I could use a spacer that is sat on the LC behind but I defo will be doing the 2 sprockets 1 machined down etc. Doing it with a spacer doesent leave much thread but would work, buying one would be to expensive for me as im a poorper, turn one down in a lathe will take sod all time and me welding it together is not a problem.
Few main problems I need to get round soon are:
1 The exhausts, left side dont clear the swingarm and wanted to use what I got before I build a new set.
2 The left rearset wont fit, im glad as it puts me in a position to put another set on so not realy a problem.
3 Headlight bracket, on ebay all that seems to be on there are realy nasty ones, custom ones would cost me a fortune, seen some cnc brackets from M&P for £40 but not sure yet.
I see the problem, you have checked the centre of the wheel is on the frame centre?
If it is you are looking at making up a cup shape front sprocket, far from ideal but it will work.
Is there enough room/would it be possible to mount the rear sprocket on the inside of the REAR sprocket carrier flange? Maybe with a bit of machining?
The head lamp bracket you can buy 8mm steel rod and bend up a frame, then weld lugs to it. Using some aluminium flat plate you can cut out brackets to fit between the headlamp and frame you've made.
With you now, more than just the shock prob.
What would it take to centre the wheel and swing arm in the frame.
Something to consider about off setting the sprocket and that is extra load on the bearings.
Worry about exhaust after.
With you now, more than just the shock prob.
What would it take to centre the wheel and swing arm in the frame.
Something to consider about off setting the sprocket and that is extra load on the bearings.
Worry about exhaust after.
It will be ok, 5mm is nothing, there are a fair few RD's out there with alot more off set, im only running a 150 tyre but a few people are going 160 on zxr400 rear ends, there is a chap in the states with a massive 190 and his offset is huge, its quite a common thing with alot of hybrids and a fair few places do off set sprockets but not at a price I like.
Been playing more today. I cut two peices of bar 2" longer than the standard shock link/bones just to check my measurements before I get my link modded.
Right it now goes all the way down:
And also all the way up:
I was also scratching my head on the hight of the bike, it just did not look right so I mocked it up with the tank seat & pannel.
Too high
A little more tweaking and still a little higher than a standard RD, 5mm @ the front 10mm at the rear but I think its just right:
Now I have it at this stage I cut out the top shock mount ( what a pain in the rear to get the angle grinder in there )
Need to make a new top mount, I havent got a tube bender so a little stuffed at the moment but I will come up with something, did do a mock up of one in box but it looked rubbish, think its got to be tube.
Not much of an update but finaly got all the cones tacked together to check fit, just need each cone seam welded together.
This is my rough set and will be having a new set made when I get these finalised so I can have the cones press braked for better accuracy, they will then fit together alot better which will then make welding them much neater.
As you can see alot of my stuff is in storage in my brothers garage and am realy strugling to get things done or even find anything, but its not far off all mocked up.
never been a bike person but my best friend used to love his RD350YPVS had it until he stopped riding all together probably the fastest 90 mph i've ever been! scary ****
Just a little update with a few better pics. Finnished seam welding the cones today and done a better test fit. Just need to do the collers on the down pipes, stinngers & silencers.
I know it all looks rough but its all there and all working, finaly got the front end sorted out as it was 100% bent yokes. Pain in the wotsit machining all new spacers and getting everything to fit.
Ive taken it for a spin, few niggles, front end needs droping down about 20mm, need to redo loads on there like shortern the break pipes, need a speedo cable.
The motor is sound, the pipes are not designed for this engine so no bottom end at all, it pulls ok top end but need to get my tuned moter finished.
So couple of odd jobs Mot & Tax and she will be ridern.
Good stuff! Bet thats fun to ride. Made me want a go on one, had a Stan Stephens stage 2 LC to get nerves back after cracked neck. Great things, 'the smokers choice' ...
Nice job i used to own a F2 same colour as yours..I sent my engine off to stan for a stage 3 with welded crank, fitted 34mm flat slide carbs and a micron granx prix exhaust and a few other bits, I had the frame poweder coated and the rear arm chromed, And all the usual extras too, also polished up anything that could be polished too.
Got a few more jobs done today. My rear tyre arrived so getting that fitted tomorow and also going to book an Mot, ive taken it for another quick ride (private roads hounest) it all goes well.
Im in the middle of building my spair motor, port timing altered, rear ports matched to the front, bost port enlarged, all outer transfers tanken out as far as they can, inlets enlarged, 2 Boyesen ports drilled in per cylinder 10mm x 20mm (4 in total) transfer lip lowered to match preasure between both ports.
Crank will be trued & welded.
8mm reed spacers to clear bost ports, TZR/TDR reed block, RGV 32mm carbs, Head will be machined to 0.8mm squish with chamber recut back to original compresion.
Exhaust is my own design based on modded Jolly Moto pipes. They start making power just over 6k, peak 10200k and have a fair bit of over rev. No bottom end power at all.
Should have a min of 70 rwhp BUT if all goes well should do near 80 rwhp. I maybe under estamating this mind.....