Pulled out my engine today

[8ob]

In the absence of a seal expander a cut down thin washing up liquid bottle placed/scrolled/funnelled over the nose of the crank makes a good tool for pushing casings with a lip seal on without turning them insideout or nipping them, carefully slide the plastic out after its fitted.

Bob

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I ended up using a thin bead of Loctite 5980, I don't want blobs falling off into the oil pan.

Turns out you need at least 6 hands to fit the timing cover, I'm glad a tried a few test fits before using the sealant, the main problem is that the oil pump chain gets in the way. Anyway, it's now fitted along with the crank hub and water pump.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

In the absence of a seal expander a cut down thin washing up liquid bottle placed/scrolled/funnelled over the nose of the crank makes a good tool for pushing casings with a lip seal on without turning them insideout or nipping them, carefully slide the plastic out after its fitted.

Bob

The greased up hub pushed on after the timing cover and slides nicely through the seal.

 

[Melvyn Best]

You might have found it easier to fit the oil pump and sump before fitting the front cover?

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

No, it wouldn't work, I'm following the reverse of my strip down which is fairly straight forward, the oil pump and its chain tensioner goes on next and bolts to the bottom of the front cover, then the sump.

This was it coming off.

Looking at these pics I will need to wait for my new cap bolts to arrive before getting to the oil pump, there are plenty other things to get on with.

 

[jordhandson]

Great read, Ive been following your post on this and I am amazed at your level of patience and the staying focused on something like this. I am ok with customers stuff but on my own things once it gets past a week 9 time out of 10 it has to go away till I feel like getting back on it.
Brilliant post

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I went backwards today, while looking at the oil pump mounting points noticed this debris in the oil channel that leads from the pump. Its glass beads left over from the vapour blasting.

So the timing cover had to come off for cleaning.

Despite only putting on a small amount of sealant towards the outer edge you can see that plenty made its way into the inside of the timing case, not good!

I cleaned off all the Loctite 5980 and instead brushed on a small amount of Permatex Aviation.

Back together again with a few more ancillaries attached.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Does anyone have a recommendation for good quality stainless steel hose clips. I bought so called stainless ones in the past that still had parts made of mild steel that rusted.

 

[qwakers]

genuine jubilee brand are the only ones worth having.

 

[mylesdw]

Places that sell to the dairy/food industry usually have a good selection of nice stainless steel stuff including hose clamps.

Did you buy all those nice gold fasteners or plate them yourself?

 

[jsf55]

Mikalor hose clamps

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Having spotted the glass bead in the timing case cover I thought I would do a double check on the inlet manifold that was also blasted, as well as the inlet runners (that are easy to clean out) there are two internal tubes that run the length of the manifold that are used for the cold start injector.

I gave it a power wash last week but thought a double check was in order.

There is a core plug at the end of this internal tube so I pulled it out with a slide hammer.

Glad I did as it was packed with glass bead.

I got it cleaned out but will give it another power wash tomorrow. These plastic number plate screws were the perfect size to plug the holes that connect the runners to the internal tube.

Looking down the length of the tube, now perfectly clean.

I then moved onto the old sump gasket, it seems to have morphed into igneous rock over the last 40 years, I think this will take most of tomorrow to remove.

I also dropped the CAMs off at the engine machine shop this afternoon for the end journals to be ground. They will hopefully be ready on Wednesday.

 

[Wallace]

Did you leave any threads open to the bead? The bead breaks up as you screw a bolt in and embeds itself in the alloy. If you are lucky it only tears the bolt threads up but can leave you with a sheared bolt gripped by glass that's a bastid to drill out. Ive had it bind taps cleaning threads out and taken the cutting edge off, notwithstanding that twitchy moment when the tap will only go a quarter turn either way.

Anything I bead blast with threads gets degreased and tapped out then a bolt fitted to seal it up. I still panic taking them out!

 

[8ob]

I wouldn't use glass blasting anywhere near an engine, its virtually impossible to get it all out especially the stuff embedded in ali casings. Mixed with oil the first stop is the oil pump and everything splash fed.

Bob

 

[roofman]

I wouldn't use glass blasting anywhere near an engine, its virtually impossible to get it all out especially the stuff embedded in ali casings. Mixed with oil the first stop is the oil pump and everything splash fed.

Bob

yep i learnt the hard way years ago after getting a Yamaha XS1100 engine cases powder coated satin black to match OEM look...blasting grit got past my bungs and destroyed the crank in 30 mins after a 6 month restro. never get any engine parts blasted since

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Now you tell me , but it looks so purty!

Anyway, I've run a thread chaser through all the threads and all was good.

 

[Cuthy246]

Mikalor hose clamps

Second for them. Only ones we will use on chemical delivery hoses at work

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I ran the lockdown gauntlet and picked up the pipework from the platers this morning. £120 cash, its not perfect, there are a couple of rusty spots but I will be able to fix these myself as they are close to the ends.

Ideally they should have been vapour blasted first but the cost including that was £278 so I opted for just a dip strip and plate passivate.

Then onto the sump for a couple of hours, the best technique I found was keeping the scraper at just the right sharpness. I didn't use any gasket remover as other who have tried on these said it made no difference.

Next onto a couple of the fuel hoses, these are the parts I stripped off the old hoses.

I heated the hose and got the first end pushed in most of the way but not all the way (bottom left), any suggestions on the best way to push these in, I may just nip along to a hydraulic shop tomorrow and get them to do it. The other ends are just sitting in place.

 

[RichardM]

oil both tube and fittings make it easier. Mark hose as attached. Having the fittings solidly held also helps.
See here, same type of thing:

https://www.earls.co.uk/earls/technical/Super Stock Hose Assembly.pdf

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I had another try with cold as opposed to hot hose, lubricated with brake cleaner and hammered in. The stiffer hose allowed the ends to be driven in.