recommend me a track saw?

[bigegg]

I'm toying with the idea of buying a plunge/track saw to break down full sheets of 18mm max. ply

the amount ofof scaffold boards/worktops/doors which I cut don't necessitate that depth of cut being a consideration.

budget of c.£150 and top of the listlat the moment is the erbauer from Screwfix at £130, including 2x700mm rails, and 2x clamps.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb690csw-185mm-plunge-saw-240v/3875p

the triton at 109 quid is also a consideration, but comes with a rough cut blade, and no clamps.


alternatively, I could save for a while and buy a "Triton" for £180, but again, clamps are extra - and there's only one review.


another option could be a festool ts55 which I can pick up for around £150 second hand, not including rails.
rails could potentially add another £100, plus no warranty and if it *does* go wrong, repairs are £££

any other models I should be looking at?

Milwaukee don't appear to do a cordless M18 plunge saw, otherwise I'd be saving for that!

 

[drjim]

I got a probably bit out of your budget Makita one from powertool world. SP6000J with 2x 1.4M tracks. The saw itself is £259 new, I find that the 1.4M track is about the right length for most jobs, combined the two when I was building some cupboards recently, 70cm ones would need to be joined together all the time. If you can stretch budget get that saw and a track, you can always get another track later.

https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/brands/makita/makita-saws/makita-plunge-cut-saws


My most recent joiner who hung a load of doors for me had a festool one which he initially said was better than my Makita, however when we compared, they work exactly the same way and the Makita is just as good. His Brother (built my roof) has a dewalt. All equal quality.

 

[bigegg]

thanks for that.
the three from Screwfix are compatible with Makita tracks, so link (if nothing else) gives me a link for a cheaper 1400mm rail.

 

[J1nx]

‘Skill Builder’ is doing a series on YouTube currently, soon to do a big group test. Worth a watch although mainly the more expensive brands they have done the Erbauer.....

 

[Agrismith]

Another option is wait for lidl or aldi to have them at 70 quid

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I got a probably bit out of your budget Makita one from powertool world. SP6000J with 2x 1.4M tracks. The saw itself is £259 new, I find that the 1.4M track is about the right length for most jobs, combined the two when I was building some cupboards recently, 70cm ones would need to be joined together all the time. If you can stretch budget get that saw and a track, you can always get another track later.

https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/brands/makita/makita-saws/makita-plunge-cut-saws


My most recent joiner who hung a load of doors for me had a festool one which he initially said was better than my Makita, however when we compared, they work exactly the same way and the Makita is just as good. His Brother (built my roof) has a dewalt. All equal quality.

There really not.
They all cut as well as each other and do the job but owning both a ts55 and a dewalt the dewalt is worse to live with.
Little things like height adjustment knob being awkward and slow compared to the squeeze and move festool.
No positive location and stop for zero degrees..
Adjustment nuts made from chineasium. Stripped the hex first use.

That said I'm happy with the dewalt and it's got a bit more poke than the fes.

 

[Ashley Burton]

Can anyone explain the benefits of a track saw when you already own a circular saw?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Can anyone explain the benefits of a track saw when you already own a circular saw?

Laminated products they ensure a clean accurate cut both sides with minimal tear out.

Easy setup. Pencil mark each end and line the rail up each end no clamps required. Though clamps for the t slots are useful for multi passes on deep cuts.

Wouldn't be without mine.
Can even follow a curved scribe Line if its only shallow with practice.

 

[Ashley Burton]

@eLuSiVeMiTe Don't think I would use it enough to justify having one.

 

[drjim]

I bought mine because I wanted it. Was doing MDF panelling in our hall/landing and knew that with my other saw I seem to be incapable of cutting a straight line (changed blade since and it now goes straight!). I actually got most of my MDF cut to strip size at the timber merchants but used the track saw for all the adjustments - nice straight cuts done easily. I then started building some cupboards, trimming the bottom of doors post carpet fitters, and have used it loads. Well worth the money if only because I look at the quote from the builders to do all the panelling and build one part of the cupboards I made. divide that by 10 (!!!!) then that's the cost of my saw AND the MDF sheets. I also got to enjoy using it, adding to my Makita collection, and have it ready for next job - built in wardrobes for my son.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

@eLuSiVeMiTe Don't think I would use it enough to justify having one.

Aye.
For me its a must have. Flat roofs flooring. Laminate flooring, kitchens, worktops, bathrooms, furniture making, sheafing, it's out of the van at least twice a week. Skil saw has been out twice in 2 months.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I bought mine because I wanted it. Was doing MDF panelling in our hall/landing and knew that with my other saw I seem to be incapable of cutting a straight line (changed blade since and it now goes straight!). I actually got most of my MDF cut to strip size at the timber merchants but used the track saw for all the adjustments - nice straight cuts done easily. I then started building some cupboards, trimming the bottom of doors post carpet fitters, and have used it loads. Well worth the money if only because I look at the quote from the builders to do all the panelling and build one part of the cupboards I made. divide that by 10 (!!!!) then that's the cost of my saw AND the MDF sheets. I also got to enjoy using it, adding to my Makita collection, and have it ready for next job - built in wardrobes for my son.

Bought my festool 5 years ago. It paid for itself over the first 2 weeks. I was fitting bedrooms for Hammonds at the time. 3 day fits complete in two days and so on.

 

[Scruffywelder]

Another option is wait for lidl or aldi to have them at 70 quid

They're in our local Lidl right now

 

[mike os]

Depends on how much you are going to use it , ultimately cut quality is all about blade choice and sharpness.

I ended up with a ts 55, but given what I do cost is not that much of an issue. Go with one that will fit a major makers track, that way when the saw dies you can at least get a replacement

 

[tlovatt]

Can anyone explain the benefits of a track saw when you already own a circular saw?

They are a different tool for a different job - say you wanted to cut out a section in a worktop for a kitchen sink, using a track saw:

1. Mark out where you want the edges of the hole - no offsets needed, mark where you want the cut to be.
2. Lay the track in place, no need to worry about offsets as when you first get the saw the first cut trims the rubber at the edge of the rail so you know exactly where the blade will be. Also no clamps needed.
3. Plunge the saw through the worktop and slide forwards (and backwards a little) to cut into the corners, nice and straight guided by the rail.
4. Repeat for the other sides
5. Trim out the little bits left holding the bit of wood to be removed (due to the circular blade so the end of the cut is an arc)

There is no clamping, no difficulty trying to find something to attach the straight edge to in the middle of the work-surface, you get a nice clean straight cut and it is quick.

If I want to put a straight edge on some oak boards prior to planing I would use a circular saw and straight edge, for sheet material the track saw every time, its quicker, more accurate, better cut, less hassle and less risk of making a balls up.

 

[WorkshopChris]

2. Lay the track in place, no need to worry about offsets as when you first get the saw the first cut trims the rubber at the edge of the rail so you know exactly where the blade will be

You still need to watch your offset and make sure you place the track on the correct side of your mark.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

You still need to watch your offset and make sure you place the track on the correct side of your mark.

Indeed. When cutting sink/hob lengthways cuts track needs to be in the middle of the worktop so cut lines need to be bought in kerf thickness.

Even with a plunge saw I still cut from the back. Flip to trim the corners with a down cutter.

 

[indy4x]

Dont have one and dont have sufficient use to justify buying one (yes I know thats not a real excuse) but my brother has the Festool track saw and I borrowed it when fitting my kitchen and was really impressed. As per the comments above the adjustment really is a doddle and a pleasure to use.

He has had it a good few years and it is used nearly daily, still going strong

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Dont have one and dont have sufficient use to justify buying one (yes I know thats not a real excuse) but my brother has the Festool track saw and I borrowed it when fitting my kitchen and was really impressed. As per the comments above the adjustment really is a doddle and a pleasure to use.

He has had it a good few years and it is used nearly daily, still going strong

The nuts for kitchen fitting. One of those tools once you've used it you can't be without it. Like a multitool.

 

[tlovatt]

You still need to watch your offset and make sure you place the track on the correct side of your mark.

My saw has a 1mm blade giving around 1.1mm kerf, not bothering with the offset is inconsequential given the errors in measurement, marking out and expansion and contraction of the wood in different seasons. I would expect your pencil marks would be around 1mm wide for a start!