Roller shutter security - how to?

[dan.taylor.1]

Hi folks,

Looking for recommendations how to secure a big (3.6m^2) roller shutter door on my workshop. I don't want anything that will stick up in the floor as I often roll things in and out of it on little casters etc.

Any ideas?

Cheers

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Shoot bolts in through the side and deep into the side walls.

Is it a power shutter?

Run a isolator to a distance part of workshop.

 

[taxi ray]

Roller shutters, are not really easy to secure, you can buy locks that you weld onto the frame and when locked they stop the shutter from being raised.
The firm where I worked was broken into a couple of times, they just pulled 1 side of the shutter out of the runners.

 

[Tupers]

These work quite well. It’s basically a piece of 90mm box with a 15mm bar welded through it and concreted in. There’s another piece that loops backwards onto the bar and forwards onto the bottom of the door.

They’re pretty basic but make it harder to slide a bar under the door and lift it.

 

[Ruffian]

Floor locks are on a 90degree push in and twist.

That way can easily remove and not interfere.
This style as then fixed to the door but can be removed from the floor.

If door is wide can use multiple and stops Jack's being used to force the bottom of the door up.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221982380000

 

[Ashley Burton]

I used garage door locks, Where the pins horizontally lock into the frame

 

[jimbo84]

The units with roller shutters on my yard all have steel bar gates (the big 100x100 box section type) that close across the front of them.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Shoot bolts in through the side and deep into the side walls.

Is it a power shutter?

Run a isolator to a distance part of workshop.

I'd thought about some simple bolts into the side rails (it's sat on the back flange of two big channels that form the opening and go right up to the portal frame so no walls really) As for the switch, yes just a simple 240v up and down direct to the motor, could I fit an isolator that needs a key to work in the feed? Don't really want to run a switch to the back of the workshop.

Floor locks are on a 90degree push in and twist.

That way can easily remove and not interfere.
This style as then fixed to the door but can be removed from the floor.

If door is wide can use multiple and stops Jack's being used to force the bottom of the door up.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221982380000

Might be me being thick but I'm struggling to see how that works?!

The units with roller shutters on my yard all have steel bar gates (the big 100x100 box section type) that close across the front of them.

May just keep parking the tractor in front of it, won't be moving that with the bucket lifting the front wheels a bit!

 

[Ruffian]

Core drill the floor,
Place the socket into the floor and concrete it in.

Then you have a socket, a insert able plug which locks in place and then the matching eyelet on the door and padlock them both together.

Usually mounted on the inside as to prevent getting the door open but this is what they are like.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Obvious now I see it! Are they usually insurance rated or is it something that's diyable? Do 6ou fit them or something?

 

[mtt.tr]

Im going put a garage defender on my small roller door.

Just waiting for my stainless bits to come back from the laser cutters

 

[Ruffian]

Obvious now I see it! Are they usually insurance rated or is it something that's diyable? Do 6ou fit them or something?

Not sure about insurance rated but know they can be a bugger to get off especially with a decent padlock.
Disc cutter is the only way and even then can be awkward.

Dont fit them for a living but have fitted probably 8 or so on 6 roller shutters. (Coupke doubled up)

Anything that makes it harder to get in to is worth doing in my eyes.

We got a decent core drill sensible size (80mm) drop a bit of rebar in and then the socket level with the floor, then fill the space with concrete. (Just make sure you get it lined up the right way when the insert is rotated)

 

[awemawson]

Most roller shutters can be pierced with a fork lift and just ripped open. I've had heavy duty galvanised ones and link mesh ones, shoot bolts through the slats, hasps to the floor, but none are totally secure against a determined person.

I've had them forced by scroats, and on one occasion ripped off by the Fire Service !

 

[mtt.tr]

Most roller shutters can be pierced with a fork lift and just ripped open. I've had heavy duty galvanised ones and link mesh ones, shoot bolts through the slats, hasps to the floor, but none are totally secure against a determined person.

I've had them forced by scroats, and on one occasion ripped off by the Fire Service !

Local shop they used a metal cutting circ saw cut a new hole

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Most roller shutters can be pierced with a fork lift and just ripped open. I've had heavy duty galvanised ones and link mesh ones, shoot bolts through the slats, hasps to the floor, but none are totally secure against a determined person.

I've had them forced by scroats, and on one occasion ripped off by the Fire Service !

Yeah I know what you mean, they'd have to start our loader up and use that tbh as access is via a long lane, past several houses who would question a forklift driving past in the night, then into a yar with dogs via a locked gate (not to mention a steep concrete ramp that a fl probably wouldn't get up!) then move the tractor that usually blocks the quad bike in next to my workshop, and partially blocking the roller shutter, I'm more worried about them levering it up or open, side rails are far too deep to lever I think so it's up that's the issue.

 

[Brad93]

Always used the Enfield type locks at either side

 

[Agrismith]

Tbh unless you have good security on the tractor with loader that is what they will be using to open the roller shutter
And they really don't take alot of bend to pop them out the rails and they bend suppressingly easily
A heavy duty gate across the bottom 3 foot will stop most things as however you want to attack them it is easiest to start with bottom
I have seen several done on one farm not by theives just by people driving into them and they are nowhere near as strong as you would think
One of the doors was rarely opened higher than pedestrian access required and a forklift with dodgy handbrake completely destroyed it

 

[awemawson]

If you have a loader to shift them, cast big concrete blocks and place them in front of the roller, it’ll stop everyone unless they can get the loader running

 

[DAPPH]

I used garage door locks, Where the pins horizontally lock into the frame

Slip a spade under in the middle then a lever on a couple of bricks & pop the slide side bolts are over come or slip a decent scissor jack in so they can be bent up enough a for skinny scrote to crawl in underneath & work at the door unseen with a battery grinder stolen from elswhere .

I've often put a heavy steel bracket/box on the wall using chemical anchors , where a chain opener is used even on the motorised roller doors you often get the manual chain opener incase the power fails . So that the chain runs through the box & is pulled down to compress the slats & the chain is pad locked into the bracket . Putting magnets at left right & centre across the bottom of the roller then putting magnetic reed switches in the concrete ,not on it . Then connecting them up to the alarm system . Though if some one is determined they'll just ram rid the place and rip the roller door right out in a matter of seconds .

 

[bricol]

I bolted in three places across the inside of the door, a vertical piece up the lower few slats, with a horizontal hole through (actually a bit of tube welded to it). When closed, the tube fits between two bits of the same tube welded to a flat plate - in three places across the inside of the opening. I then shove a 12mm bolt through the three bits of tube in each location- don't bother with locks as if they are in to deal with the locks, theres more than enough tools to sort them in there. Hopefully that arrangement slows down the lifting or simple pushing in of the door at the bottom.

So in three places across the door, there are small sections with a small raised bit - and a loose bolt where I left if when I pulled them out to open it. Doesn't interfere with coming and going.

Didn't like the sunken anchors - I was sure I could anchor them properly, and worried they would simply fill with crap - much like the recesses in the ground for the vertical bolts on my gates.