Pickhill Engineering

[BarleyBaron600]

Hello...

Some time ago, a farmer I was working for gave me a Pickhill oil cooled welder which he was otherwise going to scrap as it kept throwing the trip no matter how low the setting.

I'm unsure what model it is, and its not practical to look at the plate on it or post any pictures due to the machine being stored 200 miles away from where I am at the moment! One thing I know for sure is that it is not a Bantam - It is approximately twice the physical size of one - i guess it is around a 250-300A welder, is on wheels and can be used on single, twin and three-phase electrics depending on how its wired. It can also be used as a battery charger if required.

What I would like to know is what model it is likely to be (if someone says the name it will ring a bell as I did make a note of it years ago but have since lost that!) and also what is likely to be causing it to trip the electrics upon switching it on, no matter how the live feed is wired in. Also - would this be an easy fix and are parts available from anywhere?

If someone knows the model I suppose I could drop Pickhill a line and go from there myself!

Anyway, hopefully somebody will be able to help!

Many Thanks,
Jonny.

 

[rtbcomp]

Welcome to the forum.

Can you clarify whether it's the RCD or MCB that's tripping?

 

[weldequip]

Primary windings have gone in the transformer - kaput! (that's why the farmer was after getting rid) Don't waste any time on it - scrap the copper for a few quid

 

[brightspark]

Primary windings have gone in the transformer - kaput! (that's why the farmer was after getting rid) Don't waste any time on it - scrap the copper for a few quid

as said above pickhill are still in buisness up in thirsk but only sell and repair generators now not make welders. it would cost well over 150 quid to fix it even if u found someone to do it

 

[GeorgeB]

Primary windings have gone in the transformer - kaput! (that's why the farmer was after getting rid) Don't waste any time on it - scrap the copper for a few quid

That's instant diagnosis and condemnation from hundreds of miles away, for you, with not as much as a 'maybe' or 'in all likelihood.' How can you possibly be so sure? I think you're PROBABLY correct but I'd urge the OP to get someone who understands the basic wiring and set-up to take a look at the machine before deciding it can't be fixed. It MIGHT be something simple like a loose wire shorting out, or something wrong with the farmer's power supply, for all we know.

There are very few parts, as such, inside one of those oil immersed welders. The first challenge is lifting the top plate and all the windings clear of the tank and oil. It has to be left to drain. Once the transformer, switch mechanisms and everything have been cleaned up a bit it should be possibly to test for short circuits or any other simple fault. Do base any final decision on facts rather than guesswork.

 

[weldequip]

That's instant diagnosis and condemnation from hundreds of miles away, for you, with not as much as a 'maybe' or 'in all likelihood.' How can you possibly be so sure?

Oh, I'm going to bed...you carry on with your expert opinion George!

 

[brightspark]

george has a valid point. eg a half perishided rubber lead on welder. moisture in the oil giving leakage to earth 30ma isnt a lot to knock an rcd off , that equates to just the moisture in your skin my oilcooled has rubber cable supplying it . after 30 years ive just changed it . it went all chewy and split . if its free and u have the time take the top and leads off do an insulation test on the coils and mains lead to earth with a 500v megger . a 5 minue job to test. u might be lucky u might not even a monkey can test with a megger its not rocket science

 

[rtbcomp]

We still don't know whether it's the RCD, MCB, does it trip when starting to weld? or as soon as you plug it in?

 

[BarleyBaron600]

When I picked it up in the first place, i tried it in the workshop with a three phase red plug into the mains, a twin phase blue plug in a large generator and a domestic single phase three pin plug. It threw the trip on the mains power sources and pulled the generator down almost to the point of stalling.

That was just when I turned it on, before picking up the torch.

Thanks for your help so far, very interesting!

 

[rtbcomp]

So it looks like it's the MCB and it's drawing too much current.

Assuming the contactor isn't stuck closed the transformer is probably OK.

Is there any sign of burning? look where the mains cable enters the machine, maybe there is a shorted out supressor?

 

[brightspark]

When I picked it up in the first place, i tried it in the workshop with a three phase red plug into the mains, a twin phase blue plug in a large generator and a domestic single phase three pin plug. It threw the trip on the mains power sources and pulled the generator down almost to the point of stalling.

That was just when I turned it on, before picking up the torch.

Thanks for your help so far, very interesting!

that realy sounds like the primary windings are down as u said the mains have rcd protection but the generator probably hasnt so would still try and run the welder without tripping .it wont be a dead short as it would have blown the fuse or mcb on the genny but the exces amperage is trying to pull the genny down as it draws more current than it can handle

 

[rtbcomp]

that realy sounds like the primary windings are down ...........

It cuts out before the trigger is pulled - surely the transformer is not connected at this point?

 

[brightspark]

It cuts out before the trigger is pulled - surely the transformer is not connected at this point?

its an oilcooled arc welder so the transformer is conected the second its plugged in

 

[rtbcomp]

its an oilcooled arc welder so the transformer is conected the second its plugged in

Opps - that's me getting confused again - I got it into my head it was MIG.

 

[brightspark]

Opps - that's me getting confused again - I got it into my head it was MIG.

 

[GeorgeB]

would this be an easy fix and are parts available from anywhere?

It could be a relatively easy fix if the problem is anything other than a short circuit within the primary winding of the main transformer. If it's the latter, I doubt if it would be economic to repair. If you can remove the transformer and everything from the main tank, it should be possible to disconnect the main transformer and test it in isolation. Perhaps you could check the resistance across the primary. If was me, I'd apply 240VAC straight into the primary on a 13A fuse, having made sure there's no load whatsoever connected to the secondary winding of the transformer. If it's anything like an Oxford, RT180 there's probably only two secondary outputs - 50v and 80v, plus negative of course. The main transformer is not tapped further on the secondary side, so if the 13A fuse doesn't blow immediately, you could then measure the voltages hopefully coming out of the secondary. I wouldn't hesitate to run short tests like this with the transformer out of the oil. In my experience, there's no way it will get hot enough to matter.

PS What's the reason for the Big Brother thing, showing that I deleted the previous post before reposting it? So unnecessary.

 

[Wozzaaah]

It's not unnecessary George, the reason is that members know if anything has been deleted or edited, either by the OP or one of us site staff.
We thought it better that members can see if any posts have been moderated and why.
We've always been able to see it but now everyone can.
We'd prefer members to state why they delete their posts too, keeps everyone happy (well, most anyway).

 

[redfox76]

It is more than likely the Giant 220 amp welder

Hello...

Some time ago, a farmer I was working for gave me a Pickhill oil cooled welder which he was otherwise going to scrap as it kept throwing the trip no matter how low the setting.

I'm unsure what model it is, and its not practical to look at the plate on it or post any pictures due to the machine being stored 200 miles away from where I am at the moment! One thing I know for sure is that it is not a Bantam - It is approximately twice the physical size of one - i guess it is around a 250-300A welder, is on wheels and can be used on single, twin and three-phase electrics depending on how its wired. It can also be used as a battery charger if required.

What I would like to know is what model it is likely to be (if someone says the name it will ring a bell as I did make a note of it years ago but have since lost that!) and also what is likely to be causing it to trip the electrics upon switching it on, no matter how the live feed is wired in. Also - would this be an easy fix and are parts available from anywhere?

If someone knows the model I suppose I could drop Pickhill a line and go from there myself!





Many Thanks,
Jonny.

It is more than likely the Giant 220 amp welder. hope that helps

 

[neilarmo]

Yes it will be a pickhill giant if it's like this.....

 

[redfox76]

repair a Pickhill Giant

Hello...

Some time ago, a farmer I was working for gave me a Pickhill oil cooled welder which he was otherwise going to scrap as it kept throwing the trip no matter how low the setting.

I'm unsure what model it is, and its not practical to look at the plate on it or post any pictures due to the machine being stored 200 miles away from where I am at the moment! One thing I know for sure is that it is not a Bantam - It is approximately twice the physical size of one - i guess it is around a 250-300A welder, is on wheels and can be used on single, twin and three-phase electrics depending on how its wired. It can also be used as a battery charger if required.

What I would like to know is what model it is likely to be (if someone says the name it will ring a bell as I did make a note of it years ago but have since lost that!) and also what is likely to be causing it to trip the electrics upon switching it on, no matter how the live feed is wired in. Also - would this be an easy fix and are parts available from anywhere?

If someone knows the model I suppose I could drop Pickhill a line and go from there myself!

Anyway, hopefully somebody will be able to help!

Many Thanks,
Jonny.

DISCONNECT THE MAINS SUPPLY

Undo all the 1/4" bolts on the top, get someone to help you to lift the top which is connected to the transformer out of the oil, rest the transformer on top of one the side of the oil tank and put a piece of wood across the other side and rest the other side of the top on this wood and let the whole lot drain into the oil tank or base (the part with wheels on)

You will see 3 coils , primary (where the incoming mains supply leads to)
Secondary next to the primary on the transformer AND A CHOKE COIL to select welding amps. The secondary coil and choke are almost certain to be ok. so check the primary coil for an area of melted copper, if you find this, that is the problem. If the primary is OK (unlikely) go to the main terminal block ( where the mains electric is fed in) on the lid of the welder dismantle the 1/4" brass bolts there are 4 and a central steel threaded bolt check that none of the wires coming from there to the primary coil are disconnected or broken and that the 4 brass bolts have small insulation washers intact. (that is the 2nd most probable fault and easily repaired).

If it is the primary coil ,it could be possible to repair this and make it work on 240 volts only, but you need luck on your side The primary coil have 4 wires coming out of it nearest to the center of the coil a single copper wire going in that is the start of the coil of wire or 0 volts and leads to the incoming live ( I think)

You will then see 2 wires coming from the coil joined together this is the 240 volt tapping and leads to 240 on the mains terminal block
Further out on the coil I think there are 2 more joined ( the second tapping) wires coming to 330 volts or some thing like that on the terminal block
and finally a final single wire coming out connected to the 440 volt mark on the terminal block.

I accept no responsibility for any of this information.

However if the blown part of the coil is after the start of the coil (0 volts)
and after the 240 volt tapping, if you can safely unsolder the joint on the 240 volt tapping and COMPLETELY ISOLATE AND INSULATE THESE 2 WIRES YOU ARE IN BUSINESS TEST WHICH ON OF THESE WIRES IS CONNECTED TO THE 0 VOLTS (IE COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT) AND CONNECT THOSE TO WIRES TO THE TERMINAL BLOCK. PLUG IN on 240 volts whilst still on the wood AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS IF IT BANGS NO GOOD, IF IT HUMS IT WORKS.

If it works you will find the oil tank has water in it (simply condensation) separate the water from the oil and put it all back together, its not worth putting new oil in if a Farmer used the machine

REPEAT I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY BUT DONE CORRECTLY IT WILL WORK. KNOWING PICKHILL ENGINEERS THEY WILL QUOTE A FORTUNE FOR THIS REPAIR A NEW PRIMARY COIL OIL CHANGE ETC ETC

Simple!!!! 1/2 Hour to find the fault 1/2 hour to repair it depending on your skill level but does it matter if it takes 6 hours

if you need to, contact me on my email redfoxrun76@hotmail.com I am on holiday in Spain and only found your site and post by accident
please let me know how you got on especially if it works





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