Shed replacement

[Robotstar5]

Following on from my thread about shed types I've decided on a 10' x 6' wooden shed so thought it worth starting a new thread which hopefully will be completed in a few months.

Like this, but without the window.

My current shed (8' x 6') is a bit full

I started moving stuff out to store in the garage and found the roof had leaked during the heavy rain we had over last winter so some stuff has been ruined, other stuff won't go back in the new shed as it will appear in the "for sale" & "freebies" section of the forum.

Now the technical questions start.....

The current shed sits on mixed concrete and flags which is sound but not flat so I leveled the bearer supports with bricks set on varying thicknesses of slate and mortared in.

I want to get rid of the bricks/bearers and have a concrete base 3.2m x 2.2m about 50mm deep poured and leveled so using online calculators worked out I need 0.352m³ of concrete.

More online calculators give me:
90kg of cement
250kg of sand
425kg of aggregate
To make what I want, but there are bound to be experienced forum members to advise if this will work.

Before anyone suggests it, I am happy with the current foundations and will NOT be digging it all up and replacing it, just topping it off with a level pad of concrete, if it doesn't work out you can say "I told you so"

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

On my allotment cement isn't allowed...I used adjustable deck levellers. They worked a treat and went over the existing base which is similar to yours....save the hassle of pouring a base to just get things level.

 

[Robotstar5]

On my allotment cement isn't allowed...I used adjustable deck levellers. They worked a treat and went over the existing base which is similar to yours....save the hassle of pouring a base to just get things level.

Thanks for that, I'd never heard of them, just wondering how high the shed base will end up with the levelers and a 3" x 2" bearer on top?

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

They sell them in ranges of adjustment. What I did was take a level line and then buy specific ranges needed. So where the base was low I bought taller adjusters. Mine are the plastic ones with the pads...the bonus is you don't need the bricks/slate anymore.

For mine I made a new base out of pressure treated 3x2...then did a good floor in 25mm deck boards. With that you can get rid of the shed base that they supply I reckon.

You can just about see the deck levellers....I put a few more in before the floor went down

 

[Onoff]

My current shed (8' x 6') is a bit full

Having seen @Kram 's shed, never was there a more apt user name. At least you have a bit of floor.

 

[Dilkris]

All I have to add is - make your shed as big as possible - both financially and logistically - as it will never be big enough.

 

[MattF]

All I have to add is - make your shed as big as possible - both financially and logistically - as it will never be big enough.

I was thinking about this just the other day. I actually prefer to be compact over large, space wise. Can stand seeing every bit of space utilised, but it'd bug me seeing empty space.

As long as there's enough room to move around & work, I'm quite happy to play workshop tetris.

 

[Gragson]

Your previous shed height off the base looks about 60mm?
I would reckon that is ideal to keep it dry and breezy underneath.
Experience of my previous shed being only about 20 or 30 mm battens meant it was cosy enough for rodents (and swarms of frogs) and also did for it in the end as the base rotted out before the roof or sides were affected.

May not look great but high and dry will last longer.

 

[tigdlo]

I would reckon that is ideal to keep it dry and breezy underneath.

That's what I did them I replaced my sheds, both are nice and dry. This is a 4'x6' there is a 2" fall on the soil front to back with the pea gravel raked flat, this gave about 3" clearance.

 

[addjunkie]

Id go a bit thicker than 50mm concrete, Id say 75, maybe even 100mm. Id also put a damp membrane between your base and concrete.
That said unless your slab is slightly smaller than the shed, rain will land on the edges and get under the shed. Non wood bearers would keep the shed bottom dry. Recycled plastic or similar would work.

 

[Robotstar5]

Id go a bit thicker than 50mm concrete, Id say 75, maybe even 100mm. Id also put a damp membrane between your base and concrete.
That said unless your slab is slightly smaller than the shed, rain will land on the edges and get under the shed. Non wood bearers would keep the shed bottom dry. Recycled plastic or similar would work.

I'm going for the composite bearer upgrade so that should work.

 

[skotl]

I was thinking about this just the other day. I actually prefer to be compact over large, space wise. Can stand seeing every bit of space utilised, but it'd bug me seeing empty space.

As long as there's enough room to move around & work, I'm quite happy to play workshop tetris.

"...empty space..."?

 

[addjunkie]

If your hand mixing the concrete, get help and a second mixer.

 

[MattF]

"...empty space..."?

Exactly. Could you imagine how bad it would be if there were any? You'd constantly have the urge to fill those spots, & you'd realise you could actually fit more in, so acquisitions would increase, etc., etc.

God no. Could you honestly imagine me in that scenario?

 

[addjunkie]

Exactly. Could you imagine how bad it would be if there were any? You'd constantly have the urge to fill those spots, & you'd realise you could actually fit more in, so acquisitions would increase, etc., etc.

God no. Could you honestly imagine me in that scenario?

Just get a bigger shed, or another shed once full!

 

[tigdlo]

I'm going for the composite bearer upgrade so that should work.

View attachment 490513

Rubber roof upgrade £396, you could DIY batten and fit a steel roof on top of the felt for that.

 

[gaz1]

remember its the outer edges that catch the rot as much as the bottom of the shed where water and damp exist the most

so supported walls done with 3x2s that are packed underneath with bricks and infill gravel between the bricks will keep the area well drained of water

the internal floor can be sat upon flags themselves its just your edges

the 3x2s plastic is a brick wall while the shed sits on top of the wall keeping it away from the water/damp

 

[gaz1]

Rubber roof upgrade £396, you could DIY batten and fit a steel roof on top of the felt for that.

neighbour had a felt roof hes put a metal roof on top

my advice stick to the cheap felt and just screw the metal roof on top as then you have 2 protections before water gets through that roof

 

[Onoff]

Any timber wants to be min 6" off of the ground.

 

[tigdlo]

neighbour had a felt roof hes put a metal roof on top

my advice stick to the cheap felt and just screw the metal roof on top as then you have 2 protections before water gets through that roof

Makes it easy to make an overhang too, to keep some rainwater off the walls. I'm very sensitive to heat, the battens create an air gap which helped a lot even before I insulated and plaster boarded the inside, the overhang also shades some of the walls.