Newbie choosing voltage and wire speed

  1. Albioninoz New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Australia
    Hi guys,
    I'm new at this and am in the process of restoring a 1957 Rover car. I have a Lotos MIG 140 welder that I've had but hardly used for about 5 years. My problem is that I cannot work out how to set the dials correctly for the 1mm sheet that forms the cars bodywork - I seem forever to be blowing holes in it. The welder has 2 dials, MIG Voltage amd MMA Current and I cannot find any manual to help. Also I'm using gasless wire (if that makes any difference). The photo shows these dials. I'd be really grateful if anyone cam tell me what settings I should used for 1mm thick mild steel. Thanks, Ray
     
    • wwelder1.jpg
  2. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,354
    Location:
    Kent
    mma current will be for when you use the stick welding mode.

    try the mig voltage at 14 the lowest setting and see what happens

    gassless wire aint the best for 1mm car body work
     
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  3. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    10,164
    Location:
    westyorkshire
  4. eddie49 Member

    The front panel of your welder is marked up in a rather strange way. The flip switch for Arc ( upper setting ) or MIG ( lower setting ) has the "1" and "0" marking, as if it was a power on/off switch. The plastic nut that apparently fixes the MIG torch ( not a Eurotorch ) to the front panel has the typical marking that is used for a wirefeed speed control, but there does not seem to be an actual wire speed control? Perhaps when set to MIG mode, the "MMA Current" knob is switched to have that function?

    As for blowing holes, that is often a problem when fixing thin rusty sheet metal on car bodywork. At least a 1957 Rover bodyshell started off at a decent thickness!
    I would suggest laying some 2" to 3" long straight beads on new shiny 1mm sheet, and posting photos on here for comments and advice.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  5. Albioninoz New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Australia
    Thanks for this. I got this manual with the welder but reading it has made me none the wiser. I'll see if I can check with the local supplier.
     
  6. Albioninoz New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Australia
    Thanks for this. I agree and it's very frustrating that nothing seems to equate with most instructions for general MIG welding. The MMA Current dial does seem to function as wire speed when in MIG mode. Waht I was thinking of doing was drilling a smallish hole in the edge of the panel and welding on a backing plate then inserting the patch piece and welding in. That way I'm not relying on welding to (possibly) thinner rusty panels. If I continue having problems I'll take some photos. Thanks again for the advice.
     
  7. Munkul Member

    Messages:
    1,959
    Cumbria, UK
    You're fighting a losing battle with gasless MIG and 1mm sheet.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  8. Munkul Member

    Messages:
    1,959
    Cumbria, UK
    It's cost saving by Lotos, so they can buy the cheapest off-the-shelf switch to work with the welder.
     
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  9. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    10,164
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    i agree just looked through it theres only a guide on arc but yet its not actually a guide either
     
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  10. Albioninoz New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Australia
    Looks like I need to get a small gas bottle and do some test welds. Thanks for the advise,
     
  11. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Welcome aboard, fella :waving:

    They don't last long, typically 10-15 mins depending on settings. :( Also, you'll need a small reel of gas wire.

    You don't mention having cut out [or intending to] all the rusty metal, wasting your time to patch over it.
    Use CAD [Cardboard Aided Design :laughing:] templates for marking out and cutting your new metal. :thumbup:

    The forum tutorials [green buttons at the top of the pags are a good starting point ;)

    Good luck and keep us with pics as you progress. :)
     
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  12. FFFroggy New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Kent, UK
    Just to add my bit... If you can set the wire speed, try to set it as fast as you can handle. If it's too slow you give the heat a chance to spread and blow holes, you want to keep touching the trigger and leaving neat little pools about an inch apart, then go back if necessary and add more. It also helps control distortion. And if you have room behind, consider a heat sink too, like a thick metal block, but this only works if you can avoid welding it to the bodywork! A thick copper block would be lovely - but not many people have them in their odd and ends box.
     
    Albioninoz likes this.
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