I am just in the process of getting some electrics sorted to run my old Oil Cooled welder. Fiddling with it today, it seems that the volts/amps selection lever wont turn far enough anti-clockwise on the dial but turns too far clockwise. The pics below show how far I can turn the lever clockwise and anticlockwise and let it drop down to engage. I have inherited this from father in law and havent used it, so I am not sure what the fix is or what might have caused it (presuming this isnt normal?)?
Looks like the handle has got out of position on the shaft that must go into the welder, Can you see how the handle is attached?
I'd attach forklift/hoist and lift the guts out of the tank to check whether it's making the right contacts inside, but yep, probably the handle's moved? Dave H. (the other one)
Ha. That looks like a potentially easy fix. It just screws onto the shaft and has a locking nut on it. I thought it would be keyed somehow. And if I realign it at its minimum setting, it sits in the right place on the max setting. Thanks chaps! This probably hasnt been used for 20 years - does the oil need changing or is the stuff usually fine? No signs of leaks. Been stored in the dry and very heavy so assume it has plenty in there!
The oil should be fine if it hasn't had water get in somehow, if it doesn't pop the RCD in your fusebox (and it isn't sitting in a pool of oil) it's likely good to go Dave H. (the other one)
I have a very similar Oxford 180 & it needs to be on a cooker feed or similar +32 amps. Mine is also fitted with a power factor correction condenser to minimise amps it pulls from the main but not absolutely necessary if you have a big enough feed. It comes into its own on big stuff. RonA
Thanks Ron. I am going to run it on a dedicated 32 amp circuit when we install it. I also have 3 phase - is it worth switching it over the 3 phase? I think its a case of wiring it correctly? If 3 phase, does the supply still need to be rated to 32 amps?
Yes probably. You’ll be able to get the full range out of the machine. Have a look at the raised metal box on top of the machine (if it’s the same as mine?) it should have all connections for 3 phase and normal supply. Mine was all marked up internally
Under the box on the top there are five terminals (like the marking for five on a dice). They are labelled 0 - bottom right, 240 - bottom left, 415 - top left, 440 - top right, E - middle. Thats all. I am guessing this is a single phase machine?? Unless you can put a phase to the 240, 415 and 440 terminals from a 3 phase supply?!
I haven’t got access to my machine as I’m not at home, but when I acquired the machine I found out from here that it can be wired 3 phase. I’m not knowledgeable on matters electrickery so can’t help. Perhaps @brightspark can offer some assistance, he’s a spark and may even have same type of welder
Thanks Parm, looking around the forum I think Brightspark does have one of these and I think you can wire the three phases as i describe above but cant seem to find a post that says that for certain, so will wait for someone to confirm!
they only use 2 of the phases either on 415 or 440v so one phase on 0 pole and the other phase on either the 415 or 440v pole depending on your supply voltage. put a volt meter on to test which it is
Ah! Ok. I keep forgetting that 3 phase doesn't need the neutral! That makes sense. Mine is 415v - I only know that from the testing you helped me with to diagnose a faulty MCB on the DB for the workshed last year. And just leave the 3rd phase unwired? Does this cause any imbalance? And in terms of supply rating - it should still be at 32 amps on 2 phase?
Check it actually has the 3-phase terminals connected to something though, some don't* - should see connectivity (a few Ohms max) between the 0 and the 415 - if you haven't got a meter, a battery and bulb will be enough to prove it. On 415 the max current should drop a bit, probably about 20A instead of 32A, and yep, leave the other phase and the neutral disconnected. Dave H. (the other one) *As I discovered after buying one to use as an auto-transformer for my rotary converter, before I spent a fortune on wire for a new 415v winding... Well, at least the welder was cheap!
Thanks to all with their help on this and the 'What power cable?' thread here: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/what-power-cable.102610/ The cable was ordered along with a plug and it all came today. I bought 20m cable and that will reach across the whole workshop. The welder is now on two phase and it works fine. My only issue is that I appear to only have 40amp and a 16amp (at the RCD) 3P+E sockets that are live in the workshop and two other 3P+E sockets present but not live. Ideally I guess this wants a 32 amp socket with a 20 or 32 amp RCD to run off or will I be ok running it off of the socket with the 40amp RCD? Thinking about it, that socket has 32amp written on it so that 40amp RCD should probably be changed for a 32 amp one?
I have had a few now the one at the workshop I decided to keep is configured 0V 110V 230V 415V, best of both worlds never seen that configuration before.
