Rapidor Power Hacksaw in need of tlc!

[brightspark]

Around here they're free at the Waitrose, and the Co-op!!

(Am only just sayin', of course!)

every little helps bad idea putting wheels on the saw unless there retractable they need to be on solid level ground otherwise there all over the show as there not that well balanced. i have wooden wedges under mine

 

[blacksmithstris]

lol yeah, I can just imagine trying to saw something with it on wheels, it moves enough already, it'd be making it's way around the place knocking into walls and equipment, might have a bit of a battle with my anvil though!!

 

[normspanners]

made a rect. frame for mine outa angle and extended the angle past the asdacasters bolted the saw to the frame then 4 x 20 mm bolts heads down, one at each corner and then 2 nuts one under and one above the angle, 2mins job to jack the bolts down, lock the nuts and bingo even more solid than on its own feet, lift the bolts and wheel it where you want , not to asda btw though!! Just had a thought you can get those little discs from the charity shops for 50p, now that makes them 12.5p per caster and you do your bit for charity!!! Makes ya feel good huh?

 

[RichardM]

To save gettin ya feet wet, The trolleys are only a pound at our asda-------------thats only 25p a caster! ha

I was talking about using one to move a ladder about and was told the Tesco ones are alarmed so you don't leave the car park with them!

 

[normspanners]

That could prove a pain having the saw to have to stay in the car park, hum---------- got it!!to keep it simple you could have a relay transmiter to send the signal back to the store and you can still have cheap casters

 

[blacksmithstris]

Well, I've made a bit of progress with the saw, albeit very slow as I spend 5 or 10 min on it every now and again when I get a chance to get to the workshop, it's taken me months but almost all of the fused metal dust has now been chipped away apart from a real stubborn bit in the corner, I even found whole bits of offcuts in it!! Have begun to clean the beast, can't believe how much dirt and grime has collected on it!

I need to put a switch on it as it just plugs in and goes, can anyone tell me where to get one - was going to put a nvr switch on it, seems they have these at axminster tools for about £15, or they also have a nvr switch that is it's own unit that you plug the machine into, so rather than fitting the switch, you just plug it into that unit, maybe that would be more straightforward? That is £18 http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-power-tool-nvr-switch-prod35573/ or is it better to have the switch actually on the machine?

no pics yet, still in the cleaning process so when I've done with that I'll take some!

Also, where to buy blades? Desperately needs a new blade!! Also if I'm just cutting mild steel what tpi is recommended. Also sometimes cut Ally for making marquee poles, what blade would be best for that? I assume a different blade might be needed?

Thanks in advance for your help!!

 

[Badger1bear]

if you do a search on fleabay for powered hacksaw blades you will find something on there to fit

 

[wyn]

I need to put a switch on it as it just plugs in and goes, can anyone tell me where to get one - was going to put a nvr switch on it, seems they have these at axminster tools for about £15, or they also have a nvr switch that is it's own unit that you plug the machine into, so rather than fitting the switch, you just plug it into that unit, maybe that would be more straightforward? That is £18 http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-power-tool-nvr-switch-prod35573/ or is it better to have the switch actually on the machine?

I'd be tempted to go with this type fixed to the machine.

You could then rig up a lever type thing that just pushes the stop switch once it's cut through.....pretty much like a clarke bandsaw sort of set up.

 

[mr_splatter]

Not that it matters really because as mentioned before you can pick any thread if you are making the new block for the vice but I have an old Q&S saw probably of a similar vintage and the vice looks almost identical to yours. The bolt was sheared off. After getting it out I had to clean the threads up and ger a new bolt. It was 1/2" BSW so good chance that is what you have but I guess you could just as easily go M12.

 

[blacksmithstris]

ah, wyn, great thinking!! We have one of those on the clarke bandsaw at my old work, it would be a good thing if you didn't have to babysit the saw anyway as the blade always pops off in the middle of a cut!!

badger, I was more looking for what brand of blades would be best? and is 14tpi the best for mild steel? same tpi for ally?

 

[blacksmithstris]

Thanks mr. splatter! I still have not fixed the vice, it's a big chunk to weld on and I don't think my MIG welder will be "man enough" for it as I am currently running it off 13amp plug!! I have an arc welder that might do it, I'm not sure, my arc welder is a lorch h150, haven't measured the vice block but it's got to be 30 or 40mm thick... don't think if I've ever welded anything so thick before or if my equipment is up to it.

 

[MrFluffy]

every little helps bad idea putting wheels on the saw unless there retractable they need to be on solid level ground otherwise there all over the show as there not that well balanced. i have wooden wedges under mine

I agree the wheel's are a bad idea, but I've recently put my donkey saw on little 1" thick heavy foam pads under the feet. It runs almost silent now without any noticeable amount of wobbulation during use. Before you could hear/feel all the thunks and clunks as the blade changed direction with 70 years of wear on all the pivots. Now just this smooth cutting noise.

 

[brightspark]

I'd be tempted to go with this type fixed to the machine.

You could then rig up a lever type thing that just pushes the stop switch once it's cut through.....pretty much like a clarke bandsaw sort of set up.

all i did with mine was fit a waterproof microswitch in a box and operated of the drop arm and a contact starter

 

[blacksmithstris]

yours is so nice and shiny brightspark, I'm wondering what colour to paint mine, I might go for lilac to match some of my tools and one of my anvils! hmmm, microswitch as well, what kind of microswitch, never done that before, difficult?
the foam pads sound like a good idea, fluffy, but as i have such a small workshop, I keep the saw parallel to the wall then if i need to cut something pull it out so it's at a right angle to it. Need a bigger workshop!! Motor itself is clattery enough as it is!!

 

[Cobs]

I was more looking for what brand of blades would be best?

Example of one I use, may help the search:

Sandvik Sandflex 350mm HSS bi-metal 14tpi
The 350mm length is hole centre to hole centre.

 

[brightspark]

Example of one I use, may help the search:

Sandvik Sandflex 350mm HSS bi-metal 14tpi
The 350mm length is hole centre to hole centre.

i generaly pick the blades up for no more than £3.50 at autujumbles. most are starret or eclipse

 

[graffian]

all i did with mine was fit a waterproof microswitch in a box and operated of the drop arm and a contact starter

Mine has an off switch, there is a tag bolted to the exposed end of
the crank and a bolt in the tag pushes the switch down. Not taken a lot of notice of it it always works.
I bought a box of all hard kennedy blades, they seem fine.

 

[candor]

Just wondering, have a saw with 350mm blade also, the lever on the left unlocks the blade to drop down, what do the ones on the right do?

Also where do I shim as it's not cutting exactly square.

 

[brewdexta]

Also where do I shim as it's not cutting exactly square.

Hi Candor

Check this out http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=456170&postcount=113

Cheers
Andy

 

[candor]

Hi Candor

Check this out http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=456170&postcount=113

Cheers
Andy

Andy,

Thanks a million for that, I'll have a fiddle with it once I get a spare day.

Cheers,
Josh.