Im in Leyland Adrian, probably only about 15-20 mins away from you. Next time I'm over your way I'll call by. PM your phone number sometime plz.
- Thread starter Bsmith
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Im in Leyland Adrian, probably only about 15-20 mins away from you. Next time I'm over your way I'll call by. PM your phone number sometime plz.
Toleman
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I've got a question which relates so I hope you don't mind a mini hijack. It will save another thread on a similar question.
I have a keyway to cut in a piece of 17mm bright bar. The key is about 20 to 25mm long and 4.7 x 5mm. I'll check again but I'm pretty sure it's the 5mm dimension that's the width so a 5mm cutter I'll use.
First of centring the cut. A chap up the road has a really old milling machine he has said I can use, it has no dro and the dials are pretty rusted over. How do I find the centre avoiding the backlash? Could I use a magnetic dial indicator?
Then levelling the work piece in the vice. I'm not sure I'd feel happy adjusting the bed on somebody else's machine or even know what nuts and bolts to try. I'm hoping a dial indicator again stuck to the head or something solid nearby I can adjust the piece in the vice.
And finally, which cutter should I use, a slot drill or end mill. The depth is half of 4.7mm and again I'll have no easy way of working out depth of cut.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
I have a keyway to cut in a piece of 17mm bright bar. The key is about 20 to 25mm long and 4.7 x 5mm. I'll check again but I'm pretty sure it's the 5mm dimension that's the width so a 5mm cutter I'll use.
First of centring the cut. A chap up the road has a really old milling machine he has said I can use, it has no dro and the dials are pretty rusted over. How do I find the centre avoiding the backlash? Could I use a magnetic dial indicator?
Then levelling the work piece in the vice. I'm not sure I'd feel happy adjusting the bed on somebody else's machine or even know what nuts and bolts to try. I'm hoping a dial indicator again stuck to the head or something solid nearby I can adjust the piece in the vice.
And finally, which cutter should I use, a slot drill or end mill. The depth is half of 4.7mm and again I'll have no easy way of working out depth of cut.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
slim_boy_fat
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it depends on the design of the keyway and the design of the milling cutter.
traditionally a slot drill had two flutes and the cutting edges join at the centre so they can be be plunged into the metal and cut a flat bottomed hole. end mills traditionally have 4 flutes and the cutting edge doesn't go to the middle of the cutter so they can't be plunged into metal to cut flat bottomed hole. these days you can get 3 and 4 flute cutters with at least one cutting edge going to the centre, so they can be plunged into metal.
if the slot it closed at both ends you need a cutter that can be plunged, if one end is in the open you can use an end mill, but the depth of cut will need to be increased in the open. with a slot drill you can increase the cut at either end of the slot.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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Not quite accurate, the cutting lips are asymmetric with the longer one crossing through the centre point. If not you'd still have a dead area.
yup, you're right
I know I was going to say "one flute over centre" but thought that might make it sound more complicated
Toleman
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It's a vertical mill, the keyway is for a woodruff key into the end of the axle.
If you've seen my project thread, it's a 17mm bright steel axle with a keyway for a mobility scooter wheel.
I'll take a look at those videos when I get an hour. Cheers
If you've seen my project thread, it's a 17mm bright steel axle with a keyway for a mobility scooter wheel.
I'll take a look at those videos when I get an hour. Cheers
slim_boy_fat
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Sounds like your workpiece will be too big for the Tubalcain method, unless you have access to a large lathe.
@gaz1 photo's for ya. A very simple build copied from one of your videos.
Piece of 50 x 50mm angle with a flat piece of 15mm thick to go in the toolpost welded on the edge of the angle, couple of bits of flat tacked on the ends of the angle to support g clamps.
Centred by pressing the 2 pieces together with the cross slide on a shaft between the chuck and tailstock, then tack welded while in position in the lathe. (dont have a photo of this).
Shaft clamped in the attachment and drill bit in the lathe chuck.
Ready to drill hole through shaft. I don't have any milling cutters yet.
I can imagine the g clamps being in the way at times, could maybe support with smaller angle facing other angle and strong hose clips.
.6mm dia drill bit.
That's good enough for me. Thank you for the vids and suggestion in the first place.
gaz1
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nice to see that its been made up and also tried out
toleman i took a nosey at the video before posting it as ive got the horizontal one as well nice easy reference to it
but i bet you could do the same with the vertical mill with the same reference
toleman i took a nosey at the video before posting it as ive got the horizontal one as well nice easy reference to it
but i bet you could do the same with the vertical mill with the same reference
Parm
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That's a neat little project, one I'm going to shamelessly add to my list of things to do
@gaz1 Got the milling cutters from China and decided to have a go. Dead chuffed with the result.
Setting up with 6mm cutter
cutting 6mm keyway
piece of 6mm key in the slot, seems good to me, quite a tight fit @optima21, better than expected.
Cutting a 3mm keyway.
Cutting 20 thou deep per pass.
Some pics a bit outa focus sorry to say.
Setting up with 6mm cutter
cutting 6mm keyway
piece of 6mm key in the slot, seems good to me, quite a tight fit @optima21, better than expected.
Cutting a 3mm keyway.
Cutting 20 thou deep per pass.
Some pics a bit outa focus sorry to say.
addjunkie
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If your not sure of the mill and its old Id use an under sized cutter, if its not running true with a 5 mm end mill youll get a wider slot than 5 mm.
Set up the shaft in the vice or v blocks, use the disl gauge to check its level, also use it on the side to make sure your shaft is parrallel to the traverse of the table.
Centering..if the dials as you say are shot...use two blocks or small squares, slide up to either side of the shaft and measure the gap. Your center is half way between.
Or using a dti, the highest point going side to side.
addjunkie
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Nice work, but your right milling is boring in a lathe or on a mill. Ive bisshed up a few things with not quite focusing on what im doing as i was bored
