Reversing the taper in a steering arm.

[Morrisman]

I have adapted a Landrover steering box for my hot rod, and plan to use a drag link from the same. However, I discovered the taper for the track rod end is in the wrong side of the steering arm.

I planned to put it in my lathe and taper turn it on the other side, but it is too long.

So, any suggestions? I’m thinking of cutting it in a V shape and simply re-welding it the other way round. Obviously it needs to be a good weld. And maybe add a reinforcing strip to the back face.

It is designed for a vehicle twice the weight of mine, so there is an excess of strength in the arm to start with.

The steering rod is temporary and will be replaced with correct length.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

You could cut and weld it but someone will be along to point out that no welded modifications are allowed on steering components from an MOT perspective.

The other option would be to heat the whole thing to a dull red heat then reverse the crank offset so it bends the other way, allow it to cool slowly.

 

[merryman]

Yes, bend it hot so it sticks out far enough for the rod to clear the exhaust, or find a non tapered ball joint and drill/ream the taper out of the arm. Lots of non tapered ball joints out there, or fit a rose joint instead.

 

[pedrobedro]

You could cut and weld it but someone will be along to point out that no welded modifications are allowed on steering components from an MOT perspective.

Lots of kit cars go through IVA with welded and modified steering components and are subsequently passed at MOT. If they are done tidily and properly there is no problem with them.

 

[123hotchef]

I think I would fit a rose joint instead too

 

[8ob]

As above its not a problem to weld, just bare in mind its a thick forging that needs veeing out and a few amps so dont try it with a mini mig. It wont need any reinforcement and will grind up for an invisible repair.

Bob

 

[Luke]

I can't remember the details, but there's a difference between a discovery 1 and defender drop arm, that might solve your problem?

Off to do some research....

 

[Luke]

Looks like you've got the disco arm?

 

[Ton-up]

Is the steering box mounted? You are going to get a fair bit of bump steer with that set up at the moment. The steering box needs to be higher so the steering rod is parallel to the four bars.

As others have said, heating is preferable to welding.

 

[MattH]

Not knowing anything about Hotrods, is that the sum total of the shock top mount?

 

[Screwdriver]

To my untrained eye I would have thought a complex cut like that would be difficult to do well and even more difficult to weld, assuming there's anything left after you V it out. Surely a simple straight cut, properly chamfered would give you a much better chance of performing a good weld.

If you heat it and bend it you run the risk of distorting the splined eyes.

 

[gaz_moose]

if cut and shut steering arms by just copping them off square and mig welding them back together. assuming yours are cast steel.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Not knowing anything about Hotrods, is that the sum total of the shock top mount?

Me neither, but perhaps the transverse spring fulfils that function? Not sure what the part you mention is....

@Morrisman Could it be cut straight, turned, welded then sleeved?

 

[PhillipM]

I think he means that top shock mount is so flimsy it'll flex and bend any time the shock does any serious work.

The landy drop arms are cast steel, I weld to them all the time for the offroad lot - the MOT man won't like it though:

Personally I'd bolt a rose joint to it instead.

 

[MattH]

Me neither, but perhaps the transverse spring fulfils that function? Not sure what the part you mention is....

@Morrisman Could it be cut straight, turned, welded then sleeved?

Don't know if i'd want to hit to many potholes:

 

[Seadog]

That would get completely mangled the first time it bottomed.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Don't know if i'd want to hit to many potholes:

Potholes? On UK roads? Surely not.......

 

[Hood]

Potholes? On UK roads? Surely not.......

Ok ok, pop out of a pothole and hit some road.

 

[MattH]

@Morrisman sorry to take this off topic and I not poking fun. I just wondered.

 

[colnerov]

Hi, Multi leaf springs are quite heavily damped in themselves they don't need much extra dampening ie friction between the leaves.

Colin