Sandringham 6x6

[northwest]

I'm basically after a brand new 0 miles engine and be done with it.

Bothe @Tinbasherdan and I knew where there were two, still in their crates along with transmissions. Pal of mine had them along with three 110's and a number of bodies to swap as needed (field ambulance, radio truck etc.) He died and I don't think he was buried and the lot disappeared!

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Bothe @Tinbasherdan and I knew where there were two, still in their crates along with transmissions. Pal of mine had them along with three 110's and a number of bodies to swap as needed (field ambulance, radio truck etc.) He died and I don't think he was buried and the lot disappeared!

It’s worse, they were 101s not 110s!

 

[sako243]

If they were 101's then it's unlikely they'd have been 4.6s - more likely 3.5s.

@Smallfry yeah top hat liners - they did a trial hone and they got a fairly decent pattern but not perfect showing some wear so as I'm fed up of chasing vehicle niggles it's had:
- Top hat liners
- New cam bearings
- New cam
- Crank ground (some slight marks which didn't quite polish out)
- New mains
- New big ends
- New pistons (again slight wear, they'd have gone again but weren't perfect)
- Block decked after liners were pressed in
- Thoroughly flushed and cleaned

Basically everything has been refreshed on it and all new bits to go in including core plugs etc.

Hopefully doing it once and doing it right. Aside from my labour (which of course is free) it's worked out quite a bit cheaper than buying a short block via Turners. Well making them do the work.

 

[Smallfry]

If they were 101's then it's unlikely they'd have been 4.6s - more likely 3.5s.

@Smallfry yeah top hat liners - they did a trial hone and they got a fairly decent pattern but not perfect showing some wear so as I'm fed up of chasing vehicle niggles it's had:
- Top hat liners
- New cam bearings
- New cam
- Crank ground (some slight marks which didn't quite polish out)
- New mains
- New big ends
- New pistons (again slight wear, they'd have gone again but weren't perfect)
- Block decked after liners were pressed in
- Thoroughly flushed and cleaned

Basically everything has been refreshed on it and all new bits to go in including core plugs etc.

Hopefully doing it once and doing it right. Aside from my labour (which of course is free) it's worked out quite a bit cheaper than buying a short block via Turners. Well making them do the work.

Very sensible with the liners anyways. Its an expensive solution but well worth it if you want to keep the vehicle.

I have a low mileage 4.0 that I might convert to 4.6 as I have all the bits, but probably won't due to fuel consumption. I plan to use my 90 as a daily when eventually done, but I am going down the M57 route for more mpg. They have similar performance figures as the V8 anyway.

I also have a low mileage 1UZ but IMO not really suited to a LR, especially if towing. M57 will be way better in that respect because of the torque. I will either sell it, or possibly stick it in my old Rover coupe, as it will suit that much better, as the UZ is set up for a luxury car, and to get more out of it is a very, very expensive exercise. Good thing about them though, is that they are a fit and forget option, unlike a used RV8. Only problem with the standard ECU and electrics, is fragile old component plugs, and capacitors in the ECU, which I know you can deal with, whereas I can't.

 

[sako243]

Not had much time to work on anything engine related but I made a start.

The longest 3/8UNC bolts I could find were about 3" long and didn't offer much engagement with the block through my engine stand. Rather than modify my engine stand @Bowie69 made a useful suggestion about welding it onto something else.

Conveniently I've got four offcuts of M16 bolts from a work project that are just the right length.



A nut was welded onto the end of the offcuts (after parting off the nyloc bit) then the new bolt was bored to 9.5mm which was a nice press fit for the shank of the 3/8UNC bolt I had. Splattered some weld around the joint and then whizzed off a bit of the OD of the threaded portion of the M16 so it was a nice slip fit through the engine stand bracket.



One down three to go, could have used a normal bolt I guess but being somewhat Scottish I thought the offcuts were too ideal to use and would otherwise just be sat in the box of potentially useful stuff later.

 

[sako243]

Three more made somewhat faster.

The use of a 9.5mm self-piloting Dewalt Extreme 2 drill bit, grinder to the bolt heads and welding the M16 nut last (and acquiring some plain nuts today).



Lathe finally got a bit of a clean up and half of a 20kg feed sack filled with swarf from the back of the lathe.