Need to have these remade but where?

[RonA]

Hi All,
These are external copper oil suction pipes (1/2” OD) off my old motor. Unlike a modern motor where the oil pump sits in the sump on this engine the oil is sucked from the sump to the oil pump inlet & then boosted through more external pipework to the bearings, etc.
Problem is I suspect the pipes have micro cracks (due to age) leading to loss of suction (as air pulls easier than oil) & could do with replacing.
Anybody suggest somebody capable of replacing the pipes, preferably (but not absolutely essentially) near the North east of England.
Thanks in anticipation.
RonA

 

[Ruffian]

Couldn't a decent plumber just do them for you?

 

[500e]

Ron the the first one you can flair the pipe with simply made dye tool while keeping the pipe malleable, the second seems to have soldered fittings, may be silver soldered.
The last external pipes I did were on a Riley 9 Crank, they used to get bunged up & also fatigue crack, all the pipe work in the motor was as hard as steel, we annealed some & replaced the rest.

 

[RonA]

Couldn't a decent plumber just do them for you?

The bottom one maybe, its the top one thats the real problem the curve is very tight + would a plumber be able to remake the belled ends
RonA

 

[RonA]

Ron the the first one you can flair the pipe with simply made dye tool while keeping the pipe malleable, the second seems to have soldered fittings, may be silver soldered.
The last external pipes I did were on a Riley 9 Crank, they used to get bunged up & also fatigue crack, all the pipe work in the motor was as hard as steel, we annealed some & replaced the rest.

Your right in your guess the fitting is silver soldered. What is the stuff they fill the pipe up with to prevent the walls collapsing called?
RonA

 

[Seadog]

Silver sand

 

[Parm]

I’ve seen it done where the pipe is filled with kiln dried sand and then bunged.

Also seen some aerospace places where they fill the pipe with molten lead.

Finally ive seen some places where they have fancy CNC pipe bending kit, also in the aerospace industry.

If the pipe is cheap, why not have a go yourself, I’d try the sand method first. Maybe leave it long and bung the ends with plumbing fittings then remove once done, cut to length and then flare

 

[RonA]

Silver sand

Seem to remember reading on this forum, proprietary product better than sand or solder?
RonA

 

[RonA]

I’ve seen it done where the pipe is filled with kiln dried sand and then bunged.

Also seen some aerospace places where they fill the pipe with molten lead.

Finally ive seen some places where they have fancy CNC pipe bending kit, also in the aerospace industry.

If the pipe is cheap, why not have a go yourself, I’d try the sand method first. Maybe leave it long and bung the ends with plumbing fittings then remove once done, cut to length and then flare

I had toyed with the idea of doing it myself but at some stage will need to have it silver soldered, so hoping to hand the job over to some company for complete job. Hoping for a bit more professional result than I can/might achieve.
RonA

 

[brightspark]

the oil pipes on my Norton were brass and copper and just soft soldered in give it a scrape with a knife and you will soon tell which

 

[frank horton]

are u sure they are cracked....... a lot of oil pumps that have longer runs on the suction pipes often need help.........
I always pack the pump with Vasaline, this helps them to draw the initial oil up the pipe......sometimes u have to do it 2 -3 times.....
a wet pump often just won't do it initially but then u could get lucky............
the only time I've seen these pipes with problems is that the fitting have seperated.....
hope this helps

 

[500e]

Any model steam people near you they use a lot of pipe & fittings + carry a fair No. of silver solder types\ temps
I would suggest you anneal all the old pipes anyway
One filler is Cerribond think that's how you spell it
@frank horton
We did that with the Rover V8s as well

 

[daedalusminos]

Get them leak tested to determine if you really have a problem.

 

[Cobbler]

We did that with the Rover V8s as well

I built up a Rover 4.6 V8 that's in the garage waiting to be fitted to my sons Landy. I filled the pump with grease, I recalled from many years ago a mate rebuilt a 3.5 V8 & would not raise oil pressure & that was the advice the dealer gave.

 

[Pete.]

Any model steam people near you they use a lot of pipe & fittings + carry a fair No. of silver solder types\ temps
I would suggest you anneal all the old pipes anyway
One filler is Cerribond think that's how you spell it
@frank horton
We did that with the Rover V8s as well

Cerrobend

 

[Shox Dr]

I have some stuff called WS8 its a water soluble resin, becomes a liquid at 70* becoming less viscous upto 150*ish.

Comes as a gain, heat it up in either a proper kettle for the job or over boiling water bain-marie style. Warm the tube/pipe up help esp if small bore. Pour it in then run under cold water. Bend as required.
To remove; heat up or flush with hot water.

Made by John Neale Ltd. they supply Jaguar and RR to name drop.

http://www.johnnealeltd.co.uk/shopresinws8.html

 

[RonA]

are u sure they are cracked....... a lot of oil pumps that have longer runs on the suction pipes often need help.........
I always pack the pump with Vasaline, this helps them to draw the initial oil up the pipe......sometimes u have to do it 2 -3 times.....

Alright if your engine is static but not really practical at the side of the road every time you park up. The engines are noted for oil pressure problems & the pipes are in the region of 84 years old!
RonA

 

[RonA]

I have some stuff called WS8 its a water soluble resin, becomes a liquid at 70* becoming less viscous upto 150*ish.

Comes as a gain, heat it up in either a proper kettle for the job or over boiling water bain-marie style. Warm the tube/pipe up help esp if small bore. Pour it in then run under cold water. Bend as required.
To remove; heat up or flush with hot water.

Made by John Neale Ltd. they supply Jaguar and RR to name drop.

http://www.johnnealeltd.co.uk/shopresinws8.html

Hi Dr Shox, Had this stuff suggested to me via another source but the W10 version which is supposedly stiffer & more applicable to the pipe size Im working with. Thanks for the info.
RonA

 

[500e]

Ron they are going to be brittle they will have work\heat hardened over years at least anneal better still replace what motor is it

 

[RonA]

Any model steam people near you they use a lot of pipe & fittings + carry a fair No. of silver solder types\ temps
I would suggest you anneal all the old pipes anyway
One filler is Cerribond think that's how you spell it
@frank horton
We did that with the Rover V8s as well

Hi 500e, by sheer co-incidence we have a steam railway soceity in a nearby park, Brightspark will know it. Ill pop down & pick their brains.
RonA