Misterg
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Was contemplating doing the same.
- Thread starter Misterg
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Was contemplating doing the same.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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The panel connecting bolts run parallel to the walls so it's very easy to remove a nut and add a bracket. At the time Compton's supplied brackets so I just used theirs. I added studs (50mm) and insulation...then a membrane followed by the ply.
The panels are sealed to the base with mastic...then they added a fillet of cement to the inside.
I painted the floor with 2 part epoxy. The only issue I've had with water is the gutters overflowing...solved by lowering the gutters and adding down pipes for all the corners.
Misterg
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It happened:
The existing corrugated iron shed was stripped and the timber frame taken down and burned (it was riddled with woodworm). Someone wanted the sheets, so they were taken off quite carefully - reciprocating saw was ace for this.
The site, before any groundwork:
I got a local contractor to do the bulk of the ground work and lay the concrete:
Levelled, sub base down and formwork going up:
Garage base poured (there is a DPM under & rebar inside):
Apron poured and contractor off site (they did come back for the pile of trash):
I then dug the 'Great Trench of North Wales' - ~25m long x 500mm deep. I wasn't sure what was underneath, and didn't want the digger chewing up what passes as a lawn, so dug it by hand over a few days, with help(?) from my beautiful assistant:
Laid 10mm^2 SWA back to the house
I finished off around the slab myself - paving slabs around two sides and a 'sleeper' retaining wall (They're treated softwood, not real sleepers. I did cover the backs with bitumen paint, and lined them with roofing felt, but I still don't have great hopes for their longevity.)
All ready for the Big Day when the garage would be delivered.
The existing corrugated iron shed was stripped and the timber frame taken down and burned (it was riddled with woodworm). Someone wanted the sheets, so they were taken off quite carefully - reciprocating saw was ace for this.
The site, before any groundwork:
I got a local contractor to do the bulk of the ground work and lay the concrete:
Levelled, sub base down and formwork going up:
Garage base poured (there is a DPM under & rebar inside):
Apron poured and contractor off site (they did come back for the pile of trash):
I then dug the 'Great Trench of North Wales' - ~25m long x 500mm deep. I wasn't sure what was underneath, and didn't want the digger chewing up what passes as a lawn, so dug it by hand over a few days, with help(?) from my beautiful assistant:
Laid 10mm^2 SWA back to the house
I finished off around the slab myself - paving slabs around two sides and a 'sleeper' retaining wall (They're treated softwood, not real sleepers. I did cover the backs with bitumen paint, and lined them with roofing felt, but I still don't have great hopes for their longevity.)
All ready for the Big Day when the garage would be delivered.
Misterg
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The big day came (I ordered it in early October, and it was delivered late January). I expected them to turn up at the crack of dawn and be working all day - they arrived at about 10:30 and took about 3 1/2 hours from start to finish.
(I don't know who does their RAMS)
Overall, I am very pleased with the way it looks (considering its a prefab) and it seems to fit into the surroundings quite well. It's certainly tidied up that end of the garden.
Will say something about lining, etc. later...
(I don't know who does their RAMS)
Overall, I am very pleased with the way it looks (considering its a prefab) and it seems to fit into the surroundings quite well. It's certainly tidied up that end of the garden.
Will say something about lining, etc. later...
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I have more or less the same garage...been up about 15 years...still very happy with it.
Mine came with clips to attach battens for lining.
Only issue I have is head height...wish I had built a block wall to raise the garage but that would have req planning.
Just can't beat prefab for speed I think.
Mine came with clips to attach battens for lining.
Only issue I have is head height...wish I had built a block wall to raise the garage but that would have req planning.
Just can't beat prefab for speed I think.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I tend to agree... Mine has been felt and battened...but I went for the metal roof that looks like ceramic tiles so bit different.
Could always replace with insulated metal roof panels I reckon.
Misterg
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Thanks - I ran a fillet of strong mortar (mixed with SBR) around the inside of the walls and across the thresholds to seal it to the base. It leaked like a sieve without.
Misterg
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In hindsight, I would have tried to change it to a steel roof, both for durability and security.
If/when it starts leaking (or maybe before) I may well change it to steel sheets. I think it would be fairly easy to do from above.
Misterg
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I wanted to line the walls so that it was easier to fix stuff to them, and it would allow a bit of thermal / noise insulation behind it. The garage it made up of 2' wide slabs, which is handy for lining with 'real' 8' x 4' sheets since the edges of the sheets always fall on a joint in the garage where it is easier to fix a batten. Happily, OSB comes in 1220mm (4') width. It would be a nightmare to try and use 1200mm wide sheets (would need a different approach).
The garage manufactures sell brackets that fit onto the bolts holding the garage sections together to secure battens for lining, but they are eye-wateringly expensive. Hanson want £30 for 12 - I needed somewhere between 70 and 100!
I ended up using these Screwfix angle brackets (£1.49 for 10):
Needed to drill one of the holes out to 6mm (easy and quick using a pillar drill) and then they fit onto the bolts holding the sections together (there are three per section for most of the joints, only two for others):
They're then easy enough to bend out to the correct angle to screw to the edge of a batten:
The battens (25 x 50 slate battens) were also fixed to the concrete walls with construction adhesive, so the brackets are really only needed to keep them in place while the glue sets / act as a bit of insurance. It took ~80m of batten to put uprights at 2' intervals around the inside.
For the wall insulation, I used 50mm mineral wool (acoustic insulation). It won't be great thermally, but will be better than nothing, and I hope will be better at sound deadening than something like Celotex (and won't rot if it gets damp). It will be compressed to 25mm near the battens and where the ribs are on the concrete panels. C'est la vie...
It would just about hold itself in position, wedged between the battens:
I fitted a polythene vapour barrier and then 18mm OSB over the top:
Two packs of insulation was *just* enough to do the walls, and it took 14 sheets of OSB. I had some concerns about whether the insulation wool might sag over time, but after the OSB is on, I don't think it's going anywhere. Both the OSB and the battens are clear of the floor to try and stop damp.
I gave it a couple of coats of masonry paint to brighten it up and cracked on with the electrics
From left to right:
Lighting / dedicated compressor supply on a 16A type C breaker / 16 Amp commando sockets / 13A sockets (radial with 3 arms)
Lighting is 6 off Aurora EN-BA1243/40 BatPac Pro 43w 4ft LED Batten fittings at 5200 lumens each. I have to say I'm delighted with them - they feel nice and sturdy, easy to install and give a very bright and well diffused light. Lighting level is excellent, IMHO.
With the lights wired, I could fit the ceiling insulation. It is just 25mm foiled PIR (Celotex) wedged between the purlins. The edges and joints are all taped to act as a vapour barrier, and to help keep them in place. I did this in the knowledge that it might trap leaks from the roof - I will just have to be vigilant. 13 sheets of Celotex was enough to do the ceiling, 'gables' and inside of the metal doors. I might add something as a ceiling at some point (11mm OSB??), but for now, I'll see how well the insulation board fares without anything additional.
There is a ventilation space between the insulation and the roofing sheets - I paid almost £50 for some eaves filler pieces to discourage birds, etc. from getting into this space, but when they turned up, it was just laser cut foam (that should have cost pennies!) I've fitted it, but am idly looking for something better.
As per my post in the 'what did you make today' thread, I still want to paint the floor, but I want to use the space to fix the holes in my MX-5 and get it MOT'd first.
As Aristotle once said: "Nature abhors an empty garage..."
The garage manufactures sell brackets that fit onto the bolts holding the garage sections together to secure battens for lining, but they are eye-wateringly expensive. Hanson want £30 for 12 - I needed somewhere between 70 and 100!
I ended up using these Screwfix angle brackets (£1.49 for 10):
Needed to drill one of the holes out to 6mm (easy and quick using a pillar drill) and then they fit onto the bolts holding the sections together (there are three per section for most of the joints, only two for others):
They're then easy enough to bend out to the correct angle to screw to the edge of a batten:
The battens (25 x 50 slate battens) were also fixed to the concrete walls with construction adhesive, so the brackets are really only needed to keep them in place while the glue sets / act as a bit of insurance. It took ~80m of batten to put uprights at 2' intervals around the inside.
For the wall insulation, I used 50mm mineral wool (acoustic insulation). It won't be great thermally, but will be better than nothing, and I hope will be better at sound deadening than something like Celotex (and won't rot if it gets damp). It will be compressed to 25mm near the battens and where the ribs are on the concrete panels. C'est la vie...
It would just about hold itself in position, wedged between the battens:
I fitted a polythene vapour barrier and then 18mm OSB over the top:
Two packs of insulation was *just* enough to do the walls, and it took 14 sheets of OSB. I had some concerns about whether the insulation wool might sag over time, but after the OSB is on, I don't think it's going anywhere. Both the OSB and the battens are clear of the floor to try and stop damp.
I gave it a couple of coats of masonry paint to brighten it up and cracked on with the electrics
From left to right:
Lighting / dedicated compressor supply on a 16A type C breaker / 16 Amp commando sockets / 13A sockets (radial with 3 arms)
Lighting is 6 off Aurora EN-BA1243/40 BatPac Pro 43w 4ft LED Batten fittings at 5200 lumens each. I have to say I'm delighted with them - they feel nice and sturdy, easy to install and give a very bright and well diffused light. Lighting level is excellent, IMHO.
With the lights wired, I could fit the ceiling insulation. It is just 25mm foiled PIR (Celotex) wedged between the purlins. The edges and joints are all taped to act as a vapour barrier, and to help keep them in place. I did this in the knowledge that it might trap leaks from the roof - I will just have to be vigilant. 13 sheets of Celotex was enough to do the ceiling, 'gables' and inside of the metal doors. I might add something as a ceiling at some point (11mm OSB??), but for now, I'll see how well the insulation board fares without anything additional.
There is a ventilation space between the insulation and the roofing sheets - I paid almost £50 for some eaves filler pieces to discourage birds, etc. from getting into this space, but when they turned up, it was just laser cut foam (that should have cost pennies!) I've fitted it, but am idly looking for something better.
As per my post in the 'what did you make today' thread, I still want to paint the floor, but I want to use the space to fix the holes in my MX-5 and get it MOT'd first.
As Aristotle once said: "Nature abhors an empty garage..."
Pigeon_Droppings2
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As above...that's exactly what I did too about 15 years ago. My garage supplier threw in the clips for free I think...£30 for 12 is taking the biscuit some what!
Misterg
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I hunted around for the cheapest supplier, and I suspect that little things like supplying the clips or fitting underfelt to the roof are what gets dropped to get the price down.
Blobber
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A nice space 
is this for you to do your arty sculptures?
The smaller corrugated roof sheets don't seem to spilt as bad as the big 6 style, In my old place I used to splosh some thompsons water seal over the roof once a year which seemed to help
is this for you to do your arty sculptures?The smaller corrugated roof sheets don't seem to spilt as bad as the big 6 style, In my old place I used to splosh some thompsons water seal over the roof once a year which seemed to help
Misterg
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Thanks - it's for me to expand my empire of stuff to tinker with. I think you might be getting me confused with @MysterG though!A nice space
The smaller corrugated roof sheets don't seem to spilt as bad as the big 6 style, In my old place I used to splosh some thompsons water seal over the roof once a year which seemed to help
Water-seal on the roof sounds like a good suggestion - thanks.
