Ripidor Power Hacksaw Mods

[123hotchef]

dont even bother with the dashpot. the blades last ages without . it i presume you have the blade cutting in the forward motion

That would save grief I suppose. Yes it cuts on the forward stroke ie blade cutting as it comes towards me if I am standing in the front of the saw

 

[prepman]

I have used 10/40 in there right now, whats 1000/5w?

An impossible dream Its' something that has constant viscosity from the surface of Mercury to the frozen wastes of Neptune I never put pressure on the hacksaw on the back stroke, so I didn't want the Rapidor to either. The dashpot was dry when I got it. Might give marginally more life to the blade having it working, but I can't really substantiate that.

 

[123hotchef]

well if I leave these weights on I think I will need the dashpot working!

 

[MattF]

What's up with the dashpot?

 

[123hotchef]

What's up with the dashpot?

nothing it worked too good and slowed the cutting down too much so it didnt want to cut without some help from me leaning on the bow!

 

[MattF]

Have you got it adjusted properly? The bow should only take around 5 seconds to fall, just under its own weight.

 

[123hotchef]

TBH I did not know what properly adjusted was.
So are you saying 5 seconds from when I take it of of the bow stay to the bottom

 

[MattF]

Around that, yes. It's only to dampen the fall of the bow, not to suppress it. I'll see if I have a photo of one roughly adjusted.

 

[123hotchef]

It was cutting fine when it was empty! as BS said.

 

[MattF]

Roughly this setting seemed fine on one of mine. It'd have had 10/40 oil in the pot.



Just open the gap more to speed its fall.

 

[123hotchef]

Roughly this setting seemed fine on one of mine. It'd have had 10/40 oil in the pot.

View attachment 330740

So it is that bottom screw I need to adjust is it? I have 10/40 used engine oil in mine!

 

[MattF]

That round rod, with a slotted end, which sticks up aside the flat bar, is the adjuster. Screw it down, & it increases the gap between the disc & the ball.

That bottom screw & spring are just tensioning the plate.

You'll notice that there are around 6 holes through that ball. The bottom plate dictates how much oil can flow through them.

 

[123hotchef]

That round rod, with a slotted end, which sticks up aside the flat bar, is the adjuster. Screw it down, & it increases the gap between the disc & the ball.

That bottom screw & spring are just tensioning the plate.

thanks, so the greater the gap between the ball and washer the faster it will fall

 

[MattF]

thanks, so the greater the gap between the ball and washer the faster it will fall

Yes.

 

[123hotchef]

Yes.

Great I will have a fiddle with that later this week then.

 

[prepman]

Well with all the suds pump talk and the ancipated arrival of the pump for the Colchester I needed a couple of mods. An oil separator pot and a chuck guard. Chuck guard needs a stop and a little more modelling with the heat gun. Did all this on the ML7 many years ago. Both minor jobs tomorrow. The separator screws up into the drip tray drain (1-1/2bsp, which works) needs a tube to a receptacle off the central bolt. A minor addition. Pity website doesn't accept stl files.

 

[123hotchef]

Well with all the suds pump talk and the ancipated arrival of the pump for the Colchester I needed a couple of mods. An oil separator pot and a chuck guard. Chuck guard needs a stop and a little more modelling with the heat gun. Did all this on the ML7 many years ago. Both minor jobs tomorrow. The separator screws up into the drip tray drain (1-1/2bsp, which works) needs a tube to a receptacle off the central bolt. A minor addition. Pity website doesn't accept stl files.



View attachment 330846View attachment 330847View attachment 330849

My suds still shoots across the room with a similar style chuck guard!

 

[prepman]

My suds still shoots across the room with a similar style chuck guard!

It has to be cunningly shaped. It's the front edge that is the clincher. It sprays out tangentially at the bottom edge. Providing the drip tray covers this 'target area' then job's a good un. If not then it can be extended with a piece of thin plate.

 

[skotl]

I think I need to tighten the belt from motor too as it was slipping as it cit the box section

Yeah - mine was doing that, too. It was a hell of a job freeing up the washing machine motor (only joking) on the sled and move it along, which probably isn't surprising if it hasn't moved in 40 years.
I ended up moving it a good 4-5 inches back, which probably means I should have renewed the belts but it seems to be working far better now!

 

[123hotchef]

It has to be cunningly shaped. It's the front edge that is the clincher. It sprays out tangentially at the bottom edge. Providing the drip tray covers this 'target area' then job's a good un. If not then it can be extended with a piece of thin plate.

Mine drips onto the main carriage wheel then onto the floor now.