Yeh my wife has an embroidery machine which I’ve been delegated to servicing over the years, the bobin tension is one of cost common things to cause problems.
Interesting - which did you fit, and was it straightforward. I have several industrial machines - and teh one with the servo motor seems to have byfar the most torque. I was considering replacing the clutch motor witha servo on teh zigzag machine - for sewing multiple layers of webbing. That and/or a pair of pulleys to reduce the speed and increase torque.
I must apologise unreservedly - that must be the first time anythings ever been duplicated in a thread....There seems to be an echo in here.
I must apologise unreservedly - that must be the first time anythings ever been duplicated in a thread....
Instructions say to hold it by the thread and 5-10cm should unwind under gravity, where as almost nothing was coming out before. Please let me know if theres a better/more reliable way to check/set it.
I disagree - the tension on thick stuff will be completely different (More tension required for thick or sticky stuff) than for T-Shirts.. I can agree with the sentiment though - what you describe above would show a matched tension. You don't want to see much of the 'other side' colour, as they should join between the two surfaces.
It shows very clearly if the tensions are equal during setting up, far more than thinner fabrics would, although your point is a good one. I rarely sew anything lighter than decent vinyl anyway though and my Seiko is designed so to do.
I've rescued quite a few elderly singer machines and got them going, they're built to last forever really. They work very well, tho I prefer the hand cranked option to the elec motor.. I mainly use them for patching up boiler suits
On the Soviet copy of this machine, with a manual drive, I sewed everything, including tarpaulin and leather 1.5 mm thick.By coincidence, I picked one up the other day too.
Was visiting my ex and she said do I want an old Singer sewing machine.
Glad I said yes. It's mint! Seems to have all the accessories, manuals and even the receipt! Pictures don't do it justice though it will need some refurbishment in the wiring where the insulation has turned to snot.
I was unsure if this thread would get any replies, 3rd page already
Oh good one
!! Yes this is good advice. I've never had it jam the bobbin before, but it does make the underside look untidy.Wow - what sort of needle were you using to go through that amount of leather!!
The needles have numbers. The manual drive allows you to develop a good effort to pierce the skin. In poor times, I had to make myself a winter jacket with fur. The raw material was torn at the seams, rather large bags for carrying ski boots. In a planned economy, these new bags in a sports shop cost less than the leather they were made from. Sleeve type - raglan, style - patchwork + perforation and weaving into the holes of leather laces and a set of warm gloves in the same style. It would look good today. Colors are dark green and light brown. Parachute nylon fabric lining, fur layer with a separate ziplock closure. I was young then, naive, but my arms still grow from my shoulders, not from my ass, so... And so on, you want a cool backpack for hiking on volcanoes? Get some materials somewhere and sew it yourself, you need strong pants, sew them yourself, re-dye the fabric with aniline dye and everything like that.
Hand sewing leather you first make a hole with an awl. This is triangular, so pushes the fibres aside rather than tearing them, then you use two needles, one at each end of the thread (often waxed linen). Youngsters today drill the holes with a pillar drillLeather hand sewing needles have a triangular point to pierce the material. Heavy grade leather needles for machines are available something like 90/14 up to 110/18 with a piercing point rather than round. I use 100/16 needles for sewing heavy denim but they are standard point.
