- Thread starter J.F
- Start date
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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- 7,749
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- Teesside, England
Diesel pump on the back of the engine caused my mate to do a body lift after a bolt snapped and he couldn't get in to drill it out.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
- Messages
- 7,749
- Location
- Teesside, England
On the Spitfire, Herald and Vitesse you'd remove the papier mache transmission tunnel and take the gearbox out through the passenger door
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
- Messages
- 7,749
- Location
- Teesside, England
My nephew has a BMW Mini: my brother tells me front suspension bushes are a pain in the parts.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,202
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- Going Away.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,759
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- Cumbria
I can't really think that they're any worse than any other make for replaceing suspension bushes.
One really handy feature is the bolted lower balljoint. Makes separating the strut 10 times easier.
Pigeon_Droppings2
Member
- Messages
- 6,448
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- london
Volvos are the worst for this....if I want to do a job on my XC70/V70 the first thing I do is try to work out what new tools I need to buy.
It took me hours to remove the gearbox valve body cover on the XC70 only because they had use twit bolts (sorry Torx) which had either rusted out or you couldn't access and so the subframe had to be lowered.
Needless to say I threw all their bolts in the bin and replaced with stainless hex....which was fortunate as I had to do the job again but the second time around it took 1/4 of the time.
As for volvo electrics....don't even look at a connector without having their version of the reset computer handy! Did a diesel pump....unplugged the seatbelt (remembered to disconnect the battery of course...I'm not a fool!)....fitted new pump....decided to test the car would start before closing the job up....oops I am a fool!
It took me hours to remove the gearbox valve body cover on the XC70 only because they had use twit bolts (sorry Torx) which had either rusted out or you couldn't access and so the subframe had to be lowered.
Needless to say I threw all their bolts in the bin and replaced with stainless hex....which was fortunate as I had to do the job again but the second time around it took 1/4 of the time.
As for volvo electrics....don't even look at a connector without having their version of the reset computer handy! Did a diesel pump....unplugged the seatbelt (remembered to disconnect the battery of course...I'm not a fool!)....fitted new pump....decided to test the car would start before closing the job up....oops I am a fool!
gordon stephenson
Member
- Messages
- 7,473
- Location
- Skelton in Cleveland U.K.
On the Spitfire, Herald and Vitesse you'd remove the papier mache transmission tunnel and take the gearbox out through the passenger door
The good old Herald/vitess, I have had a few, As stated, for a clutch change only underneath job was to remove four bolts from the tin panel covering the bottom section of the bell housing, clutch plate about the size of a saucer, six and a half inch if I remember correctly, Mind you had to spend a bit of time underneath, replacing or repairing the chassis out-riggers which were not very robust,
Cobbler
Codger bodger
- Messages
- 8,007
- Location
- Gloucestershire UK
I had a 1600 Vitesse, anything that could possibly break, did! Lovely smooth engine though. The early Vitesses had the dip switch on a column stalk, similar to modern practice, turned the lights on via a dash switch & then selected side - dip - main on the stalk. Great in theory, except on dipping the lights, the tendency was to go straight through the dip position & find yourself on sidelights! I recall that Triumph soon changed that system to a dip-main switch. I sold the Triumph for a knackered MGA, but that’s another story. Everything I had in those days was knackered, too little money.
EDIT being as we are supposed to be discussing fasteners, the Vitesse lost a front wheel one day ......
EDIT being as we are supposed to be discussing fasteners, the Vitesse lost a front wheel one day ......
Saab 99 and 900 similar remove a plastic cover and the clutch is easy to access 1 shaft to pull free, even the concentric clutch slave cylinder was easy and could be bled in situ. Removing the bonnet was easy for 2 of you the pivot bolts undid and came out without changing any of the alignment settings. (Turbo was a bit different had to have the rad out on mine.)
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
- Messages
- 13,094
- Location
- CX near Chesterfield
On the Spitfire, Herald and Vitesse you'd remove the papier mache transmission tunnel and take the gearbox out through the passenger door
A dolomite had the same setup, we did a clutch in one without taking the gearbox out, disconnect the prop and move it to one side.
jerrytug
Member
- Messages
- 1,837
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- Isle of Wight
Yup my V70 needed some minor repairs. It was a big strong car, but went to banger racing because of that kind of hassle, what a waste.
RWD3M
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,646
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- Wiltshire, UK
Don't I know it! Got 1936 Morris 8 sat behind me here in the man cave!
I also have 73 GT6 that has four bolts (holding the brake calipers on) that are (IIRC) 12mm in diameter, have a 19mm head but a 7/16 UNF thread! Girling went metric in the early '70's and rather than drill out and tap the front hubs to M12, Triumph went to the trouble of having metric bolts made with an imperial thread. You try buying one when they need replacing!!!
EddyP
Member
- Messages
- 726
- Location
- Northants
My collection of tools is very extensive, recently I had to change the pads on my Volvo XC60, didn't have an Allen key that would fit the front calliper bolts, turns out it's a 9mm Allen key, and it needs to be a fairly long socket one so you can get into it!
