Pulled out my engine today

[RaceDiagnostics]

The first job today was to flip the engine and fit the feet at the rear of the block.

Next I removed the restored pan from the transmission and replaced it with the one from the old trans. I will refit the new one once it is back in the engine to avoid the paint being scratched.

Transferring the engine from the stand to the crane. Lots of parts removed first, they will be refitted once the engine is back in the car.

My dolly could do with being a bit wider, so I welded the two supports together.

The block supported at the back with timber.

Next the rear cover, treated with hylomar and grease packed into the seal to stop its internal spring from falling out when fitting.

This part which is bolted to the intermediate cover seems to be there just to collect oil leaks from the rear of the engine.

Intermediate flange fitted.

Finally the flex plate fitted.

Ready for the transmission tomorrow.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

The first job was to sit the torque converter into the transmission, it took a while to get the tangs on the rotor to seat properly into the pump.

According to the manual this looks correct, ~4mm of the ring gear showing.

Getting ready to fit to the engine, I decided to weigh down the back of the engine as it was almost balanced.

Lifted with the engine crane, this must be very tricky to do from under the engine with the car on stands.

It bolted together without a hitch.

Transmission mount fitted.

Next this lot.

Trans oil cooler lines.
Trans dip stick and tube.
Trans shift point rod.
Trans vacuum modulator pipe.

Oil cooler lines fitted first.

Then the rest.

The shift point rod initially didn't go where it was supposed to, so had to do a bit of bending to get it to fit. I think it was damaged before I bought this engine ten years ago and has always given me problems. It now connects up here to the throttle linkage.

This single 12.9 bolt came through, so can swap out the cap head I fitted when refurbing the steering box. I couldn't find one self coloured hex bolt in this size round here so bought from china for £1 and free shipping. How does that work?

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

The first job today was to fit the flex plate bolts.

Then the starter motor....

.... and earth strap.

Then removed the idler arm bush, pretty tight.

It is not metalastic bush, more like a poly bush. The old one was still in good condition but it will not be this easy to change ever again.

I would like to replace these if I can get OEM ones preformed, painting cunifer isn't as good as original.

Finally a garage tidy up as the engine and engine bay prep work work is now complete, just waiting for warmer weather so I can get the engine bay painted, It could easily be a month before I can do that.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I've been getting garage withdrawal symptoms so went back in today. In the middle of last year I noticed that the driver door lock was completely frozen. The key could be inserted but there was no way for it to be turned, it felt like it had been glued in place. I assume this is due to years of accumulated dirt, non use during the restoration and the remote central locking I now have fitted. Today it was time for a closer look.

First I removed the door handle.

Then these parts from the inner end of the cylinder.

With the key in place to hold the cylinder parts captive, in theory the cylinder should just slide of of the handle, but in my case, I put the screw back in a bit and tapped with a light hammer to break it free.

Into "plus gas" for cleaning.

The barrel was also full of crud.

Cleaned out with a pick, pipe cleaners and brake cleaner.

The cylinder cleaned up and freed off pretty well.

Rinsed and dried off with brake cleaner.

Back together and working perfectly. Any suggestions on the best dry lubricant to use?

 

[a111r]

Have you replaced the vacuum locking with a generic electric locking kit?

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Yes, I ripped out all of the vacuum system for the locks and heating and replaced with electro-mechanical.

 

[Melvyn Best]

Graphite is good for locks, WD40 isn’t

 

[slim_boy_fat]

^^ Yep, powdered graphite.

 

[a111r]

Yes, I ripped out all of the vacuum system for the locks and heating and replaced with electro-mechanical.

I was thinking of doing the same on my (5 door) W123. Not a fan of the vacuum system, too many 38 year old perished rubber connectors to fault find.
What kit did you use?

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I was thinking of doing the same on my (5 door) W123. Not a fan of the vacuum system, too many 38 year old perished rubber connectors to fault find.
What kit did you use?

It was a cheap generic one from eBay. I have a two videos on it. I fitted it to the two doors and boot. It was an easy install when the car was stripped down.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I got the lock fitted back into the door today and although the fey moves freely, it was still difficult to unlock the door due to the latch being gummed up.

So latch taken out.

Cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Re-greased and fitted and now works perfectly. I will clean up the lock and latch on the passenger door once the car is mobile again.

One job always leads to another. The screw that holds the internal door handle in place stripped out when being replaced, it screws into a weak zinc casting.

Drilled it out.

Tapped.

Helicoil fitted and job done.

 

[zx9]

Re-greased and fitted and now works perfectly. I will clean up the lock and latch on the passenger door once the car is mobile again.

When I say that sort of thing it almost never happens.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

When I say that sort of thing it almost never happens.

Haha, it took me 9 months to get round to this after I noticed and I hate taking off the door cards as they are so fragile. So I'll probably be looking for excuses not do do the other side.....

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Is it working properly again after cooling down?

I missed that, yes, must have just been a thermal cut out.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Time to make up new brake lines, I had some cunifer left over which is easy to bend by hand.

Small ones are easy.

Longer ones are a bit of a pain, I make the first couple of bends then tape the new line to the old one. That helps with the bend directions.

I need more tube for the last line.

Next I tried a paint trial on the back of the new bulkhead heat pad, the left square is two coats of plastic primer, the middle is two coats of plastic primer then two coats of high temp silver, the right is just two coats of high temp silver. Tomorrow I will try a scratch and bend test.

Idler arm primed with acid etch.

New lock/seal nut fitted to the steering box, I do the final slack adjustment once it's back on the car.

The engine mounts sit on these two pads, in citric acid for de-rusting.....

..... then paint stripped off. I also welded up one of the subframe mount captive nuts as I was worried about it breaking free. I will have to re-plate it.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I am glad I tried a paint test on the bulkhead insulation pad. First I bent the paint sample then scratched it with my finger nail.

Just the "plastic primer" patch. FAIL!

"Plastic primer" then silver paint. FAIL

Just the paint with no primer. The paint could eventually be scraped off but no cracking or delamination.

I had some other primer so decided to give that a try, so made up two new test areas, I will test these tomorrow.

Next I primed the subframe pads.

Then pulled out the old throttle link grommet.

Fitted.

Next I made up some epoxy primer to paint the seams in the engine bay for some extra protection. Once dry I will also add tiger seal.

Last, I added a bit of green tinter to the left over epoxy, I can't add too much to get to the correct green without being worried about the integrity of the epoxy so the colour is a compromise. At least the back and front brake pipes will now match.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

The experiment with the alternative primer was better, the primer was more scratch resistant and the patch with both primer and paint stood up to bending and scratching better than all of yesterdays options.

Good news, but as expected the 1k silver paint is still susceptible to being easily marked, not good.

So today I ordered up some 2k satin silver and will try that in a few days.

Next, seam sealer.

Then removed the bumper and lower grill.

Conservatory starting to fill up. again.

Any thoughts on using lechler 29107 epoxy on the rubber bulkhead part?

Still too cold here for at least the next two weeks to paint the engine bay.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

More cunifer for the last brake pipe, a straightening tool would be good but I may never do this again.

This 2k silver arrived for the bulkhead insulation pad. I think 2k paint rather than 1k will be much better in the long run.

The replacement front subframe nut (one was a bit bent), having one of these come loose would be a nightmare.

This is the replacement idler arm bush from Mercedes, only marginally better quality than the Febi one (but 5x the price), you can see the old one was chrome plated, the new one is not but is smoother than the Febi one.

I have no idea what this coating is but will replace it with passivated zinc. The supplied bolt id a 10.9 strength but the nut is only 8, seems odd.

 

[RichardM]

by the colour may have been copper plated, but I'd be more concerned as to why the threads are not all utilised. Is it the correct nut?

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Just not screwed on all the way, the bolt is more than long enough. . I suppose it could be a thread locker but screwed on this far easily.