Paint runs!

[Smackfiend]

I've just sprayed my car with cellulose filler primer and I've got horrendous paint runs!

The car was keyed, panel wiped and tack clothed.

The filler primer was mixed 1:1 with thinners.

It was about 10ish degrees in the garage and started to go on okay but after a couple of minutes it started to run, even if I applied a light coat to other areas of the car.

Is this too cold to apply cellulose paint (ie the actual car is too cold)?

Or is there something else that I'm missing?

Also does anyone know if the etch primer underneath would have been removed / melted away due to the runs in the filler primer?

Thanks in advance, Ian

 

[the snooper]

to put it bluntly you put too much on

 

[Smackfiend]

That's what I thought after doing one side. So on the other side I was just applying mist coats as you would with etch primer but it just wasn't sticking, just running off.

 

[the snooper]

did you adjust the paint flow needle to stop so much coming from the gun ?

 

[langy]

To cold in my opinion.

 

[the snooper]

yeah probably was a bit cold, but should still be able to apply a coat without running ive done it before admittedly not a car , has it been 10 degrees anywhere yet

 

[500e]

To cold in my opinion.

I am with langley

 

[langy]

I am with langley

Its langy but you can call me Steve

 

[Smackfiend]

did you adjust the paint flow needle to stop so much coming from the gun ?

Nope, didn't adjust the gun at all, I'm relatavely new to spraying and it worked perfectly two weeks ago (when it was warmer).

To cold in my opinion.

I'm hoping so, I'll get some heaters set up next time.


Does anyone know if the etch primer underneath would have been removed / melted away due to the runs in the filler primer?

Thanks again, Ian

 

[the snooper]

the etch should be fine, raise the temp and check the output of the gun

 

[Daz1968]

I have used cellulose upol p88 primer but I have never added that much thinner to it, but I have only ever had runs when I put to much on either through bad technique due to inexperience or by having the paint to thin. The cold would just add to the problem though.

 

[500e]

Its langy but you can call me Steve

Whoops Sorry bout that you can call me what you want but Peter is what I answer to.
Regarding runs 50\50 thinners sounds to much, = 10Deg to cold, how does it run of a stirrer, always used that method to check mix if it ran off like water to thin, painting is part product knowledge part technique + what you make work.
We had a painter who could put paint on like water never ran, he could give me the gun (JGA) & I could not stop the sprinters let alone the runners

 

[Smackfiend]

the etch should be fine, raise the temp and check the output of the gun

Will do, thanks again!

Ian

 

[norsa]

I trust the substrate is compatible with celly ??
You can call me Nick

 

[Smackfiend]

Yeah, the same primers been fine on the inside of the car.

and it was even running on the areas where it was etch primer over bare metal and that's been fine before also.

Cheers,
Ian

 

[Smackfiend]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Had another go today, rubbed down all the runs, degreased, etch primed where bare metal was showing, waited a couple of hours then applied a thin coat if filler primer then after an hour applied another coat.

It went on fine, temperature was 22 degrees and the paint had no problems sticking this time.

The only problem was a couple of spots where the paint started cracking.

It happened the other day at another place, and all I did was sand it down, etched it and that area was fine after the filler primer, so hopefully it should be okay if I do the same on this area.

Cheers,
Ian

 

[Daz1968]

Looks like a mini you are doing, I have just got mine in primer but used 2k high build had a few problems with cellulose and gave up on it. I found it caused reactions with the 3m red stopper I was using and gave up on it. Had no such issues with 2k though and have invested in an airfed rather than put up with the odd problems as my confidence has improved a lot with 2k products.
Only way I found to solve that is sand down and paint area again but in light coats and let it fully dry before over coating
Here's a quick pic of how mine stands, nice to see a fellow mini enthusiast on here

 

[MG David]

I used to use etch primer but switched to epoxy. One of the reasons I switched was because of reaction when re-etchpriming after sand through.
What I found was that the etch primer and high build primer that I used worked very well together when applied in the normal order of etch primer straight on to the metal and then high build on top.
However, if I then sanded through to bare metal and so put some more etch primer on the rub through there would sometimes be a reaction where it overlapped the edge of the previous high build. With epoxy this never happens.