Post 2012 VW TDi cambelt change

[RaceDiagnostics]

Anyone here have experience of this job, I think the original schedule was 140k miles but I'm now seeing 5 years or 140k miles, whichever is the sooner. It looks to be a pita of a job with special once in a lifetime pin holding tools needed. I'm now at 8 years and 86k miles, so may be on borrowed time.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

@premmington ?

 

[anto44]

I've done lots of them, not a bad job to do at all. The locking tools can be bought online fairly cheaply

 

[armalites]

Once these kind of vehicles get to a certain age the specialist tools get so cheap you'd have to be mad not to buy them. I fully understand the "I'll never need them again" attitude but they probably cost less than £20. Why bother messing about with drill bits and making stuff when they are that cheap?

 

[Chippie]

The timing kit for the post PD engine (ea189 series) comprises 2 pins for the injection pump and inlet camshaft and a locating tool for the crankshaft.A,though the Haynes manual states locking the inj. pump, there is no need as they are not timed…being common rail.
A fairly straightforward job, I bought a belt kit with water pump from my local factors…Taking a very leisurely pace, I did it in 2 days ( very very leisurely!) but can be done in a day…

Just make sure you check and double check the timing, turning the engine by hand before reaching for the ignition keys!

 

[premmington]

@premmington ?

2.0ltr OK job - engine mount a bit of pig to get out - always change Aux belt as well

I got 2012 2.0 DGS VW passat highline estate from for my own car.

We do these at my workshop for £475 - INA belt kit - INA water pump - Aux belt and G12 + anitfreeze including labour.

Always check alternator overrun pulley is OK and clutch is working when you got it apart - change if needed.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Mine is the 1.6 blue motion engine, but I think it will be very similar to the 2l videos I've been watching on YouTube. Now ordered an SKF belt and pump kit from Autodoc along with two new rear shocks which I noticed were weeping a bit when I did the brakes last week.

So far I've done nothing but oil and pad changes on this golf but is coming to an age where it's starting to need things done.

Looks like I'll buy the pin kit as well as a big inverted spline socket for the crank shaft.

 

[anto44]

a big inverted spline socket for the crank shaft

You'll need a m10 spline bit to remove the 4 m8 bolts holding the auxiliary pulley on. The crank can be turned with a standard 12 point spanner, the centre bolt doesn't need to be removed to replace the belt

 

[Ruffian]

Could be the 1.2/1.6 or 2.0 tdi engine. All of which use the same cambelt kit.

Some blue motions do use a electric controlled variable belt driven water pump. These can have a bit of cost added. (Probably not yours though as usually mk7 golf onwards)

12point 19mm socket for cranking the engine over. After doing the belt.

As premmington said, sometimes the mounts can be a real pain.

Sometimes the cambelt is awkward to keep on the crank pulley when timing the top of the engine.
(I use clothes pegs wedged in to hold it in place)

 

[Chippie]

Could be the 1.2/1.6 or 2.0 tdi engine. All of which use the same cambelt kit.

Some blue motions do use a electric controlled variable belt driven water pump. These can have a bit of cost added. (Probably not yours though as usually mk7 golf onwards)

The later ea288 engine uses an ‘electric‘ water pump

The later ea288 engine uses an ‘electric‘ water pump

 

[premmington]

Could be the 1.2/1.6 or 2.0 tdi engine. All of which use the same cambelt kit.

Some blue motions do use a electric controlled variable belt driven water pump. These can have a bit of cost added. (Probably not yours though as usually mk7 golf onwards)

12point 19mm socket for cranking the engine over. After doing the belt.

As premmington said, sometimes the mounts can be a real pain.

Sometimes the cambelt is awkward to keep on the crank pulley when timing the top of the engine.
(I use clothes pegs wedged in to hold it in place)

Your quote "Some blue motions do use a electric controlled variable belt driven water pump"

Later 2.0 & 1.6's you need to use a scan tool to bleed these pumps up with - if not you can boil the coolant in the EGR cooler.

VCDS has a service function - to run the electric water pump open - when starting the engine from the first time (normal position with engine cold is shut to aid - engine warming up quicker). With pump set to "open" with a scan tool - you will not get air lock. Or you can vac fill the system.

 

[anto44]

Or you can vac fill the system

When I was working for audi we used the vac fill on everything, any cars I do now get vac filled and never had an issue.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Some blue motions do use a electric controlled variable belt driven water pump. These can have a bit of cost added. (Probably not yours though as usually mk7 golf onwards)

Mine is a Mk7 and does need the electric control pump. Will need to change my order with Autodoc as they initially recommended the wrong one.

 

[anto44]

There are spurious pumps available which don't have the electric shroud fitted, I don't recommend you fit one of these as they make the engine slower to heat up and that's not something you want on a dpf fitted car. Here's a post from another thread showing one of these pumps

Thought I'd post this up here in case anyone was interested. It's an electrically controlled waterpump off a tdi vw. It's driven by the timing belt and when power is applied to the solenoid it opperates a shroud to block off the impeller to make the engine warm up quicker.
View attachment 145904
This is the shroud in the open position, not covering the impeller.
View attachment 145905
And this is the closed position blocking the impeller. As you can see it's sticking in the closed position. The solenoid moves it out and a spring returns it. This was causing the engine to overheat.
View attachment 145906

 

[premmington]

When I was working for audi we used the vac fill on everything, any cars I do now get vac filled and never had an issue.

I got a vac filler - but don't often use it. Unless the car is French...!

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Spoke to Autodoc and they have now swapped in the correct kit with the electric controlled pump.

Turns out they had three similar kits from SKF. One with the electrical actuator, one where you swap in the old actuator and one without the actuator mechanism which is said the throw a MIL code which seems pointless.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Finally going to get on to this tomorrow, slightly apprehensive due to age of car and general rustiness. Will anything shear off, snap or strip on this 9 year old golf.

 

[Melvyn Best]

Unlikely to break anything as long as you don’t overtighten anything .

 

[500e]

Hate the lecky pump they can fail in closed or 1/2 closed position.
Glad I am out of motor trade so much junk loaded onto cars

 

[Ubique]

I've change four of these belts in the last three days - one was due to the pump sleeve not releasing, it was fine until the AC was on then it'd overheat due to the heat in the condenser preventing enough cooler air getting to the radiator.
Contrary to opinion, the HP pump does have to be synchronised - nothing to do with fuel delivery, everything to do with phased load on the timing belt.