My recent breakdown and OBD codes

[Smallfry]

As outlined in my recent other thread, my Renault Master cut out, and would not restart.

Got it home last night, but had a look this morning in between the rain showers. First thing was to check the camshaft belt wasn't broken, but its fine.

Could not find anything else obviously wrong. There is an inertia cutout switch which operates in even of a collision, and that is fine.

These had a rubber/plastic primer bulb in the fuel line, which is used after a filter change. They double as a non return valve. These are notoriously unreliable, and split crack or pinhole, allowing an air leak, and causing the fuel in the line to return to the tank, which will cause no start after engine has been stopped. There is no lift pump, either mechanical or electrical, and the setup requires the high pressure pump to feed itself, but generally if the leak occurs while the engine is running, the engine will stay running unless really bad.
I noticed that there was no fuel in the clear feed pipe, so pumped it back up with the primer bulb, and after a bit of cranking the engine started ! Which is good. I stopped the engine, to see if the fuel would gradually return down the pipe, but at the moment it is staying where it is. I have tried starting the engine again, which it does, but only after a fair bit of cranking, so I suspect this may have something to do with it.

I connected the van up to my diagnostics to see there were any clues. It threw up a few codes, but all marked as Not Present, apart from one, which has been there ever since I have had the van.

What I wanted to know for now though, was about the list of codes displayed. They are in a drop down list, so is the last occurring fault at the top of the list, or at the bottom ? Or are they random ? They are NOT in numerical order.

 

[carbon]

If fuel is visibly dropping in the clear feed pipe Id be looking at the fuel system to check for leaks either air getting in or fuel leaking out before looking at fault codes.

 

[BrokenBiker]

As outlined in my recent other thread, my Renault Master cut out, and would not restart.

Got it home last night, but had a look this morning in between the rain showers. First thing was to check the camshaft belt wasn't broken, but its fine.

Could not find anything else obviously wrong. There is an inertia cutout switch which operates in even of a collision, and that is fine.

These had a rubber/plastic primer bulb in the fuel line, which is used after a filter change. They double as a non return valve. These are notoriously unreliable, and split crack or pinhole, allowing an air leak, and causing the fuel in the line to return to the tank, which will cause no start after engine has been stopped. There is no lift pump, either mechanical or electrical, and the setup requires the high pressure pump to feed itself, but generally if the leak occurs while the engine is running, the engine will stay running unless really bad.
I noticed that there was no fuel in the clear feed pipe, so pumped it back up with the primer bulb, and after a bit of cranking the engine started ! Which is good. I stopped the engine, to see if the fuel would gradually return down the pipe, but at the moment it is staying where it is. I have tried starting the engine again, which it does, but only after a fair bit of cranking, so I suspect this may have something to do with it.

I connected the van up to my diagnostics to see there were any clues. It threw up a few codes, but all marked as Not Present, apart from one, which has been there ever since I have had the van.

What I wanted to know for now though, was about the list of codes displayed. They are in a drop down list, so is the last occurring fault at the top of the list, or at the bottom ? Or are they random ? They are NOT in numerical order.

codes will be in whatever orde your diagnostics deems they need to be...mine will show me all historic and pending before current faults.

as for the fuel issue, the 1 way valve may be shot and slowly letting fuel run back, or you may have a leak in the system pre-priming bulb, i had this on a hyundai, the pipes in the tank were shot and would occasionally let air into the lines causing the fuel before the filter to run back, so it would fire but then once the filter was empty would cut out and wouldnt prime again (i had no priming pump or bulb) so worth checking everything from the in tank lines to the priming bulb

 

[Blobber]

What engine & year is the van?

 

[Smallfry]

If fuel is visibly dropping in the clear feed pipe Id be looking at the fuel system to check for leaks either air getting in or fuel leaking out before looking at fault codes.

I pumped the fuel back up with the primer bulb. The engine starts, but takes a lot longer to crank than normal now. There is a very slight weep on the primer bulb though. I have been keeping an eye on it all day, expecting the level to drop again, but at the moment, it seems to be staying where it is

One of the "Not present" codes, is for the clutch pedal switch. I am not even sure if it has one ? In any case, I thought that was only for cruise control, or one of the vehicles that needs the pedal pressed in order to start, and my van has neither of these.

 

[BrokenBiker]

I pumped the fuel back up with the primer bulb. The engine starts, but takes a lot longer to crank than normal now. There is a very slight weep on the primer bulb though. I have been keeping an eye on it all day, expecting the level to drop again, but at the moment, it seems to be staying where it is

One of the "Not present" codes, is for the clutch pedal switch. I am not even sure if it has one ? In any case, I thought that was only for cruise control, or one of the vehicles that needs the pedal pressed in order to start, and my van has neither of these.

is it common rail? ive had faults on common rails from very minor weeps in the past

 

[Smallfry]

What engine & year is the van?

Its a 2006 reg Renault Master. I have had it for over 10 years, at it is the first time it has failed to proceed, the only other running fault I had, was when one of the air pipes blew off the intercooler. Was very obvious !

Problem was that the hoseclip had disappeared somewhere. I had to drive it home smokily and slowly. Its amazing how much difference the turbocharger makes !

 

[Smallfry]

is it common rail? ive had faults on common rails from very minor weeps in the past

Yes, common rail. Great when its working OK, but a PIA otherwise.

Re the codes order, I am assuming the bottom one on the list of four is the latest, which would make sense as it to do with the rail pressure sensor, which of course would drop if the fuel supply had stopped.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Yes, common rail. Great when its working OK, but a PIA otherwise.

Re the codes order, I am assuming the bottom one on the list of four is the latest, which would make sense as it to do with the rail pressure sensor, which of course would drop if the fuel supply had stopped.

yes that would make sense, i know on my merc vito i had a very tiny lack of seal on a leak off pipe and it just cut out on me with rail pressure codes, also my terracan used to run like a dog becasue of the holes in the in tank lines, and my fathers jag was an absolute pig to start after we had the injectors out becasue it wouldnt shift the air and being button start it would cut out just as it was on the verge of kicking over...then back to square one again.

 

[Smallfry]

codes will be in whatever orde your diagnostics deems they need to be...mine will show me all historic and pending before current faults.

as for the fuel issue, the 1 way valve may be shot and slowly letting fuel run back, or you may have a leak in the system pre-priming bulb, i had this on a hyundai, the pipes in the tank were shot and would occasionally let air into the lines causing the fuel before the filter to run back, so it would fire but then once the filter was empty would cut out and wouldnt prime again (i had no priming pump or bulb) so worth checking everything from the in tank lines to the priming bulb

I did replace the fuel pipe from tank to filter a few years ago. It included the primer bulb all in one unit. I had heard these primers can be a problem, so renewed it as a precaution when I dropped the tank to create an independent supply for the Webasto parking heater.

I am thinking about replacing the primer with a Facet electric pump now.

 

[Smallfry]

yes that would make sense, i know on my merc vito i had a very tiny lack of seal on a leak off pipe and it just cut out on me with rail pressure codes, also my terracan used to run like a dog becasue of the holes in the in tank lines, and my fathers jag was an absolute pig to start after we had the injectors out becasue it wouldnt shift the air and being button start it would cut out just as it was on the verge of kicking over...then back to square one again.

I assume you mean the Highandry Terracan ?

These things can certainly be frustrating, to say the least, especially when its all down to a little O ring.

One of my colleagues had a Ford C Max, or D Max, cant remember, but you could see big air bubbles going through the feed pipe to the filter. He spent loads of time and a fair few quid trying to cure it, and never could. Scrapped it in the end because of it.

 

[BrokenBiker]

I assume you mean the Highandry Terracan ?

These things can certainly be frustrating, to say the least, especially when its all down to a little O ring.

One of my colleagues had a Ford C Max, or D Max, cant remember, but you could see big ait bubbles going through the feed pipe to the filter. He spent loads of time and a fair few quid trying to cure it, and never could. Scrapped it in the end because of it.

yes, with the 2.9crdi in it...lovely car to drive, brilliant off road in standard format but dear god that engine was terrible. i had it 18 months and put 4 sets of injectors in it, had to replace the fuel lines in the tank sender unit, replace the leak off pipes, a rail pressure sensor, 3 of the 4 injector pipes, and then just when i thought it was running fine we took a holiday to paington, it was spot on driving down there, fine all week then the moment we packed up to leave it took nearly 2 hours to get it started, blew smoke out the exhaust all the way home adn cut out 150 yards from the house...bought the jag the next day and some guy bought it off ebay a few weeks later, came dwon with a trailer and took it away...it appears to have been scrapped about 2 months later

 

[Smallfry]

yes, with the 2.9crdi in it...lovely car to drive, brilliant off road in standard format but dear god that engine was terrible. i had it 18 months and put 4 sets of injectors in it, had to replace the fuel lines in the tank sender unit, replace the leak off pipes, a rail pressure sensor, 3 of the 4 injector pipes, and then just when i thought it was running fine we took a holiday to paington, it was spot on driving down there, fine all week then the moment we packed up to leave it took nearly 2 hours to get it started, blew smoke out the exhaust all the way home adn cut out 150 yards from the house...bought the jag the next day and some guy bought it off ebay a few weeks later, came dwon with a trailer and took it away...it appears to have been scrapped about 2 months later

That must have been gutting. I guess the buyer couldn't sort it either, unless they just wanted it for spares.

Now that my van is starting, without me actually doing or replacing anything, I am worried that is it going to end up as one of these untraceable intermittent faults that mean you can no longer trust the vehicle.

 

[BrokenBiker]

That must have been gutting. I guess the buyer couldn't sort it either, unless they just wanted it for spares.

Now that my van is starting, without me actually doing or replacing anything, I am worried that is it going to end up as one of these untraceable intermittent faults that mean you can no longer trust the vehicle.

he came down in a land cruiser to take it away, said he wanted it as a sort of running project, although no matter how many times i told him it doesnt run as it wasnt building fuel pressure he kept asking about starting it to drive it on the trailer, so i pulled a few tricks and got it running, barely, and it cut out while idling on the trailer with the usual distinctive crunch sound it used to so signifying that it had just gulped a bucket full of air into the rail...he seemed to think it just needed fresh diesel and a new battery i gave him the set of injectors i hadnt long pulled out of it so he could have them refurbed becasue it was going to need a set, and gave him a new fuel filter, priming tool i had made, new tank sender unit, the remaining new injector pipe and a new rail pressure sensor...that surely should have been enough of a hint that this needed more than fresh diesel...but he still took it away thinking it was going to be a relaible car.

as for the trust issue, that is exactly why i am weighing the jag in. kept getting DPF faults on the dash and limp mode, but live data showed no DPF blockage, also no stored codes at all relating to DPF...but it did have codes active for gearbox fail to neutral and it would occasionally just be stone dead in the morning, but as soon as you hook jump leads to it there would be a click and it was back to life and would start without the leads conencted, so it had to go...im just doing battle with the boot at the moment as ive got a volvo coach half shaft in there and a few tools, and now the boot wont open so its meeting the grinder tomorrow after my tattoo

 

[indy4x]

The code readers I have tell me the number of times the fault has occurred and the dates and times

But, they are usually vehicle specific so probably give more info

We also have a 2005 Master, 180k on the clock, as was to be expected there were quite a few bodges. Ours was missing the priming bulb and instead had a non return valve that mostly worked. When I serviced it and changed the diesel filter I did replace the non return valve with a generic priming bulb. Post filter change it did suffer with excessive cranking before it would start and I put it down to air in the system after the filter and priming bulb change. After letting it tick over while squeezing the priming bulb to clear the air bubbles its been fine

 

[Turbo]

Check the fuel filter housing for cracks or leaks. Common enough issue on HDI peugeots from the same era with plastic fuel filter housings.

 

[Wedg1e]

Had a starting issue with a previous company Connect: would fire up with an enthusiastic burst of Easystart but once stopped for more than a few seconds it wouldn't restart no matter how long you cranked.
The local Ford dealers couldn't find an obvious fault but thought it might have been porosity in the fuel lines allowing air in and causing the fuel to drain back to tank.
We 'fixed' it by simply part-exing for another van