Rust treating leaf springs

  1. Al Strachan

    Al Strachan Member

    Messages:
    177
    Location:
    insch aberdeenshire
    Hello oh learned ones :)

    I'm currently renovating my trusty old ifor williams, and all is well, but the leaf springs are quite rusty and i was hoping to get them as clean and rust free as possible before a lick of paint.

    I have a nice VAT of phosporic that i use for most things, and working my through various rusty bits, but i'm not sure on the leaf springs.

    they are 5 leaf springs and i have them split into individuals. I'm well aware of the risks of hydrogen embrittlement, so its my undertsanding that these shouldnt get a dip for any length of time. I have them cleaned up mechanically as best i can, but was wondering if it would be ok to just give them a quick scrub with phosphoric/wire brush/scotchpad etc. will this still potentilly wreck them?

    AL
     
  2. hotponyshoes Member

    Messages:
    2,082
    Location:
    Somerset. Uk
    Wire brush in a drill then grease all over them.
    Paint will wear off at the edges as soon as they start bouncing.
     
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  3. RWD3M

    RWD3M Member

    Messages:
    645
    Location:
    Wiltshire, UK
    Hi Al,

    Get you with your hydrogen embrittlement! Are you in Aerospace or Oil and Gas (probably a daft question given your location :))?

    As hotponyshoes says a brush and then a good greasing. I have leaf springs all round on my 1936 Morris that received the grease treatment when I had them made a few years ago and not only does it keep the rust at bay but improves the ride (barely noticeably!) and quietens them down (I know, not really that important on a trailer but all the same...).
     
    Al Strachan likes this.
  4. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    North Wales
    I'm doing the same thing at the moment. All the components, axles, hubs, brake backplates, leaf springs have been stripped and will be media blasted. I've found plain old vinegar works surprisingly well on rusty fasteners and all the small fiddly brake components that actuate and adjust the shoes. I've done a few of these IW trailers now.
    put whatever you can in a tub of vinegar for four or five days and you'll be surprised. Once you remove them, they need to be washed thoroughly, then coated to prevent corrosion, which happens rapidly after the vinegar bath. I wash them, dry them, then put them all in a tub of engine oil for a while.

    Once all the components are back from blasting, theyre coated with Buzzweld 2K armour paint, reassembled, then all fixings/hardware coated with a product called LPS3. It's a tacky, persistent corrosion inhibitor. Stays where you spray it and ends up looking like the clear (actually straw-coloured) waxoyl. it stops rust and lasts a good while. Once every few months, or realistically once a year, I wash the underside (mines a tiltbed) and then spray liberally with more LPS3.


    https://www.techsil.co.uk/lps3-rust-inhibitor-380ml

    https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/2k-epoxy-armour-primer-corrosion-stabilising.html




    Here's my tiltbed mid-refurb, complete with mandatory "safety bag of fertiliser" to stop it falling on me!

    IMG_1820.jpg
     
  5. 8ob

    8ob Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    5,176
    Location:
    moscow on thames
    Greased/oiled up and wrapped in Denso tape used to be the order of the day when god was a boy, the tape would keep the grit and water out and stop it turning into grinding paste between the leafs.

    Bob
     
  6. rtcosic

    rtcosic Member

    Denso tape? Streuth Noah must have retired by then. If you were too mean to buy the proper leather gaiters then whipping them with cord was the the accepted method when Noah still wore short pants and drove a Series Land Rover.
     
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  7. gordon stephenson

    gordon stephenson Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,652
    Location:
    Skelton in Cleveland U.K.
    X2 for Denso Tape, Wonderful stuff for all sorts of problems, Denso paste also available, I still have a couple of tubs "somewhere"
     
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  8. arther dailey Member

    Messages:
    3,724
    Location:
    Southampton England
    old engine oil mixed with a little parrafin, ounce a year works for me.
     
    Al Strachan likes this.
  9. Al Strachan

    Al Strachan Member

    Messages:
    177
    Location:
    insch aberdeenshire
    some great info, thanks people. grease/goo waxoyl type stuff it is!!

    @RWD3M - close, oil and gas yes, mainly ships, so very familiar with Denso tape, not so with hydrogen embrittlement, thats a google thing :ashamed:

    i have some dinitrol stuff lying about soemwhere. i might just use that :)

    Al
     
    RWD3M likes this.
  10. Melvyn Best Member

    Messages:
    319
    Location:
    Cambridge
    I once had a tool, a cross between a g clamp and a nut splitter with a grease nipple , the splitter opened up the leaves when the g clamp was tightened then using a grease gun ,lubricated between the leaves. I’ve also seen gaiters for leaf springs to stop dirt etc possibly made of leather?
     
  11. brightspark

    brightspark Member

    Messages:
    28,884
    Location:
    yarm
    don't grease them they will be as bouncy as hell :laughing:and make them sag under load
     
  12. awemawson Forum Supporter

    The old trick was to cut strips of zinc sheet and interleave them with the springs. Zinc mind, not galvanised mild steel. Was said to make the springs slightly softer but last longer.
     
  13. Woody.v8

    Woody.v8 Blue gluer

    Messages:
    3,246
    Location:
    staffs
    I've had my leafs for the stockcar zinc plated so I'll let you know with extreme product testing if hydrogen embrittlement is an issue :laughing:
    20200208_004506.jpg
     
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  14. brightspark

    brightspark Member

    Messages:
    28,884
    Location:
    yarm
    a lot more will go before the springs jack in :(:)not at the moment though :)
     
  15. arther dailey Member

    Messages:
    3,724
    Location:
    Southampton England
    interesting, is it very expensive zinc coating?
     
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  16. Woody.v8

    Woody.v8 Blue gluer

    Messages:
    3,246
    Location:
    staffs
    I won't like your comment because it's sad but true, on the plus side I've got some time to engineer some speed into the job:thumbup:
     
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  17. Woody.v8

    Woody.v8 Blue gluer

    Messages:
    3,246
    Location:
    staffs
    No its relatively inexpensive that lot fit on a rail and it cost £60
     
  18. arther dailey Member

    Messages:
    3,724
    Location:
    Southampton England
    thats a good price , cheers.
     
  19. Rannsachair

    Rannsachair Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,273
    Location:
    Lochgilphead, Argyll, Scotland
    That is what I did with my old Jeep Cherokee, still have a couple of rolls somewhere.
     
    8ob likes this.
  20. the artfull-codger Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    north yorkshire england
    I've got the same tool mine's ex WD
     
    gordon stephenson likes this.
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