Progress 2G Drill

[MattF]

I didn't bother rubbing down, there's just one coat of gloss and the undercoat dried with a nice dull finish.

I managed to get a bit of a sag on the belt cover, but I wasn't used to this paint, it seemed a lot thicker than stuff I've used before.

That's covered awfully well for a single coat of top. Looks like some nice brushwork there. Regarding the thickness when applying, the chap at the paint place I use suggests popping the tin in a container of hot water, (rather than using thinners), to thin enamel type paint out when applying. I was through there recently to get some 14 Line poly satin, (black blue, RAL 5004), for doing my general metalwork based equipment in, (provided it doesn't look a crap colour when I try it out, else leave a poor looking finish, that is ), hence why he was giving that advice. A Brunswick Green and some shade of dark maroon/burgundy are on the cards next if this stuff seems like decent paint, and is easy enough to apply by brush. Eventually decided to colour code machinery based on intended use, (woodwork, metalwork etc.), rather than necessarily sticking with the original colours. Not exactly the best approach for vintage equipment, granted, but easier and cheaper than having to buy different colours for each machine, and getting stuck with a load of unnecessary paint.

Always tend to be a bit reluctant to get round to the task of painting equipment though. It's all so easy to make it look shoddy rather than make it look good, and good brush painting is somewhat of a knack as much as owt else. Just going over some basic bits with a couple of layers of zinc phosphate primer at the moment, in prep for the top coat. Small, weird shaped items were just never intended to be easy to brush paint though.

 

[rtbcomp]

This is just Johnstones Trade Professional from the local decorating shop. I'll try that warming up trick, it might help it to dry more quickly too.

I suspect my next project(s) will end up the same colour until the tin runs out, hopefully not halfway through a job!

 

[the snooper]

are you going to paint the motor ? it looks out of place against all the shiny new paint

 

[rtbcomp]

I thought long and hard over that one and decided to err on the side of caution, certainly didn't want to blast it.

I might follow Matt's idea of making a shroud for it, just need to figure out how to keep it ventilated at the same time.

I've filled the gearbox with oil and no sign of any leaks, the new (A46) belt does the trick so just got to re-fit the quill and Robert's your father's brother!

When fitting the gear lever note

1) Make sure the detent ball will pass freely through the hole.

2) The pin is tapered and is drifted in from below.

 

[MattF]

just need to figure out how to keep it ventilated at the same time.

Is the motor and mounting plate notably wider than the top belt/pulley cover? If it were I, I'd be thinking something along the lines of a piece of steel plate, formed into a U or horseshoe shape along its length, which just butts upto the top cover and is secured there somehow. Leave the bottom end open. Should allow plenty of ventilation that way, and swarf/chips are unlikely to enter from below. A couple of little folds along each edge of the plate could hook around the bottom of the mounting plate, to give a bit more rigidity and to stop it flapping about any.

I suspect my next project(s) will end up the same colour until the tin runs out, hopefully not halfway through a job!

Aye, it's quite easy to understand why companies tend to paint all of their machinery the same colour, when you think about it.

 

[brightspark]

why bother covering the motor with anything ?? the original wasnt and its not a show piece is it .the motor on mines been there 60 years and still going strong and its not covered

 

[MattF]

The standard type motors usually have the ventilation slots on the ends, not sides, (if any at all). Besides, since when has smartening something up somewhat not been possibly a pointless exercise but a necessary requirement nonetheless?

 

[the artfull-codger]

what's the reasoning behind the reversing switch?? I've had my 10 speed meddings for the last 45 yrs & not needed reverse or am I missing something??
slan go fol

 

[MattF]

I'm guessing he likely just had one to hand and decided to fit it just incase it was ever needed.

 

[brightspark]

I'm guessing he likely just had one to hand and decided to fit it just incase it was ever needed.

what for left handed drills http://www.uktoolcentre.co.uk/Shop/...oduct+Search&gclid=CNue9reb1rACFUIOfAod0k3U1A

 

[MattF]

Never said I could envisage any reason why it might be needed.

 

[rtbcomp]

They come with a reversing switch as standard. The one that came with my machine was a bodge - held on with one screw! I've tidied that up.

I understand left hand drills are used when drilling out broken studs &c. It's also useful if you drill a hole in the wrong place, reverse the motor to undrill it.

 

[the snooper]

They come with a reversing switch as standard. The one that came with my machine was a bodge - held on with one screw! I've tidied that up.

I understand left hand drills are used when drilling out broken studs &c. It's also useful if you drill a hole in the wrong place, reverse the motor to undrill it.

in that case im going to reverse the feed motor on my mig it must be easier then grinding the weld back off if you happen to tack the wrong spot

 

[the artfull-codger]

They come with a reversing switch as standard. The one that came with my machine was a bodge - held on with one screw! I've tidied that up.

I understand left hand drills are used when drilling out broken studs &c. It's also useful if you drill a hole in the wrong place, reverse the motor to undrill it.

needed one of them drills a few times over the years!! like I tell the students at work, we don't have a putting on tools just taking off tools!!
slan go fol

 

[rtbcomp]

YAY - It's Just Drilled a Hole!

Got the quill all cleaned up, greased and re-fitted, photos to follow.

Not a hint of play anywhere, although it does start with a crack if you don't turn the chuck on before starting it! As I use all three holes to tighten the chuck I turn the spindle round anyway.

There's a bit of eccentricity at the chuck, but it came off a Clarke drill and that ran out of true as well so I'm not losing any sleep over that.

I have one reservation, the quill is a very tight fit in the head casting, it won't fall under its own weight and won't rise under spring tension. I don't know what it was like before I took it to bits though.

 

[rtbcomp]

Before fitting the quill I cleaned out the return spring. It was full of grease and bits of broken spring.



After degreasing and bead blasting (the spring wasn't blasted)

 

[rtbcomp]

The next job was to get the spring into its housing.

I dropped the quill out of engagement with the pinion, placed the spring housing in its proper place and secured it with the grubscrew, making sure the end of the screw engaged with one of the holes in the housing.

Next the inner end of the spring was located in the slot in the end of the pinion shaft and whilst pressing the spring against the housing with a gloved hand turned the star wheel, as if lowering the quill, to wind the spring in.

Once all the spring is inside the housing keep turning until the outer end engages with its locating slot.





The cover can now be fastened in place. The original screws were loose so I drilled the holes out to 3mm and used some tapping screws from an old computer.



The spring unit can now be removed from the drill prior to fitting the quill.

 

[MattF]

Is it returning to position properly now you've cleaned the spring mech out? Where were the bits of spring from? That one in the photo looks in good nick?

 

[rtbcomp]

No, it wouldn't even fall under its own weight so the spring has no chance. I guess the bits of spring were from the spring previously breaking, the way the end is bent over doesn't look original.

I've had a DTI on the chuck to find the run-out. The outside of spindle is 0.5 thou. I removed the chuck from the arbor and the run-out on the JT3 taper was 2 thou. I refitted the chuck and put some ground bar in it, the run-out just below the jaws was 10 thou.

 

[rtbcomp]

Just fitted a brand new 5-20mm chuck from RDG. 1 thou run-out at the arbor and 3.5 thou at the jaws. Used a drill bit instead of the ground bar I used the previous time as it was too small to fit in the chuck.

The drilled hole was noticeably neater.