Our tools and machines we hate using

[brightspark]

Well shorten it at the fixing point is no good for mine as the blades have a cutout groove to lock on the blade holder.

u cut the end of the blade not the base

 

[brewdexta]

I did use my noggin, used a better machine, quality blades and a very large cast iron block - I bought a meddings scroll saw

 

[DanielW]

u cut the end of the blade not the base

But why destroy a blade when a removable plate will do the same thing.

 

[DanielW]

I did use my noggin, used a better machine, quality blades and a very large cast iron block - I bought a meddings scroll saw

What how do manage to cut a worktop sink hole out on one of them? specially if the worktop is 8ft long.

 

[brewdexta]

What how do manage to cut a worktop sink hole out on one of them? specially if the worktop is 8ft long.

Unless I've got early onset dementia I can't remember saying I was cutting a worktop sink 'ole

 

[DanielW]

Unless I've got early onset dementia I can't remember saying I was cutting a worktop sink 'ole

Well you got it anway cos thats what windy was harping on about cutting a worktop sink hole with his wandering jiggy.

 

[mike os]

just get a decent jigsaw & decent blades, not a b&poo special

 

[brewdexta]

Well you got it anway cos thats what windy was harping on about cutting a worktop sink hole with his wandering jiggy.

The meddings wouldn't be an ideal site tool and although with a couple of roller stands you could probably do it you would have to be a masochist

I would use a jigsaw

 

[MattF]

I did use my noggin, used a better machine, quality blades and a very large cast iron block - I bought a meddings scroll saw

You bought that one the other month then, I'm guessing? They're large, sturdy pieces of kit, aren't they.

 

[brewdexta]

They are that, I have a small Proxxon scroll saw that I used on the Toylander and it was great but lacked a bit of throat, the meddings fixes that. Yes, I bought that one from Scott . I've only had a little play with the big-un so far.

 

[MattF]

They are that, I have a small Proxxon scroll saw that I used on the Toylander and it was great but lacked a bit of throat, the meddings fixes that. Yes, I bought that one from Scott . I've only had a little play with the big-un so far.

Good to see it found a good home. You'll not be disappointed with it.

One thing I would suggest doing as a matter of course with it, before you start using it too heavily, is draining the bottom cylinder and dropping the bottom plate from it, to get any gunge out of there. If it's had a fair bit of use for woodworking and maintenance hasn't been extensive, there's a good chance it may be quite packed with mushy sawdust in the bottom of that cylinder. There's a plate on the bottom which is just held on by three screws, so a simple enough affair to get your finger in there for broddling around. Fitting some type of filter on the breather pipe should stop that (re)occuring.

 

[johnakay]

brewdexta said.... I dumped my crap jigsaw!!! how did you manage that have you got a big orifice in your crack.

I have a metabo jigsaw with a variable speed and built in clutch of sort.
cuts through plates no problem but as with any jigsaw once you get past 13mm its start to wonder at the bottom.
this jigsaw is the or was top of the range of metabo jigsaw's rage it cost me £140 about 30 years ago.and still going strong.
I don't think jigsaw are made to cut anything thicker than 13mm/1/2" accurately .
if you need to cut fancy shapes get a bandsaw thats what it is design for.
like bright spark say shortened the blade less wobble at the tip.
sure it will cut work tops ,I've done it ..looked straight whilst cutting it but at the lower end slightly out but the sink will cover it.

 

[MattF]

The other options with something like a worktop is plunging a router with a straight cutting bit in there. Should be far straighter, top to bottom. Not something I'd personally fancy trying though.

 

[taycat]

The legend within the Landy world - the Hi-Lift jack. Horrible things, used at Pay 'n Play sites by numpties. I've seen folk changing tyre with them and on one scary occasion saw two lads crawling about under a 90 trying to wrestle a spring back in to it's seat after it had popped out. OK if used correctly but it's a tool that has 101 ways of maiming you and only one way of safely jacking up your motor.

remember going somewhere with dad couple of years ago with dad to pick old drill press we converted into tubing notcher.
guy over rd was changing front axle on swb s3 using 2 hi-lifts to hold front up.
all we heard was bang came of garage carrying drill looked over and saw s3 on floor and bloke white as sheet and shaking.
he had just crawled out from under it when it all tipped sideways.

dad always used hi-lift to change wheels but also carried axle stand, and slid wheel under 110 as extra safety.

 

[Maker]

Rather than modifying the base/blade, why not mark out on top and, using a body-grip saw, cut from underneath, looking at the top?

 

[CRB]

dad always used hi-lift to change wheels but also carried axle stand, and slid wheel under 110 as extra safety.

I have a farm-jack for emergencies in the LT. First time learning was a bit interesting, but, I too, use and axle stand, just in case.

I made a new nose which slips on, from an old bent stanchion.


I think this was my first thing I made using MMA. Not very good in places but better where you cannot see. A better one is in the 'round tuit' file.

 

[tomsutton529]

having that bad boy spinning round on the balancing machine this afternoon was a bit hairy.

 

[God mode restorations]

*** hell....awesome...what is it out of interest....

 

[roofman]

having that bad boy spinning round on the balancing machine this afternoon was a bit hairy.

looks like it belonged to some medival police station for obtaining the truth...what the hell is that off?

 

[tomsutton529]

A cutting head off a mill.. it spins at 1500 - 2000 rpm and chops wheat to make shredded wheat type things.

Edit: Scrap the above figures... its 3000 RPM..