I have been using my welder a few yrs with just the flux wire, but stepped up to co2 because I am working on my car body.
I HAVE to work outside , that being said , I can't seem to get a decent bead going using the gas set-up.
I'm really disappointed , thought it would be easier with gas that seems to be everyone else thought.
My welder has 4 heat settings , 25 ,35 50 & I think 75.
I'm welding usual car thickness , I guess somewhere in the 18-20gauge area.
On 25 & 35 it beads up , so I switched to 50 & seems to work better , but then blows through.
I'm sure I need to practice more , but shouldn't I be able to use the lower setting for sheetmetal ?
Also , How much does wind matter when welding outside ?
As an after thought , it is a harbor freight machine , but it's one of there better ones. From what I can see , most of the cheaper ones even from BIG NAME companies only have minimal settings just like this one does.
I was thinking of stepping up (?) to a clarke 130 ( actually a craftsman made by clarke-it's identical to the clark , but painted red !)
thanks
I HAVE to work outside , that being said , I can't seem to get a decent bead going using the gas set-up.
I'm really disappointed , thought it would be easier with gas that seems to be everyone else thought.
My welder has 4 heat settings , 25 ,35 50 & I think 75.
I'm welding usual car thickness , I guess somewhere in the 18-20gauge area.
On 25 & 35 it beads up , so I switched to 50 & seems to work better , but then blows through.
I'm sure I need to practice more , but shouldn't I be able to use the lower setting for sheetmetal ?
Also , How much does wind matter when welding outside ?
As an after thought , it is a harbor freight machine , but it's one of there better ones. From what I can see , most of the cheaper ones even from BIG NAME companies only have minimal settings just like this one does.
I was thinking of stepping up (?) to a clarke 130 ( actually a craftsman made by clarke-it's identical to the clark , but painted red !)
thanks