Question for the wood botherers...

[ajlelectronics]

This is a rather nice table top which appears never to have been oiled, lacquered or whatever. It has some water damage where a damp cutting mat was left on top of it, but I am not sure how best to refinish it. Do I just buy some 20W50 or what?
Will I have to flat it first and what should I coat it with please? The black lines are routed and I assume then painted black.

 

[addjunkie]

Is it teak?

 

[ajlelectronics]

Is it teak?

How would I know? It's brown with black lines! I understand that it cost £400 though.

 

[gaz1]

from the web reference its teak

Google Image Result for https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S913433cefb40431aa2a6f0935d7c6051A.jpg_640x640q90.jpg

 

[northwest]

Tung Oil.

 

[julianf]

Osmo.

So much easier to use than slow drying traditional oils.

I use poly x for everything. I use the gloss one - one coat with excess, flat with 800, then another coat rubbed on so there is no excess at all. It gives a satin ish finish (ie not gloss at all).

320 or even coarser will be fine for the initial sanding. I do oak parts and do them with 120 on a da. The initial osmo coat covers any tails fine, but I'm saying 320 to you in case the wood behaves differently.

 

[northwest]

Osmo

I will give you that. But Rubio Monocoat is better.

 

[julianf]

Shipping these tomorrow -

 

[julianf]

I will give you that. But Rubio Monocoat is better.

I don't know if it is, or if it's just the American YouTubers promoting the Rubio all the time (I doubt osmo exists in the states?)

(I've never used the Rubio stuff)

 

[northwest]

I have had some good results with it.

 

[frank horton]

flattening down the surface will not guarantee the stain to disapear....
it may look gone untill the finish is appled...
I have a £1000 teak table that renters have stained before this product was used.... see below...
can't get those finishes here but I use a product similar to Sikkens...
neither oil or varnish, totally recoatable without major prep.....
it does soak in v well...and ext quality...
It get used for everything ...beams, T+G, chairs as well....
and I have a lot of outside furniture / wood subject to 40º+ and torrential rain in the winter...

 

[TEO]

For fire & forget, ie. stuff you're selling then Osmo or one of the other hard wax oils are hard to beat however for stuff that I keep or have to maintain then I prefer an oil, tung oil used to be the one but I use more Sikkens now. I'm not sure why I moved back to oils, probably just what I had to hand. I wouldn't use the Osmo type hard wax oils on stuff exposed to weathering, is your table going into the cockpit as well as the cabinet?

 

[ajlelectronics]

Osmo.

So much easier to use than slow drying traditional oils.

I use poly x for everything. I use the gloss one - one coat with excess, flat with 800, then another coat rubbed on so there is no excess at all. It gives a satin ish finish (ie not gloss at all).

320 or even coarser will be fine for the initial sanding. I do oak parts and do them with 120 on a da. The initial osmo coat covers any tails fine, but I'm saying 320 to you in case the wood behaves differently.

Thank you, I will look into that. I take it that what I believe may be black paint will be OK with it?

 

[ajlelectronics]

is your table going into the cockpit as well as the cabinet?

No, it is the Dinette table, but although I haven't investigated how yet, apparently it also lowers and fills a hole between the benches to act as a sleeping area.

 

[julianf]

Thank you, I will look into that. I take it that what I believe may be black paint will be OK with it?

Probably. As always, test area.

Because of the ridges, you may have to limit the thicker coats and just wipe everything on, as you'll not be able to get dried excess out of the recesses.

Will still perform the same, more or less.

Watch out for the coating (whatever you choose) showing up the staining more.

You can use some acid beginning with O (can't remember the rest - never used it) to pull the stains out of oak, apparently. Maybe look into that?

Also -

Don't get a big tin of osmo. It will last forever until you pull the lid, then it skins over fairly quickly, so don't assume you can keep it long term.

I buy the 750ml ones, and I'd say you would very easily get away with less than half of that.

I think 375 ml may be the smallest tin, but you could consider even smaller if they do that.

 

[northwest]

You can use some acid beginning with O (can't remember the rest - never used it) to pull the stains out of oak, apparently. Maybe look into that?

Also -

Oxalic. With Oak I always fumed it (ammonia) if I wanted a "stain" though that doesn't look like oak to me.

 

[Misterg]

You can use some acid beginning with O (can't remember the rest - never used it) to pull the stains out of oak, apparently. Maybe look into that?

Oxalic acid.

I was going to suggest the same, *provided* the surface hasn't got any finish on it. It will even out the colour and bring back the amber to any areas that have weathered silver.

It looks to me like there may be the remains of some sort of thin lacquer on it, though. In which case, you may have no option but to give it a light sanding. Be careful - it might just be a veneer.

Some things like this are made like false decks and the dark bits are rubber/silicone/whatever caulking that might not sand well.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I think 375 ml may be the smallest tin, but you could consider even smaller if they do that.

There is a 125mL tester pot, but that may be too small?

Having looked at the options, I am now confronted with MORE choices, where I was hoping for two: take it or leave it! This one?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Osmo-Polyx-Oil-Clear-Satin-3032B/dp/B009VDRISY

 

[ajlelectronics]

Some things like this are made like false decks and the dark bits are rubber/silicone/whatever caulking that might not sand well.

Interesting, I shall have to have a prod on Friday.

 

[Robotstar5]

Another vote for PolyX, I use it on my engine trolleys and find it hard wearing, water and oil just wipe off.