bend it. A combination spanner is ideal. You may still find that you need to resort to a second spanner, maybe an open-ender bent in the same fashion. Otherwise, get a short spanner and just lever it tight using the bed as a fulcrum.

I did a mod to mine but, to be honest, it didn't really make it any easier to do.

I made a stud with BSW one end and UNF the other since I wanted to use a 12 point Triumph barrel base nut. It seemed like it would make life easier

 

[dazza]

Its alive .

Took one link out and putting the belt back on was the pita i expected it to be.

Had no idea how tight these change wheels should be.

Should these line up??

Still not worked out where this switch should go i added one to the cabinet on the side.

 

[dazza]

Does this sound ok?

 

[gaz1]

nice job but you have way too much time on your hands

at least your mrs knows where you are

but its still her turn for the toys to come out of this as you have had way too many already

 

[rikrobson]

There should be a bit of backlash on the gears, you dont want then tight. Mine is quite quiet with the leadscrew disengaged. I'm presuming the thump de dump noise is the gear train. the gears can be slightly off, but must be parallel. use plenty of oil on them. you shouldnt run the chuck with loose jaws. if you want to run it just put a piece of bar in the chuck. They can work loose and fly off. Not very common occurence, especially if you clamp up the jaws!

Which gears have you got?

Is it Metric or imperial?

 

[dazza]

There should be a bit of backlash on the gears, you dont want then tight. Mine is quite quiet with the leadscrew disengaged. I'm presuming the thump de dump noise is the gear train. the gears can be slightly off, but must be parallel. use plenty of oil on them. you shouldnt run the chuck with loose jaws. if you want to run it just put a piece of bar in the chuck. They can work loose and fly off. Not very common occurence, especially if you clamp up the jaws!

Which gears have you got?

Is it Metric or imperial?

metric i think it has a full set.

 

[dazza]

Sounds a little different with the lead screw disengaged.

 

[dazza]

nice job but you have way too much time on your hands

The kids had to tell the rest of the class what I do for a living. They both said working on stuff in the garage .

 

[Pete.]

Sounds fine. Don't worry if the gears don't line up perfectly so long as they mostly do. Make sure the gears have some clearance. Some people use a piece of paper. I just make sure there's visible movement between the teeth if you hold one gear and rock the other.

 

[dazza]

I feel like making some swarf but have not picked up any stock yet, old bolts?