Pedrazzoli Cold Saw.........Project Saw

[zzr1200]

I bought one about 10 years ago as a project - supposedly the motor needed re-winding, but in practice it was fine - the problem was a stripped gear. I was able to buy spares from a UK dealer - the gear and also the two speed motor switch, which is mounted on the base on mine. Very good saws. Shame about your vice as that wont be easy to fix. Mine also has the hydraulic assist like yours.View attachment 86412

You mention a stripped gear, was it the gear on the output shaft by any chance?

And if so did you replace it by removing the motor armiture and output shaft or just. the output shaft?

 

[awemawson]

I stripped the armature out of the motor and replaced the smaller gear that is on the end if it. I seem to remember that 'once inside' it was fairly straight forward but it's a long time ago and memories fade!

 

[zzr1200]

I've been looking at the problem this morning and I have come to the conclusion that my phase converter is probably to small or the other possibility is the 2 speed switch has infaultly/intermittent connections.

Tested the motor at work by plugging it into the 400/415 volt socket that supply's the roller shutter doors, both speeds worked several times with no problem.

Brought the saw home and retested it on my converter at home the motor just buzz's (no movement), I removed the lift pump and adaptor but the armiture turns freely, so I suspect lack of power...

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Is it an inverter or converter you are using?

 

[zzr1200]

Is it an inverter or converter you are using?

Transwave rotary converter admittedly only a 2.2kw but it's not as there's a high start up load on a cold saw, but being as a converter produces a phantom phase this maybe another problem.

The cold saws seems to state that the motor runs at 4.4/4.1 amps depending on the speed, when I turn on the converter it shows 14+ amps on the gauge and the just motor buzzes, but testing at work on main voltage I didn't have any problems at all...

I'll have to look at an inverter, but 415 volt inverters cost....

Any advice would be helpful and can anyone tell me what HP the motor is from the data plate?

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Transwave rotary converter admittedly only a 2.2kw but it's not as there's a high start up load on a cold saw, but being as a converter produces a phantom phase this maybe another problem.

The cold saws seems to state that the motor runs at 4.4/4.1 amps depending on the speed, when I turn on the converter it shows 14+ amps on the gauge and the just motor buzzes, but testing at work on main voltage I didn't have any problems at all...

I'll have to look at an inverter, but 415 volt inverters cost....

Any advice would be helpful and can anyone tell me what HP the motor is from the data plate?

Try shifting all the phases round one position,
Wire 1 was on terminal 1 now on terminal 2.
Wire 2 was on terminal 2 now on terminal 3.
Wire 3 was on terminal 3 now on terminal 1.

 

[awemawson]

Wendle I know what you are suggesting is probably to get any contactor coils not on the 'wild' leg of the converter, but if it's like my Pedrazzoli saw the motor is switched directly by the rotary two speed switch with no contactors involved.

Two speed motors are notoriously had to drive from converters.

 

[zzr1200]

Wendle I know what you are suggesting is probably to get any contactor coils not on the 'wild' leg of the converter, but if it's like my Pedrazzoli saw the motor is switched directly by the rotary two speed switch with no contactors involved.

Two speed motors are notoriously hard to drive from converters.

Even harder to drive when their only connected across 2 phases.................

The motor has a broken switch enclosure which still has the mains feed cable from the previous owner (no point in pulling the field winding's wires around to much causing damage, the new enclosure arrives tomorrow), so I've been using a connector block with new cable connecting to the old cable.

Spent an hour tonight looking at the problem, shuffled the phases but no difference, then I spotted my mistake, the motor has the old wiring colour code (3 phase wires and earth) and the new cable is the new colour code with 5 wires ,(3 phases, neutral and earth)......

Top Tip: Check the wirings colour coding properly...

I'm officially a 3 phase wiring numpty.........

The motor starts n runs nicely now, tomorrow the switch enclosure and 2 blades should arrive fingers crossed.....

 

[Robotstar5]

Spent an hour tonight looking at the problem, shuffled the phases but no difference, then I spotted my mistake, the motor has the old wiring colour code (3 phase wires and earth) and the new cable is the new colour code with 5 wires ,(3 phases, neutral and earth)......

Bit of an issue with the blue & black wires then?

As long as it's sorted now.

 

[zzr1200]

Bit of an issue with the blue & black wires then?

.............Hmm........yes..............

 

[dobbslc]

Bloody European harmonization of wiring colours!
Anyhow......

How's the football going?

 

[zzr1200]

Anyhow......

How's the football going?

Don't know couldn't give a flying

 

[dobbslc]

Nor could I really. Moto GP is my thing.

 

[zzr1200]

The new switch enclosure arrived today with 2 new blades, fitted the enclusure this evening, along with a new length of 4 core multiflex sy cable. Still have to sort out the blade cooling system, I will either use the electric suds pump/tank that came with the saw or re-instate/repair the mechanical suds system.

I'm tempted to repair the standard mechanical cooling system, it just means repairing or placing the pump unit.

 

[awemawson]

The original suds pump that mounts on the back end of the main motor is nothing less than a vehicle fuel lift pump!

Mine packed up, and the flange mount for the diaphragm was exactly the same as the spare that I happened to have for my (now sold) JCB 3CX so I Fitted the entire flange / diaphragm / valve assembly and it's still going strong several years later

 

[rory1]

The lift pump on mine often fills up with fine swift and blocks, I just pop the six of so screws off the body and blow it out.

 

[zzr1200]

Update:

Cleaned out the swarf from the cooling tank this evening, then refitted the cover plate on the back of the base unit/cooling tank.

Installed a new coolant pump unit, hoses and fitted an inline fuel filter for extra protection for the lift pump. Filled the suds tank and checked for any leaks, then ran the saw .

Test cut alloy/steel box section and bar stock. Sure beats a hacksaw and it cuts nice flat/square ends.

I'll have to have a count up the invoices and see how much this has cost me.

 

[tinman123]

I have a 205 litre drum of neat cutting oil on eBay at the moment - Rye Oils Neatcut 22 suitable for ferrous and non ferrous metals, sawing, turning & milling

its cheap at that price now but id suspect youd like it to make more before the end.
i have 1,000 ltrs of castrol hysol soluble oil here, its in a cube, id like shot of it tbh, new its cumin in at, wait for it.......
£6,300+vodka for it iirc.
id be easily talked to if i had the right man, iirc its geared for alu more than anything but its good for all, i think its synthetic.
i dont know whats the best way of getin rid of it, i dont want to be pouring it into 1ltr bottles and sellin it on e bay, i just dont want the hassle tbh.

The new switch enclosure arrived today with 2 new blades, fitted the enclusure this evening, along with a new length of 4 core multiflex sy cable. Still have to sort out the blade cooling system, I will either use the electric suds pump/tank that came with the saw or re-instate/repair the mechanical suds system.

I'm tempted to repair the standard mechanical cooling system, it just means repairing or placing the pump unit.

i see you have the coolant sorted but if ever again your faced with a similar query you could use a mist coolant set up, there are expensive ones to be got but if your not fussy the best end of one can be got on e bay from far east for less than £5,
i got one here to see if it was up to much before id take the plunge for a dear one.

its a good way of keeping the work and tool cool, you do need an air supply but that shouldn't be a problem id assume.
the air siphons the coolant mix from a bottle and as it dose it keeps the cutting area clear of swarf and last but not least it dosent use much coolant so it goes a long way.

 

[Robotstar5]

i see you have the coolant sorted but if ever again your faced with a similar query you could use a mist coolant set up, there are expensive ones to be got but if your not fussy the best end of one can be got on e bay from far east for less than £5,
i got one here to see if it was up to much before id take the plunge for a dear one.

its a good way of keeping the work and tool cool, you do need an air supply but that shouldn't be a problem id assume.
the air siphons the coolant mix from a bottle and as it dose it keeps the cutting area clear of swarf and last but not least it dosent use much coolant so it goes a long way.

Is inhaling the airborne coolant mist safe?

 

[tinman123]

Is inhaling the airborne coolant mist safe?

who knows, its a divided group from what i seen.
im sure its not, but id say its about as safe as the umpteen other things you would come in contact with in a workshop.
you can set it to dribble if you want and it only mists when you have it near full tilt so there are options.
you could set up an extractor system if you were really worried but id say its about as safe as the rollie im smoking here right now.