It appears that the 307 doesn't have a toothed ring, here's a thread I found on another forum which has some useful info about your problem.
http://www.rac.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?3589-Peugeot-307-ABS-fault
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It appears that the 307 doesn't have a toothed ring, here's a thread I found on another forum which has some useful info about your problem.
http://www.rac.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?3589-Peugeot-307-ABS-fault
I will physically check the car this weekend when I should have the new sensor in my hand. When the chap used the reader he put it in "live data" mode and moved the car a couple of feet and the screen showed 3 wheels had a scope reading but the front right was blank. I have already inspected the ABS module and checked the plugs and pins. All sound and nice and clean.
So received my new airflow meter today and before I changed it I decided to run the engine still with the old meter disconnected electrically to see if it still revved to the 5kplus mark it did when I first disconnected it. It didn't! So I replaced it with the new unit and plugged it in and ran the engine and it still was in limp mode! So I then decided to replace the EGR solenoid as I had already bought it and it still remained in limp mode! I will have to go back to the friendly garage and see if they will read it again to see what is what!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Run it again.
Clamp of return line to tank/ or filter.
I am away from my computer, so don't know if return is direct to tank or filter. Via a "T" piece.
If it clears and runs normally, ignore any dash lights, then you have a pump pressure fault.
They throw up a host of faults, but never a pressure rail issue.
Clamp of return line to tank/ or filter.
I am away from my computer, so don't know if return is direct to tank or filter. Via a "T" piece.
If it clears and runs normally, ignore any dash lights, then you have a pump pressure fault.
They throw up a host of faults, but never a pressure rail issue.
The dash light for eng fault does not work. It was tested using a reader and that particular light failed to test so assume the lcd is kaput. I had the panel out but without taking the instrument needles off(did not want to do that) I could not actually get to the circuitry. I was only trying to see if some wise guy had blacked that particular warning symbol just to sell the car!
And a pump pressure fault means big bucks I suppose!
And a pump pressure fault means big bucks I suppose!
Reading in the Haynes manual the fuel system has both a fuel pressure switch which controls a fuel pressure valve via the ECU. It seems neither of these can be replaced as a stand alone item. The switch is part of the accumulator rail and the valve is part of the HP pump.
I replaced the sensor at the right front ABS today. The bolt came out okay but I wish these car makers would decide to use either torx head or allen key heads on the bolts on their models. Its a pain in the rump. Getting the new one in is a bit fiddly as it is a tight fit in the hub and getting in the correct position so that the bolt goes in is a pain. There seems to be some form of magnetic ring on the hub that the sensor works on. I made sure that was intact and all was clean and no rust or dirt before fitting. On to the horn not working now. The horn itself works and the fuse is OK so next is to check the relay and then if that is OK the steering wheel airbag will have to come off to gain access to the push ring.
I replaced the sensor at the right front ABS today. The bolt came out okay but I wish these car makers would decide to use either torx head or allen key heads on the bolts on their models. Its a pain in the rump. Getting the new one in is a bit fiddly as it is a tight fit in the hub and getting in the correct position so that the bolt goes in is a pain. There seems to be some form of magnetic ring on the hub that the sensor works on. I made sure that was intact and all was clean and no rust or dirt before fitting. On to the horn not working now. The horn itself works and the fuse is OK so next is to check the relay and then if that is OK the steering wheel airbag will have to come off to gain access to the push ring.
AARVARK surely running with the return blocked will result in fuel lines blowing. I understand that trick working if the engine is not starting and trying to increase the fuel pressure to confirm its because of low pressure supply but a bit too dodgy for me in this case.
The car has a Multi Function Display unit that was not working. Investigation revealed that
1. It was disconnected (suspicious)
2. All three backlight bulbs were blown so even if it was connected it did not display to be able to be read.
I removed the unit and checked it, bought 3 new capless 1.2w bulbs and replaced it in the car. Upshot is that it works, clock and all, but found on startup that there was a fault message reading " Antipollution Fault". Now this is probably the reason why it was disconnected but doing that did not hide the fault as it is probably that which is causing the limp mode fault. Trouble is I have had the EGR system apart and checked the basic mechanical/vacuum bits and replaced the EGR solenoid valve. I am just wondering if that will mean getting it read so that it talks to the ECU?
1. It was disconnected (suspicious)
2. All three backlight bulbs were blown so even if it was connected it did not display to be able to be read.
I removed the unit and checked it, bought 3 new capless 1.2w bulbs and replaced it in the car. Upshot is that it works, clock and all, but found on startup that there was a fault message reading " Antipollution Fault". Now this is probably the reason why it was disconnected but doing that did not hide the fault as it is probably that which is causing the limp mode fault. Trouble is I have had the EGR system apart and checked the basic mechanical/vacuum bits and replaced the EGR solenoid valve. I am just wondering if that will mean getting it read so that it talks to the ECU?
Today the car had a run of about 12 miles with 2 stops in between. Fastest speed was 50 or so and have done the same run only last week. This time on pulling up at the house I decided to give it a rev to see if the snag was still there and lo and behold it revved up to plus 5000rpm. I did it a couple or three times and away it went. I then moved the car a couple of feet using gravity(on a hill) and then revved it again and bu**er me it was back in limp mode!!
dobbslc
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Temperamental French git!
I'm following this thread and hope you sort it out, I've got a Zafira diesel so feel your pain!
Have a really good look at any vacuum or turbo pipes for splits as I had a similar thing on the Crapira as my boys call it. The "air intake" fault keep coming up but I couldn't find the problem until I took a small vacuum hose off and found a tiny split in the underside of it! I'd looked at it a dozen times but couldn't see anything wrong.
It was the vacuum pipe to the turbo solenoid so it caused the turbo to lag badly and cause the limp mode fault to occur, that in turn wouldn't let the dpf do a regeneration and it went round in a vicious Vauxhall circle...
Anyway check every hose you can find and taken them off to inspect if you can.
I'm following this thread and hope you sort it out, I've got a Zafira diesel so feel your pain!
Have a really good look at any vacuum or turbo pipes for splits as I had a similar thing on the Crapira as my boys call it. The "air intake" fault keep coming up but I couldn't find the problem until I took a small vacuum hose off and found a tiny split in the underside of it! I'd looked at it a dozen times but couldn't see anything wrong.
It was the vacuum pipe to the turbo solenoid so it caused the turbo to lag badly and cause the limp mode fault to occur, that in turn wouldn't let the dpf do a regeneration and it went round in a vicious Vauxhall circle...
Anyway check every hose you can find and taken them off to inspect if you can.
The 1.4 hdi is a basic diesel with turbo relative to the other models in the range i.e the 1.6 and 2.0 litre models and as such has much less equipment on it to go wrong! So saying the engine defect has now started to come and go. Today I did a 20 mile run and getting home after parking and setting the handbrake I decided to rev the engine. First stomp on throttle it was in limp and then the next 4 stomps had it on full range. Then a final stomp and it had had enough of hard work and went back in to limp mode! Yes, typical French worker!! It means to me that holes in hoses or pipes would not fix themselves and then break so I am leaning towards a leaking injector or something on the fuel side. I have already done a full service changing all the filters. I cut the old fuel filter apart to see if it was dirty but it was quite clean even though the rest of the filters and the oil had past their best!
slim_boy_fat
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Could it be that one of the pipes has 'de-laminated' internally and is sucking itself together under higher engine demand? 
slim_boy_fat
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Was that a visual inspection of the condition of the outsides of the pipes? I genuinely don't know how you'd check the integrity of the inside surfaces.....
