Post 2012 VW TDi cambelt change

[500e]

Seen 2 of those in the last month in a mates garage also my Yettie had the problem, never showed hot even driven by me it was a bit more open than your L hand pic.
Found it when we did cam belt etc.
He said a customer had one stick Completely Shut and did not see warning signs

 

[Ubique]

Theres a VWG TPI about them - now on it's 19th iteration.... The problem is the EU wanting manufacturers to reduce emissions and therefore fuel consumption and therefore engine load, wherever they can so stay compliant. These pumps are the result of that. There are many other acts of engineering stupidity in response to EU, and increasingly UN mandates, across many marques all in the name of emissions reduction - apparently now the exhaust gas particles are so small that they are capable of passing through the blood membrane in the lungs. Well, I suppose that's progress eh? Personally, I'd rather have them big enough to cough up at some point....

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I've change four of these belts in the last three days - one was due to the pump sleeve not releasing, it was fine until the AC was on then it'd overheat due to the heat in the condenser preventing enough cooler air getting to the radiator.
Contrary to opinion, the HP pump does have to be synchronised - nothing to do with fuel delivery, everything to do with phased load on the timing belt.

View attachment 460056

Do you use an OBD2 tool to open the pump shield when refilling with coolant? Will dig out my vcds if necessary but not sure if it really is.

 

[Ubique]

No, just vac fill - the pump defaults to open so if you can't vac fill, just leave it disconnected until you've confirmed the system is air-free.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Just did that, then drove up and down a couple of steep hills and all looks good.

That job is a pita,doing it for the first time, I guess I'd get better with practice.

Tricky parts that held me up were getting the top cover off, best part of an hour struggling with it, there was a bit of broken plastic sticking it in place and putting the lower part of the engine mount back on. That took me about 45 mins, just wouldn't fit back in the space available, took lots of engine manipulation and prying.

In for dinner then back out for an oil change.

 

[Ubique]

A bit late now - jacking the engine as high as you can get it helps with the engine mount...

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

All good experience as there was a lot of oil around the crank and sump. I think I'll need to change the crank seal sometimes soon.

The car is 9 years old and 100k miles, oil leaks round the end of the crank seems pretty common.