pic's of cars are you working on or have you worked on?

[bucko]

Just thought this would give evry one a chance to post a few pics without haveing to write any detail

i had a 1966 land rover with a 2.7 N/A nissan engine untill i was on my wey college now she's in that big scrappy in the sky. it would be intresting to kno what hapend to GFR237D let me know if you know where she is.

then there was a buggy with a ZX6R engine in but i had to sell that before i moved to the USA

and now im working on my grand cherokee with a 4.0 inline 6

 

[Wozzaaah]

According to this, the landy is still on the road

 

[peterd51]

Hi,

that's a neat trick, thanks!

The 'page' had timed out so I copied the details...


The vehicle details for GFR 237D are:

Date of Liability 01 09 2009
Date of First Registration 06 07 1966
Year of Manufacture Not Available
Cylinder Capacity (cc) Not Available
CO2 Emissions Not Available
Fuel Type Heavy Oil
Export Marker Not Applicable
Vehicle Status Licence Not Due
Vehicle Colour GREEN
Vehicle Type Approval null
The information contained on this page is correct at the time of enquiry.

Regards
Peter

 

[shenion]

Old photo captured with digital camera, so not the best.

1951 Willys CJ3A
Had PTO, 3-speed,4WD
Upgraded from L-head to '56 F head 4-Cyl after block cracked.
Complete rewiring (took a hour )
Added turn signals and roll bar.

Was my first vehicle. Rebuilt engine (twice) and tranny. New Bestop top. Wish I had a welder back then as it needed body work. Previous owner had riveted plates to cover holes.

Open the hood; 1 wire to coil, 1 vacuum line to windshield wiper; foot engaged starter. Real simple. 4 shift levers (one was PTO)

I still miss it. Anytime I smell burnt gear oil I suddenly rember the Jeep

 

[Shug]

Pic was taken before I welded on new sill and wheel arches. Also stripped and etch primed engine bay. Engine stripped and half rebuilt so far.
Just a bit of rear valence to weld on then I can prime, fill and spray.

 

[zardoz]

Here is my little beauty "summer project" thats gonna be a "winter freeze my **** off project" We see the P6 in all its glory, before i started to take off the bolt on wings (why are todays cars not bult like this)

and here we are after i started to attack the dreaded tin worm. I have already bought new D posts and inner wings for it. Now the small matter of welding them on. Oh yes and drilling out the thousands of spot welds, and not drilling through the other metal behind!

Good job i bought those new D posts eh ​

The red welding glove stuffed in the hole, was to stop grinder sparks from entering the pinholes behind and igniting the hessian/jute behind the rear seats. Better safe than the car a burnt out wreck. which reminds me i may well get "layed up" insurance for the car. I read a terrible story in Practical classics about a guy who had his garage burn down with his pride and joy in it. Although it was not on the road, indeed a long way off being anywhere near. He still luckily got it insured with what he called "driveway insurance"

 

[Wozzaaah]

Check out that rear suspension and brake setup guys and gals, they don't make 'em like that anymore (in fact, I don't think many did back then ).

 

[Damaged]

 

[zardoz]

Check out that rear suspension and brake setup guys and gals, they don't make 'em like that anymore (in fact, I don't think many did back then ).

Yep thats a genuine "De dion tube" independant suspension, along with inboard rear disc brakes. A real rareity on all but the top of the range motors back in the 1960s

the front suspension is a little different as well. the shocks are posistioned verticaly as usual, but the springs are placed horizontaly, ie: pointing from headlights back to the steering wheel. This was done to lower the height of the front end.

 

[TurboShed]

Looks shiny enough, but the seasoned eye will spot things like the way the front bumper sits, among other things, welding needed soon...

Currently outputting around 350bhp, with scope for more on the same turbo with different injectors and chip/map, but I'm keeping it "sensible" for the moment as it's on it's standard gearbox still.

Never underestimate the fun of 34/66 torque split front/rear Ferguson viscous 4x4. You can get it sideways relatively safely without being any good at driving A heavy load in the boot helps too!

 

[bucko]

dont worry about little things like the front bummer nobody likes trailer queens eneyway lol it looks good the way it is

 

[bucko]

According to this, the landy is still on the road

wow im amsed shes still on the road as she looked like the pic below when i finished with her wonder if someone has put her plates on a newer landy. not that enyone dose this as its highley illegal

still kick my self every day for dooing this to her as iv had it snce i was 14 and did nerarly all the work on it my self so i had become rather attached to it

 

[bucko]

According to this, the landy is still on the road

and thankyou wozzaaah & peterd51 for looking

 

[Unclefista]

My Locost, it's been on the road 4 years, I've had 3 accidents in that time[1], my welding wire never gets the chance to go rusty

[1] One was my fault, clipped a wall. The other two, I've been hit by uninsured drivers.... Grrrrr.....

 

[andypocock]

Both of these need attention from time to time

 

[bucko]

i dont kno what it is about them lil rascal picups but eva since i went to an LRO show where there was one with a rover v8 in the back pulling wheelies and since then i have wonted to build one

keep the pic's comeing guys and girls

 

[Paul.]

1959 Frogeye, pro rebuild (by me) see the rest here

 

[bucko]

1959 Frogeye, pro rebuild (by me) see the rest here

i like to meny diffrant cars
theres sothing about the old english cars i think its there funnky looks

like how that frogeye looks like its smileing at you it just makes you wont to jump in and go for a drive down some country lanes

should a 19 year old be thinking this or should i be into 1.1 saxos like the rest of them

 

[TurboShed]

dont worry about little things like the front bummer nobody likes trailer queens eneyway lol it looks good the way it is

Looks good but I know of way too many rusty bits on it, hence why I joined this forum, hence why I bought a welder.

What DID you do to that poor Landy anyway bucko?

 

[peterd51]

Hi,

I played around with my car earlier in the year, project report on here somewhere...

so now I have time to get on with something else.

While it's not a car, it is 'transport'...



The rebuild stalled late last year when I found that the engine I had was carp. I wouldn't want to trust it on a beach or over water.



I'd prefer a 4-stroke engine but after wasting about six months early in the year I realised I couln't find the right one at a reasonable price so I had to opt for a 2-stroke. I managed to get a 20 year old Suzuki RG 250 for £100 and finally, a week or so back, I had time to take the engine out.



Now I have to make the minimum alterations to the frame to get the new engine attached. The top pulley can't be moved in any direction at all, it must stay where it is or the fan won't be safe in between the duct, the splitter plate and the guards. So I'm hoping to leave the frame size exactly as it is and add whatever I need to mount the new engine.

The Suki is twice the weight of the Kohler but three times the power!



I've done some basic measurements and it looks like I'll need two rectangles of 1" box or angle iron welded onto the frames down-legs, with vertical plates for the engine to bolt to, with about an inch of adjustment up and down (slots) to get the drive shaft in exactly the right place. The bottom belt pulley will need to be attached to the frame rather than the engine (as it is now) on an adjustable plate so the belt can be re-tensioned as it wears and stretches.

Between the bottom pulley and the output shaft there'll now be an approximate six inch gap so I'll need a flexible coupling or UJ of some sort to allow for the engine moving on it's rubber mountings and also to allow the engine to be removed leaving the frame and fan in place.

I had hoped to simply swing the two exhausts around and point them straight up (50% reduction in exhaust sound that way) but it won't be so easy as the silencers would then cross at an angle in front of duct and I want to block as little of the airflow as possible.

So I'll either need to cut and re-weld the curved part of the front pipes or make two complete new sections and weld the front expansion boxes onto them. I'm also a bit wary of having to mount the Suki engine slightly towards it's 'front' (exhaust side) to line up the output shaft and then the exhausts might not fit past the hover body.

Plus I'm aware that it could unbalance the hover if I get it all too far over.



If I have to move the engine back towards the hover centre-line to get the exhausts to clear the body then the belt will run at a slight angle. That's not a problem unless the bottom pulley fouls the down leg of the frame...

So there's plenty of carefull measurements to do, and some tricky calculations. I've got the basics clear in my head and if the weather's OK this week-end I'll try placing the bits in the hover to see how it all fits...

/if/ it all fits!

Regards
Peter