Final bit today I promise. Back to proper brazing wire and now using 85 amps as @premmington advised me that I was brazing too cold.
Rod cleaned with Acetone, not as dirty as some wires I have.
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Proper gap. Note the 1.6mm spacer wire. This is prior to wire brushing and the braze is noticably cleaner than before. The extra heat seems to be having a postive effect. The braze is much flatter too.
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Sides welded towards the middle. Again cleaner looking.
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The reverse shows good flow to the back on the first braze but the two sides aren't half as good. I would put that down to operator technique. I got all three runs out of one rod and on the final side I was rushing to finish before I ran out of rod. Otherwise I might have fed a bit more rod into it. Also I felt the need to push on faster on the sides as there is less material to soak up the heat. I should have taken more time.
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Survives the hammer test all the same. Yay!
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To conclude: I wont be brazing any suspension components like this. It is a handy technique to have I suppose. Good for stuff in a domestic environment that doesn't experience any great forces. It is very decorative too. If Aunty Mabel comes along asking if I "could just weld this broken heirloom" I will be brazing if for sure. It is very handy for one offs where you dont get a second chance or a practice run. The original material should be untouched underneath the braze. I won't be blowing through anything. I will definately consider this first with some exhaust builds of mine in future, Should save me cooking any stainless material or making a mess of thin walled tube
is brazing gluing strong as the normal welding? i'm (slowly) building a motorcycle frame (mild steel tubing) is brazing suitable for the task? i guess the advantage against welding is that less heat would be involved..but will be it strong enough? what sort of money do cost the brazing rods for steel?