Qualters & Smith Power hacksaw feed

[scottmk1]

Yours sounds like a different version from mine then Pete, I think mines an LDS 6, no coolant system what so ever.

 

[MattF]

No same main tank but there are several partitions and settling tanks then a gauze filter before the pump

Any chance of a photo or two of the system if you ever get five minutes spare? You've made me curious about the setup on yours now.

 

[Woody.v8]

Any chance of a photo or two of the system if you ever get five minutes spare? You've made me curious about the setup on yours now.

No problem, It will be a week or so before i get to the saw, I found out about the setup when trying to use the saw years ago and the coolant was very low, I could hear the pump slurping for oil and the saw wouldn't go down, With it still running I added coolant the slurping stopped and the hydraulics started to work.
I was shocked at how it worked but it works

 

[MattF]

Cheers. Obviously must be a fairly reliable system if it's been running fine all that time.

 

[Mazdaholic]

I've just gotten round to fixing up the Q&S power hacksaw I've had lying around in my workshop for some time since I purchased it as a scrap item from my former employment.
After fabricating a new motor bedplate it's now resplendent with a single phase motor, new pulley & v belt.
However, after lowering the blade onto the worKipiece & starting the saw, the hydraulic feed cylinder is jacking the saws frame upwards away from cutting & no matter where I position the the feed operating handle it refuses to lower whilst the motor is running.
Anybody had experience of this make of saw or better still the operating instructions.
Thanks in anticipation
RonA

Hi Ron - my mate Phil & I are renovating a Q&S power hacksaw and have a couple of questions we hope you can help us with. We have the same problem with the operation of the hydraulic lift mechanism- first question is how do you dissmantle the cylinder, can't see how to gebt the reservoir cap off. Secondly, it looks like the main ros has broken or been shortened at some time - do you have any idea what its dimensions should be?? There also appears to be a v notched in the top - is this correct??? Hope you can help, thanks, Jim

 

[scottmk1]

The cap is held onto the cylinder by 2 allen head bolts, if you have removed the cylinder from the saw undo the bolts then you should be able to pull the cap & internals out as a oner.

 

[Mazdaholic]

The cap is held onto the cylinder by 2 allen head bolts, if you have removed the cylinder from the saw undo the bolts then you should be able to pull the cap & internals out as a oner.

Thanks Scott - I'll pass on to Phil. Any ideas on the dimension of the main rod???

 

[scottmk1]

5/8" rings a bell but you best measure it as it was a while ago I had my one in bits

 

[scottmk1]

Just measured the main rod on mine (the one that does the lifting & lowering) it's bang on 3/4".

 

[vwmark]

To bring a thread back to life..

Stripped my Qualter and Smith 6" saw today - only had it 3 years .

I would have been lost without out the sketch. Mine is missing the spring that pushes the bevel washer.

Just need to find a supplier of the seals.

Anyone know how much oil to put in?

 

[Beeezer]

Can’t help you with any info on these saws, but I have the identical saw and use it regularly.

It had been left outside covered up for years when I got given it, it does what I need it to do!

It’s a one day “I will restore it thing”.

 

[Allthegearnoidea]

Interesting I have the same saw with the same lifting problem. I couldn’t figure out why it was lifting off so disconnected the pump lever from the cam. I have a counter weight hung of the back now. Be interesting to know what oil your running in the hydraulic lifter. I am using jack oil thought perhaps something thinner may be required as to escape quicker. I use the saw regularly but was planning on doing a full rebuild at some point.

Thanks

 

[RonA]

Sorry, I hadn’t realised there were more entries on this thread but to answer some of the questions posed.
The replacent gaskets I fabricated myself out of synthetic sheet rubber, very straightforward.
The original damper oil is no longer available but modern (& allegedly widely available) general purpose lubricant LP 150 is a direct replacement.
Topping up was done with the saw frame fully down & I just filled it up to the top of the fill hole.
RonA

 

[vwmark]

Sorry, I hadn’t realised there were more entries on this thread but to answer some of the questions posed.
The replacent gaskets I fabricated myself out of synthetic sheet rubber, very straightforward.
The original damper oil is no longer available but modern (& allegedly widely available) general purpose lubricant LP 150 is a direct replacement.
Topping up was done with the saw frame fully down & I just filled it up to the top of the fill hole.
RonA

Thanks. Will give it a go. Surprised how quite the saw is. Nice bit of kit.

 

[Rig Pig]

Has anyone got a manual for a qualters and smith 200? Lathes.co.uk have one but I refuse to pay £45 for a photocopy!

 

[Rabet]

Hi RonA,
I live in the jungle of borneo and I came accros a LDS 6 and bought it.
Now the big problem, it does not have any of the hydraulics at all. I have managed to obtain a schmatic section drawing with no measurments what so ever from accurate cut England but it has no other information what so ever. I am hoping I might be able to make one if I had more details.
So I found your post and the little drg you posted is a great help, but I have several other questions if you would be good enough to answer. You are my only hope.
Start with easy ones,
1. what is the dia of the plunger
2.Does the main lift piston have any seals
3, Is there a non return valve at the base of the plunger
4, On the oil port to the plunger is there another non return valve, vertical above base of plunger
5, About 3 inches down from the top facing rearwards there apears to be a honzontal hole or something, what is it

That will do for now.
Hoping you can help me.
Rabet

 

[hermetic]

If any of the earlier posters are still watching this thread, I would love to know how you get the top off the hydraulic cylinder!
Phil

 

[scottmk1]

If any of the earlier posters are still watching this thread, I would love to know how you get the top off the hydraulic cylinder!
Phil

The cap is held onto the cylinder by 2 allen head bolts, if you have removed the cylinder from the saw undo the bolts then you should be able to pull the cap & internals out as a oner.

 

[Rig Pig]

Hi RonA,
I live in the jungle of borneo and I came accros a LDS 6 and bought it.
Now the big problem, it does not have any of the hydraulics at all. I have managed to obtain a schmatic section drawing with no measurments what so ever from accurate cut England but it has no other information what so ever. I am hoping I might be able to make one if I had more details.
So I found your post and the little drg you posted is a great help, but I have several other questions if you would be good enough to answer. You are my only hope.
Start with easy ones,
1. what is the dia of the plunger
2.Does the main lift piston have any seals
3, Is there a non return valve at the base of the plunger
4, On the oil port to the plunger is there another non return valve, vertical above base of plunger
5, About 3 inches down from the top facing rearwards there apears to be a honzontal hole or something, what is it

That will do for now.
Hoping you can help me.
Rabet

If you search on the Forum you will find @Dieselkid 63 rebuilding his cylinder.

 

[Dieselman 63]

If you search on the Forum you will find @Dieselkid 63 rebuilding his cylinder.

And coating the floor in atf in the process!