PLA warping on build plate

[BrokenBiker]

just run a print on a radio clip for a mate, first time using sunlu standard PLA and the print has warped at the build plate halfway through. didnt get any photos but the part is a 40x70 rectangle, 3mm thick, with 2 upstands and then a bridged section for the radio belt clip to slot into.

i printed the exact same file in PETG last weekend and it was fine.

what should i be looking at?

bed was set at 55 degrees and print temp was 210 at the nozzle, boht of which are comfortably inside the range given by sunlu.

is it just a case that 3mm was too thin for the footprint of 40x70? i was using tree supports internally to support the bridged section, they all broke away just fine but the print is a failure due to the warping as that face really needs to be flat for adhesive pads to be fitted later.

ive just redrawn it and bumped everything up to 5mm thick, may try printing on its side with supports only on the build plate this time. if it fails in PLA again i will do it on the original drawing with PETG as i know that works

 

[MattF]

Put a brim on it when you print it.

 

[Kram]

55c is too low, every print on my p2s failed with that as the default.

60-65 and you will have no more problems. Theres no notiable disadvantage that I can find.

 

[BrokenBiker]

55c is too low, every print on my p2s failed with that as the default.

60-65 and you will have no more problems. Theres no notiable disadvantage that I can find.

cheers for that, will try it on the next print.

Put a brim on it when you print it.

what does that do? ive seen the setting but not tried it yet

 

[Dev]

Puts a thin skirt round the base to help keep small/thin parts from lifting off the bed

 

[Welderpaul]

what does that do? ive seen the setting but not tried it yet

Think of the brim on a top hat, or tacking something to the bench to stop it pulling when you weld it

 

[Kram]

I also use brims on a lot of parts. Bambu gives the default of an 0.1mm gap but I cant see how it will help if its not connected, so if I use it, change gap to 0.
However bed temperature is the important one.

 

[BrokenBiker]

right...so ive bumbed bed temp up to 65 and ive put a 5mm brim around the whole part. ive also lowered the support density as it really didnt need to be as dense at it was and maybe that will reduce some pulling as well? ill find out in about 40 mins or so, just waiting for the larger print to finish then will send this over and see how it does this time.

i also noticed the 0.1mm gap on the brim setting and thought the same, its not working if it isnt connected.

in other news, 11 spools of elegoo have just been dumped outside my door...

think i might need to make some filament profiles for the various brands i have now as im running into issues with generic settings it seems.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Now that's more like it, thanks chaps

 

[BrokenBiker]

running a test on some Geeetech Bone white PLA now, have got supports as there are a few floating pieces, but have also run the brim with the standard 0.1mm gap, see what it does, it wasnt difficult to remove the brim off that piece, just bent it over and used a small diamond file to break through the corner. suppose a blade would have been just as quick.

only have 1 job for this bone white, and most of it is going to be aged with an airbrush anyway so if its not the best it isnt the end of the world but that bed temp increase definitely made a different, had to bend the plate to get it to pop off rather than just pick it up at the end if the print and it already be mostly loose