recommend me a track saw?

[WorkshopChris]

My saw has a 1mm blade giving around 1.1mm kerf, not bothering with the offset is inconsequential given the errors in measurement, marking out and expansion and contraction of the wood in different seasons. I would expect your pencil marks would be around 1mm wide for a start!

All depends what level of finish you are expecting to achieve, one of the jobs i do is to build small mobile cabinets. If the sides and dividers are not all exactly the same length you end up with a visible gap somewhere.
If they need to be 750mm then 1mm over or under is not inconsequential, even only working +- 1mm you may end up with a 2mm gap, in my book a 2mm gap in a cabinet is big enough to park a bus in.
749mm to 751mm.

 

[bigegg]

All depends what level of finish you are expecting to achieve, one of the jobs i do is to build small mobile cabinets. If the sides and dividers are not all exactly the same length you end up with a visible gap somewhere.
If they need to be 750mm then 1mm over or under is not inconsequential, even only working +- 1mm you may end up with a 2mm gap, in my book a 2mm gap in a cabinet is big enough to park a bus in.
749mm to 751mm.

I read it as the 0.1mm difference?

 

[WorkshopChris]

I read it as the 0.1mm difference?

I took it as the blade thickness at 1mm and the comment about the pencil make being around 1mm.
Again i always know what side of the pencil make to cut to or if its the pencil mark that needs to disappear on a less critical cut.

 

[colaboy]

I have the Dewalt and I wouldn't be without it.
I've always found Festool gear to be be more suited to the workshop than the site.
I started down the Festool MFT route but ended up abandoning it.
The biggest breakthrough in accuracy was the 2.6m track, no joints, just a perfect straight line.

Paul

 

[colaboy]

I would expect your pencil marks would be around 1mm wide for a start!

Yes they would, which is why you use a knife instead of a pencil.


Paul

 

[WorkshopChris]

A 0.6mm retractable pencil is also good for accurate marking out.

 

[bigegg]

I took it as the blade thickness at 1mm and the comment about the pencil make being around 1mm.
Again i always know what side of the pencil make to cut to or if its the pencil mark that needs to disappear on a less critical cut.

apologies.
I misread.
on re-reading it does appear that tlovatt was referring to offset on the pencil line.

for some reason, I was thinking offset of blade edge for different thickness blades.

 

[bigegg]

hold on....

these track saws only have a 1mm thickness blade?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

hold on....

these track saws only have a 1mm thickness blade?

2mm is more standard

 

[WorkshopChris]

hold on....

these track saws only have a 1mm thickness blade?

Around 2.2mm would be around the normal.
I know some blade manufactures are producing thinner blades to help prolong battery life in cordless tools. Not sure about riving knives.

 

[bigegg]

A 0.6mm retractable pencil is also good for accurate marking out.

I like a knife. it cuts the grain, so you get less blow-out.

 

[colaboy]

I like a knife. it cuts the grain, so you get less blow-out.

Agreed.
I often do my initial layout with a 0.5mm propelling pencil, then for the final marking use the knife.
It always makes me cringe when you see people trying to be accurate with a joiner's pencil and a quarter of an inch wide point.
I suppose it all depends on how accurate you need to be.
If your'e doing things like hand cut dovetails, you really need a knife.

Paul

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Agreed.
I often do my initial layout with a 0.5mm propelling pencil, then for the final marking use the knife.
It always makes me cringe when you see people trying to be accurate with a joiner's pencil and a quarter of an inch wide point.
I suppose it all depends on how accurate you need to be.
If your'e doing things like hand cut dovetails, you really need a knife.

Paul

Generally keep a pencil sharpener in my pocket and for very accurate mark I fresh sharpened pencil is fine.
Been known to use a knife on occasion as required.

 

[tlovatt]

All depends what level of finish you are expecting to achieve, one of the jobs i do is to build small mobile cabinets. If the sides and dividers are not all exactly the same length you end up with a visible gap somewhere.
If they need to be 750mm then 1mm over or under is not inconsequential, even only working +- 1mm you may end up with a 2mm gap, in my book a 2mm gap in a cabinet is big enough to park a bus in.
749mm to 751mm.

But that is not what is in question, if you always cut in the same way you would always have the same error, also the example was fitting a kitchen sink which, as it would not be visible anyway, a 1mm gap would not matter as people will already be leaving a few mm gap anyway.

 

[tlovatt]

apologies.
I misread.
on re-reading it does appear that tlovatt was referring to offset on the pencil line.

for some reason, I was thinking offset of blade edge for different thickness blades.

I was indeed refering to the offset of the pencil line, unlike my circular saw which is almost 1 3/4 offset where I end up having to move all of the marks for a straight edge I would not bother for a track saw, if I really felt in necessary then I would just move the track slightly to account for the kerf of the tracksaw blade - but in reality it rarely matters when using a track saw due to the nature of the cuts

 

[tlovatt]

hold on....

these track saws only have a 1mm thickness blade?

You can get them, they cost a little more and you do have to be mindful that they are a bit more flexible than a thicker blade, but this normally only manifests itself if you are trying to cut too quickly when the blade can try to follow the gain a little.

 

[Hitch]

The nuts for kitchen fitting. One of those tools once you've used it you can't be without it. Like a multitool.

I used my mates track saw back along, I hadn't realised how easy they make a job until I'd used it. Tempted to buy one myself for a project I have in mind next year.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I used my mates track saw back along, I hadn't realised how easy they make a job until I'd used it. Tempted to buy one myself for a project I have in mind next year.

Made a poor mans Tracksaw before I'd heard of one from 12 and 18mm ply cutting edge was trimmed on a bevel to allow me to line cuts easier. Saw ran against a straight cut ply mounted to the side of saw chassis and butchered a couple of speed clamps to hold it down.
Worked well for breaking down plywood but nowhere near as versatile as a made for task Tracksaw.

 

[bigegg]

Made a poor mans Tracksaw before I'd heard of one from 12 and 18mm ply cutting edge was trimmed on a bevel to allow me to line cuts easier. Saw ran against a straight cut ply mounted to the side of saw chassis and butchered a couple of speed clamps to hold it down.
Worked well for breaking down plywood but nowhere near as versatile as a made for task Tracksaw.

that's what I've used for years, but 18mm fence + 3mm ply for base.
I got a piece of 3m ply purposely.

 

[tlovatt]

Rutlands have one at a nice price

https://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+power...ut-saw-with-1400mm-guide-rail-rutlands+xt3516

If you can live with a max 30mm depth of cut they have a small version

https://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+power...-plunge-cut-saw-with-1m-track-rutlands+xt3510

With both of the above (and the ones you have already looked at) you will also need some longer guide rails if you want to cut down 8' sheets