Can't speak for the Lechler mate but the Rustbuster and this one are safe http://www.refinishsystems.com/product/754-199/HBBody125LEpoxyPrimerKit
- Thread starter Flapdisk
- Start date
The Lechler one is fine too, at least I hope so!! see http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=38806
Just with regards to Wallace's post, the recommended nozzle size for epoxymastic 121 is 1.5-1.9mm. Is there any downside to using a 0.8mm nozzle? I have a small compressor so a small touch up gun would be perfect for me! Does the smaller nozzle also give a finer finish? Would I be correct in saying it would just take longer to paint with? If so, I'll probably go down that route for spraying this stuff!
Sorry if this post sounds a little dumb... I have not used a spray gun before and am trying to do a bit of research before buying the kit! I was given the compressor for free
Sorry if this post sounds a little dumb... I have not used a spray gun before and am trying to do a bit of research before buying the kit! I was given the compressor for free
you will be wasting your time trying to spray their mastic 121 through a tip less than 1.8mm, i struggle to get a decent finish on my 2mm primer gun with it thinned to the max ratio!
their "custom epoxy primer" will spray out of a tip that size as its alot thinner and very close to viscosity of normal 2k high build primer (film thickness is slightly less mind) but you would have to go slow. its very good stuff, and once that custom epoxy is dry its seriously hardwearing and the bond between the steel and paint is crazy good (subject to it being prepped correctly)
im moving over to the letchler stuff but only because its compatible with their high build primer (ie, one the epoxy is sprayed you have a window in which you can fire off their high build primer over it negating the need to sand, and if you have ever sanded fully hard custom epoxy its not easy)
their "custom epoxy primer" will spray out of a tip that size as its alot thinner and very close to viscosity of normal 2k high build primer (film thickness is slightly less mind) but you would have to go slow. its very good stuff, and once that custom epoxy is dry its seriously hardwearing and the bond between the steel and paint is crazy good (subject to it being prepped correctly)
im moving over to the letchler stuff but only because its compatible with their high build primer (ie, one the epoxy is sprayed you have a window in which you can fire off their high build primer over it negating the need to sand, and if you have ever sanded fully hard custom epoxy its not easy)
Wallace
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- Staines, Middlesex, England.
Thinned to the maximum ratio the Epoxy Mastic 121 through a 0.8mm nozzle is perfect for the job I have been doing. It is time consuming but there are a lot of nooks and crannies to get into and the minimal overspray is a real bonus as the workshop isn't covered in paint dust.
Don't know how small your compressor/ tank is, but it would make sense, bearing in mind the cost of the primer and thinners, to invest in a spray gun such as
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gravity-S..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4d0e7c5ddb
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500cc-Gra...t=UK_Home_Power_Air_Tools&hash=item4d047483af
Or one f the 1.2 set up mini guns.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gravity-S..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4d0e7c5ddb
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500cc-Gra...t=UK_Home_Power_Air_Tools&hash=item4d047483af
Or one f the 1.2 set up mini guns.
Thanks for the replies guys!
Anjum, the compressor is a little 24L 1.5hp one, so it should be OK for what i need to do with it, which is an engine bay. I'm planning on getting a couple of cheap guns like you've shown and having a little experiment before spraying anything important.
I had just not considered a touch up gun as i was only looking at the recommended nozzle size, so it's good to hear that it's an option. Wallace, what is the finish/thickness like through that nozzle? The most key area im painting is where the VIN number has been stamped - from the factory its a cream coloured e-coat, that was masked off before the car went down the paint line, so this is what I would like to replicate - I'm hoping to be able to spray epoxymastic thinly enough to leave the stamping visible, while still providing good rust protection. Once fully thinned down, do you think a light coat through a touch up gun would be suitable for this?
Aaran, I did look at the 421 but it doesn't come in the colour i was after. I think for the price of a cheap touch up gun i will give it a try. As i said, the key bit is the VIN stamping so if i do just that with a touch up gun and wet+dry/polish it back to a nice finish, then spray the rest of the engine bay with a normal gun with a bigger tip that might work. I'm not worried about how long it takes tbh.
Time to invest in some gear I think
Anjum, the compressor is a little 24L 1.5hp one, so it should be OK for what i need to do with it, which is an engine bay. I'm planning on getting a couple of cheap guns like you've shown and having a little experiment before spraying anything important.
I had just not considered a touch up gun as i was only looking at the recommended nozzle size, so it's good to hear that it's an option. Wallace, what is the finish/thickness like through that nozzle? The most key area im painting is where the VIN number has been stamped - from the factory its a cream coloured e-coat, that was masked off before the car went down the paint line, so this is what I would like to replicate - I'm hoping to be able to spray epoxymastic thinly enough to leave the stamping visible, while still providing good rust protection. Once fully thinned down, do you think a light coat through a touch up gun would be suitable for this?
Aaran, I did look at the 421 but it doesn't come in the colour i was after. I think for the price of a cheap touch up gun i will give it a try. As i said, the key bit is the VIN stamping so if i do just that with a touch up gun and wet+dry/polish it back to a nice finish, then spray the rest of the engine bay with a normal gun with a bigger tip that might work. I'm not worried about how long it takes tbh.
Time to invest in some gear I think
Wallace
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- Staines, Middlesex, England.
The finish is excellent, has built up very thick and could pass for powder coating. As the paint was being applied so slowly with the 0.8mm gun I was concerned about dry spray lines but seems to smooth itself out and absorb any created. I also gave up being too concerned about creating runs, again down to the speed of application.
I understand what you are trying to replicate and the 121 paint might be too thick. If the VIN number is completely cleaned of old paint with paint stripper and not shot blasted so the stamping edges are crisp the 121 might be ok. Perhaps if the paint was overthinned a little and applied lightly in that small area you could achieve the finish you are looking for without overfilling the stampings. I would experiment on a similar scrap VIN number before painting the car just in case but as the paint and thinners are not cheap it could be an expensive test!
I understand what you are trying to replicate and the 121 paint might be too thick. If the VIN number is completely cleaned of old paint with paint stripper and not shot blasted so the stamping edges are crisp the 121 might be ok. Perhaps if the paint was overthinned a little and applied lightly in that small area you could achieve the finish you are looking for without overfilling the stampings. I would experiment on a similar scrap VIN number before painting the car just in case but as the paint and thinners are not cheap it could be an expensive test!
Thanks for the help Wallace, that's great I'll give a touch-up gun a try and if i dont get on with it then nevermind - you can never have enough tools! I already have the paint, and will use it everywhere else regardless - if i find it's too thick for this application ill have another hunt around for some standard epoxy primer that can be tinted to the correct colour.
Thanks!
I'll give a touch-up gun a try and if i dont get on with it then nevermind - you can never have enough tools! I already have the paint, and will use it everywhere else regardless - if i find it's too thick for this application ill have another hunt around for some standard epoxy primer that can be tinted to the correct colour.Thanks!
the custom 421 i had is not grey (even though it claims it is lol). or rather the part A is but the hardener is the treacle color and once its mixed its very close to their buff color (think i have used most of the color ranges)
here for an idea as to the shade of the 421 once dry
light grey high build primer (after i hand sanded that entire shell down outside and inside.....ball ache took me 700 hours to rebuild this car from a rotten pig):
i have pics of the buff 121 color mastic to on my crx i did a few years back for a comparison if needed
Cheers
here for an idea as to the shade of the 421 once dry
light grey high build primer (after i hand sanded that entire shell down outside and inside.....ball ache took me 700 hours to rebuild this car from a rotten pig):
i have pics of the buff 121 color mastic to on my crx i did a few years back for a comparison if needed
Cheers
I've also had no luck with emails to rust buster.
As a new customer I thought I might have a response by now being a week later. I emailed them to ask about their epoxy 121 & the rust converter & recommendations on what to use for different jobs on my Range Rover Classic etc.
As a new customer I thought I might have a response by now being a week later. I emailed them to ask about their epoxy 121 & the rust converter & recommendations on what to use for different jobs on my Range Rover Classic etc.
Burdekin
Chief Bodger
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I rang the guy and he was very helpful I thought. I think I spoke to the owner when I rang so he may be a 1 man show, and therefore replying to e-mails might be a tough ask when busy.
Do you realise 121 is just rebadged Jotun Jotamastic Smart Pack and Jotun is considerably cheaper? Jotamastic 80 or 87 would be a better choice. I've used the rust converter and thought it was good stuff. It leaves a black primer type coating on the steel after it has worked and can be overpainted if you like. Probably a good product to spray in old chassis rails and then a good cavity wax over the top.
