Parting blade holder

[jordhandson]

Leading on from the parting tool suggestions post as you know I bought one of them Iscar Tang Grip blades. Today I started to make the holder I had a piece of forklift fork off cut,


I square up the surfaces



then cut a 36mm X 3.5mm deep channel then used the dovetail cutter to put an angle in the bottom to pull the blade in against the holder face.



Now I am stuck this is where I am at the moment,



as I am undecided whether to make the clamp part push down on the top of the blade



or clamp the blade from the side



Not sure which would be the best option.

I have not yet machined the area where it mounts to the Dickson quick change tool post as I have not yet got a T slot cutter.

 

[mike os]

It should press both ways.... angled on the edge

 

[jordhandson]

Thanks to Mike os comment I had a re-think on how I was to bolt the clamping part, I think I have managed to get the clamping part done with good holding pressure. Whether it will be strong enough I will find out when I use it, fingers crossed. And I am one bold short I only had three ¼ bsf allen key bolts left. I cannot yet mill out the back side to mount it to the Dickson yet as still not found the right T slot cutter. Another job I will have to come back to when I find the cutter I need. Cheers Jord

 

[jordhandson]

This afternoon whilst having a tea break I was thinking about this t-slot cutter all of a sudden the penny dropped, could I make one from an end mill. Looking through my end mills I found I had four 7/8th imperial ones, I hate cannibalising a good tool but impatient me though lets have a go. I chucked some cloth on the bed to keep some of the grinding dust off and set the grinder up in the vice, I zip tied the switch and just used the socket switch to keep a safe distance in case anything went wrong, first used a slitting disc to get a good tight corner then grond most of the shaft with the grinding disc, then went back in again with the slitting disc the clean up where I couldnt get with the gringing disc



I ran the mill in reverse approx 800 rpm and fed the grinder in against the work, hey presto all done ready to give it a go tomorrow.



If I break it I can always make another as there is plenty of length on the end mill.

 

[Hood]

Not really sure about your clamping method, looks like it would want to rise up as you clamp but maybe I am seeing it wrong.
Below is the normal way that two part holders are done.

 

[jordhandson]

Not really sure about your clamping method, looks like it would want to rise up as you clamp but maybe I am seeing it wrong.
Below is the normal way that two part holders are done.

View attachment 275101

From what I have found on the net there are so many ways to go, the proof as to wether I have done it ok or not will be if it works. I do like that idea youve posted if mine fails that will be the next idea.

 

[Hood]

This is another method that is used, most commonly on VDI holders.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

and just used the socket switch to keep a safe distance in case anything went wrong,

What could possibly have gone wrong? They say necessity is the Mother of Invention, well done you for persevering and [hopefully] finding a 'workshop hack'.

 

[jordhandson]

What could possibly have gone wrong? They say necessity is the Mother of Invention, well done you for persevering and [hopefully] finding a 'workshop hack'.

Cheers slim

 

[jordhandson]

This is another method that is used, most commonly on VDI holders.

View attachment 275104

Cheers Hood looks pretty much the same or similar clampping part I have done that makes me feel a lot more posative with it.

 

[Hood]

Cheers Hood looks pretty much the same or similar clampping part I have done that makes me feel a lot more posative with it.

Except it has the wedge/angled face at the top only and thus when tightening the clamping part is pushed down as well as inwards.

 

[jordhandson]

Looking forward to today with the T slot cutter first though I had a little painting job to finish off that went well, which is always a good indication as to how the days going to be.



Once that was done and busting with enthusiasm I started to mill the T slot I started slow approx 650 rpm ½ IPM and was only taking .250mm everything was going well until I push it to far and took a 2.5mm cut ping the dam cutter busted. Oh well time for a tea and a smoke, I figured out that on the bottom end of the end mill I cut there was quite a recess I did wonder if this was going to be a week point at the time, turns out I was right.



Tea finished I chopped off the damaged piece and made another cutter, luckily the end mill was long enough. Once I had the new cutter cut and ground down I used the universal grinder I made and gave the cutter about 5 degree relief on the bottom and the top of the cutter. Second attempt the cutter works great it cuts deeper and faster,



now the teeth have more meat attached, brilliant, that's the worst part done. To save time figuring out all the angles I set the mill to the angles on one of my existing holders and cracked out the rest.



It fits and clamps to the tool post a treat.



Also the blade is nice and parallel when snuggled upto to the chuck face.



I then gave it a bit of a clean up and took off the corners on the linisher.



I have made a few boobs on it and its no show stopper, but it will do the job and Im happy



Now its done I now have to get an Iscar Tool ETG 3-4 and some Iscar Tang Grip TAG N3 inserts, I see there are some on the auction site, anyone know if they are genuine Iscar inserts, what I will probable do is just buy one insert to see if it works then get a packet of ten if all is well, as from what I have seen they aint cheap.

 

[jordhandson]

Except it has the wedge/angled face at the top only and thus when tightening the clamping part is pushed down as well as inwards.

Finger crossed

 

[Agroshield]

...looks pretty much the same or similar clamping part I have done that makes me feel a lot more positive with it.

As Mr Hood says, your one is subtly different and in a way that makes it less rather than more effective. You can easily adapt your one to the VDI style by milling away the lower sloping surface in the large block. You might also need to make the holes and counterbores in the clamping piece a bit bigger so it can move and not bind on the screws.

It is maybe not a good idea to run an Autolok collet chuck in reverse. There is a chance that the mill will unscrew from the collet.

 

[jordhandson]

As Mr Hood says, your one is subtly different and in a way that makes it less rather than more effective. You can easily adapt your one to the VDI style by milling away the lower sloping surface in the large block. You might also need to make the holes and counterbores in the clamping piece a bit bigger so it can move and not bind on the screws.

It is maybe not a good idea to run an Autolok collet chuck in reverse. There is a chance that the mill will unscrew from the collet.

Ive already run the chuck in reverse didnt have any probs, but good point I hadnt thought of that.good idea on the screw holes will see how it goes I will post as and when I give it a go. I would like to do a vid like Hoods but that could be shooting for the stars. Me and patring have never got on.

 

[jordhandson]

The insert tool arrived today It shouldnt have been here till the 25 feb, amazing some sellers now all I have to do is sort out some inserts

 

[Hood]

The insert tool arrived today It shouldnt have been here till the 25 feb, amazing some sellers now all I have to do is sort out some insertsView attachment 275594View attachment 275595

You should have said you were needing one, I have a few spare, get one each time I buy a set.

 

[jordhandson]

You should have said you were needing one, I have a few spare, get one each time I buy a set.

Ah thats handy to know I wont buy another I thought when it arrived today it wont last long

 

[Hood]

Ha ha how the heck are you going to destroy one of the keys?

 

[jordhandson]

Ha ha how the heck are you going to destroy one of the keys?

the pins