New to me - Colchester Triumph

[Hood]

The Triumph manual I got from Usinages says it's just a leadscrew disconnect. Likely there are several versions of the machine though the manual is for Clausing Colchester.

That may just be the imperial only box version, likely if it is Clausing. Thus lever is engaged or disengaged as no metric setting.

 

[Hood]

If you look at the upper feed chart it has metric but the lower one is imperial only.

 

[Pete.]

That may just be the imperial only box version, likely if it is Clausing. Thus lever is engaged or disengaged as no metric setting.

Oh I think you're right it doesn't have the metric entries in the chart as posted above.

That would be handy having inch/metric switching on the lever.

 

[Hood]

Also if my memory is correct the surfacing and sliding speeds (thou per rev) are just used in connection with levers 1, 2 and 5 and you have lever 3 in neutral as you are not using the lead screw.

EDIT.

The sliding surfacing is actually displayed in inch per rev, so for example levers 1 and 2 in D and A, lever 3 in Neutral and lever 5 in position 3 you would have .011 ipr.

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Really impressed with progress tonight with taking out the taper , started today with a 0.3mm taper over 6". First to get most of the taper out I decided to use a old hydraulic ram as I don't have a proper ground bar I used a mic on the hydraulic bar and was within 0.01 over the length so was good enough for rough alignment imo

So just chucked it up then got the back alignment bolts sorted so they where parallel then it would just pivot from the front that was far easier to access as the back bolts where underneath this

Then 6 headstock bolts where loosened off to allow it to move 3 on the front and 3 on the back above the motor. That lets the headstock pivot on with the adjustment bolts shown previous

Ajustment bolts same on each side

Then ram chucked up and dial guage set so I could see what my adjustments where doing then it took some fine tuning running up and down the bar bringing it into 0.01 over 6" however unknown straightness of the bar it was scrap from a plant fitter just know the diameter is the same.

Then gears on the back are put on so can run the power feed again and quick test before heading in for the night , really impressed with that getting 0.03mm to 0.02mm over 6" for a little work and fiddling getting quite close in. Waiting for the machine level to arrive before trying to get better than that as I know its builders level so cant be really far out but worth sorting before final alignment.

Regarding the feeds per rev, you would likely have lever 3 in the neutral position as it will not be using the leadscrew but rather the feed shaft.

I must apologise I put the table in but forgot to include the fact there is indeed the lever 3 that is either METRIC , ENGLISH or Neutral

And yes I haven't tried the threading function yet just been using the feed shaft with the threading off in neutral as I understand you are meant to do when not using the threading capability

@Pete. here is the lever very handy indeed just been left in neutral but I do need to get around to trying threading I have the tools and tips but suppose I'll get the taper sorted first.

Also if my memory is correct the surfacing and sliding speeds (thou per rev) are just used in connection with levers 1, 2 and 5 and you have lever 3 in neutral as you are not using the lead screw.

EDIT.

The sliding surfacing is actually displayed in inch per rev, so for example levers 1 and 2 in D and A, lever 3 in Neutral and lever 5 in position 3 you would have .011 ipr.

Thanks for that hood makes far sense now I was looking at the TPI thinking that was thou per revolution and wondering why it was feeding so fast when on low lol

Also easier to see on the machine the metric pitches are in red so clear it was just the black being TPI and inch per rev that confused me however now see that is the top line of the tables

 

[Hood]

Some over hang on your post ,

just did a quick vid to show there is no issue with the overhang, just mild steel but first two cuts are 2mm DOC (4mm dia), last is 3mm DOC (6mm dia).

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Pushing the lathe some more tonight after really snugging down the tailstock made a good difference in the finish however still some line marks even on the shiner deeper cut same lines as light DOC

Far lighter lines than I was getting before but stuff annoying me and not quite right think it could be the play in the cross slide as it's quite a movement which may be due to me rebuilding it oiling it all alot more free now need to take up the slop

Here is the video of the play looks about 0.15 which I am thinking if it's taking a cut and moving about that might not be helping
https://youtube.com/shorts/IhWCSxOOgSA?feature=share

Think I should be tightening this nut down the big one? , but not sure how to tighten without just spining the whole cross slide and sliding it forwards lol

 

[Kram]

That play is normal when the screw is not preloaded, mine is much worse!
Check the gib adjusters along the tailstock side of cross slide.

What grade of steel are you using? Some, mild can be horrible to get a nice finish and often changes along the length. Carbon, alloy or sulphur based free machining steels are very nice.

 

[Lewis_RX8]

That play is normal when the screw is not preloaded, mine is much worse!
Check the gib adjusters along the tailstock side of cross slide.

What grade of steel are you using? Some, mild can be horrible to get a nice finish and often changes along the length. Carbon, alloy or sulphur based free machining steels are very nice.

ahright wasn't sure cheers won't try to tighten it out then lol ,Just some mild bar annoying me is the lines and what is causing there would just like a nice even finish if it isn't a mirror.

Never turned any fancy steel like that suppose if I learnt on the crap stuff will be even better on decent stock

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Driving myself mental with the level tonight

confusing having 6 adjusting bolt feet rather than 4 and changing ones like to throw off the other axis so but managed to get down within under one division tonight so will let it settle and have another go tomorrow with really small movements on the jacking bolts.

Getting there looking forward to finishing off the alignment and setup process

 

[Kram]

I havent watched it recently enough to remember, but JP has a video on leveling and his are usually very good. I'll try to watch tomorrow, mine almost certainly needs adjusting. Here,

 

[fizzy]

Don't worry about it being level front to back. It is twist you need to eliminate - and with a short bed version I bet there is almost none.
You need to set up a set of parallels to bridge the Vee and measure across the bed.
As to the finish you are getting I always struggled on steel until I bought the tool I linked to.
Oh except for the other night when I took silly depths of cut!

 

[fizzy]

Cross slide play goes away with heavy cuts. And those chips should be chips not long stringy bits - so play around with different tool tips.

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Don't worry about it being level front to back. It is twist you need to eliminate - and with a short bed version I bet there is almost none.
You need to set up a set of parallels to bridge the Vee and measure across the bed.
As to the finish you are getting I always struggled on steel until I bought the tool I linked to.
Oh except for the other night when I took silly depths of cut!

Yup dont think there will be loads as you say but want to get headstock aligned as close as I can so best to eliminate any other small variables by leveling properly

Was following this in the manual and yea been using the parralels as it seems have a speical colchester tool in the pic i dont have so parrallels will do

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Finishing the Lathe leveling should be good down to within 10-20 arc seconds which I am happy with untill I get my hands on some metrology gear levels lol.

Then done the test cut to see if it had changed alignment at all and it did shift it 0.02 taper however luckily in the direction of error from before so the taper is now 0.01 mm over 6 inchs / 150mm and I have not touched the alignment bolts since the builders level setup so glad it has worked in my favour.

Did as @fizzy reccomended and did the dumbbell type test which may have also influenced the measurements so thanks for the heads-up on that

Only problem is struggling with running out of resolution on my measuring tools lol 0.01mm micrometers is the best I have for this size however got a pair of 0-25 Vernier mics that go down to 0.002mm so may have to have a play with smaller stock to use them but it could bend easier I suppose so not sure

 

[fizzy]

I wish you would use imperial. I can much better understand. 001" or a thou!
Going to have to fit a dro to my new CVA it has metric dials
On my boat I have the depth sounder calibrated in fathoms. I bet not many use that any more

 

[fizzy]

Looks like you are getting half a thou. Should be fine now!
Not bad old lathes are they

 

[Lewis_RX8]

I wish you would use imperial. I can much better understand. 001" or a thou!
Going to have to fit a dro to my new CVA it has metric dials
On my boat I have the depth sounder calibrated in fathoms. I bet not many use that any more

I have dual dials on the triumph so can use whatever I am feeling on the day or specific to the job it's ideal

Just for you looks about half a thou or 5 tenths

Not sure if worth adjusting a tad to get it out scared I'll make it worse lol but just want that perfection

 

[fizzy]

I would leave it until you get one of those ultra sharp tools to rule out spring.

 

[Munkul]

Metric mics are fine, you can eyeball 0.005mm resolution between graduations which is more than you'll ever need to work to... 0.1mm taper is good enough if you can't get it any better. Its as likely to be wear in the ways as much as anything else.
0.005mm is just under 2 tenths in bananas, that's well enough accuracy for anything other than watch making!